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IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK (specially written por the press.) [By W. J. HUMMJ VEGETABLES In most localities the soil is in a fit condition for the sowing and planting of most vegetable crops. Parsnips and onions should be got in at once. Plant second early potatoes, mould up the early varieties as soon as they are high enough. It is advisable to procure sets of the main crop potatoes now. Plant cabbage, cauliflowers, lettuce, and artichokes. Sow celery and leek seed. Do not make the mistake of sowing the seeds too thickly. ■ Continue to sow second early peas. As soon as the plants are about three inches high they should be moulded up and staked. Peas must have the maximum amount of sunlight and air on both sides of the plant. By staking peas as soon as they are large enough the plants make better growth, are more productive, the peas are a better flavour, and are easier to gather. To maintain a constant supply of fresh vegetables make sowings of lettuce, radish, turnips, beet, and carrots. It is a mistake to sow large quantities of vegetables at one sowing when they may be grown successively. The carrot is a most wholesome and nutritious vegetable, and is particularly rich in vitamins. Carrots are easy to grow, and if used when half grown they are very tender and much sweeter in flavour than if left until fully developed. In warm localities tomato plants may be planted out. but where the soil is of a cold nature and subjected to late frost the end of October will be early enough to plant. When preparing the soil for this crop do not use animal manures to excess, especially if the land is of a heavy nature. The correct time to give tire plant assistance is when the second set of fruit is formed. It the right kind of manure is given then it will aid the plains in the production of fruit. To produce a good crop of tomatoes hoe tiie soil often. On no account should cold artesian water be given to the plants. Always give water which has been warmed by sun heat. Keeping the soil warm is essential to the well being of the plants. Keep the hoe going constantly through all growing crops. FLOWERS A number of hardy annuals useful for cutting and garden decoration may be sown in the open borders, where they will remain until they have flowered. The following are useful for cutting: annual chrysanthemums, clarkias, cornflowers. gypsophila, elegans, godetias, larkspurs, lupins, asters, mignonette, Shirley poppies, and phlox Drummondii. This class of plant is better grown in groups, rather than in straight lines. As soon as the seedlings are large enough they should be thinned out so as to stand about eight inches to a foot apart. Make another sowing of sweet peas. These will produce good flowers for summer and autumn use. Delphiniums are making rapid growth now. They should be staked, and if required for exhibition, the small growths should be thinned out. Polyanthus are flowering well this season. Any of the outstanding blooms should be marked and saved for seed. Polyanthus seed should be sown as soon as ripe. Sow the seed in shallow boxes using plenty of leaf mould and sharp sand in the soil mixture. Place the boxes in a shaded position and as soon as the seedlings are large enough prick off into boxes, placing about 50 plants in each box. Polyanthus and also primroses are not fond of lime, and any manure containing this property should be avoided. Polyanthus should be planted in the autumn. Plant another batch of gladioli now. Dahlias that have been wintered inside are now commencing to grow. They may be taken out and divided. Replant small portions of the tubers which are showing growth. Dahlias that were wintered in the ground may also be taken up, divided, and replanted. In selecting a position for dahlias, see that they are given shelter, but on no account shade, and also keep them a fair distance from tree roots. In heavy land do not make the mistake of adding too much rank manure to the soil A free, warm soil suits the dahlias best, and it is in this class of land that water and liquid manure can be supplied with beneficial effects. In the next few weeks gardeners will be busy planting out bedding plants to make a summer display. The first week in October is early enough to commence this work. Get the soil well worked to receive the plants. In gardens where the soil is of a dry, hungry nature and a summer effect is desired, try geranium, both, the zonal and ivy-leafed sorts, dianthus, petunias, marigolds, antirrhinums, and catmint, as all these plants will thrive and flower in dry, warm soil. Michaelmas daisy plants should have many of their growths thinned out. Perennial phlox are all the better for a good thinning. Many people lift and divide peony roses at this time of the year. This is quite wrong. The correct time to divide and transplant peonies is in autumn, as soon as the leaves turn brown. . , , ~ Any 10-week stocks required should be put in at once. Before planting scatter a little bonemeal through the soil and hoe it in. Old plants of chrysanthemums should be divided up and transplanted. Give them a sunny, warm position, if possible. Plant out pentstemons, pyrethrums, and marguerite carnations.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/CHP19420926.2.14

Bibliographic details

Press, Volume LXXVIII, Issue 23753, 26 September 1942, Page 3

Word Count
915

IN THE GARDEN Press, Volume LXXVIII, Issue 23753, 26 September 1942, Page 3

IN THE GARDEN Press, Volume LXXVIII, Issue 23753, 26 September 1942, Page 3

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