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IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK (SPECIALLY WRITTEN TOR THE PRESS.) tßy W. J. VEGETABLES In most localities the soil is far too wet to permit of any planting or sowing to be done. On heavy soil it will be some time before work can proceed. It is a mistake to work land charged with water. If this -is done it does much harm to the -physical properties of the soil, and when this takes place it takes a long time to get the soil back to fertility.

The main factor in the production of vegetables is deep cultivation. It does not matter what the nature of the soil is, deep cultivation never fails to improve its productiveness. By deep cultivation the soil is aerated to a greater depth. The crops get a better root run, and during periods of drought the soil retains more moisture. After digging deeply, always allow the sou to settle before putting the crop in. Seeds will not germinate freely if the soil is loose and full of air pockets. Although vegetables require a good root run, they will not thrive unless they can obtain good anchorage, and loose soil will not provide this. Only where the soil is of a warm nature should sowing or planting be carried out.

When conditions are favourable, sow early peas to meet the demand. When those sown earlier are well through the ground mould them up. This will steady them, give them root aeration, and provide drainage. Before sowing peas give a dressing of lime at the rate of four ounces to the square yard. When the peas are well up. dust two ounces of superphosphate and half an ounce of sulphate of potash to the square yard. Plant cabbages and cauliflowers. These are gross feeders, and prefer a deep,- well-drained, retentive loam which has received a dressing of welldecayed manure well in advance of planting. All the cabbage family requires a liberal supply of phosphates. A dressing of superphosphate at the rate of two ounces to the square yard will supply this. A little lime dusted round the plants occasionally would be an advantage. When the plants are well advanced, sulphate of ammonia given at the rate of one ounce to the square yard would cause the plants to make succulent growth. Sow broad beans, silver beet, and the useful spinach beet. Lettuce and radish should be sown at intervals to keep up supplies. Carrots lor late spring use should be sown. Shorthorn, Nantes,, and Chatenay are suitable kinds: a little superphosphate worked into the soil before sowing would improve the quality of the crop. When the seedlings are well up dust a little Sulphur along the row. It will keep black aphis away. Plant both summer and winter rhubarb. • Where the soil is warm plant a few early potatoes. In well-prepared beds sow cabbages, broccoli, savoys, cauliflowers, red cabbage, and brussels sprouts to provide seedlings for planting later for autumn and winter use. Onions should be sown as soon as the soil is in a fit condition to do so. Sow a line of parsley.

FLOWERS

This is a late season. Ornamental shrubs, trees, and roses may be planted for some time yet. Daphnes, azaleas, rhododendrons, heaths, bbrdnlas, m fact all evergreens, plant put much better now - than they do in midwinter. . • .. : -v. Plant pansies,'violas, stocks, antirrhinums, carnations,, aubretia, nemesia. and Iceland poppies. It is a good time now to plant delphiniums, lupins, perennial phlox, and Michaelmas daisies. .

Few climbing plants can compare with clematis for floral beauty. . The many kinds are useful for furnishing pergolas, walls, verandahs, or for covering trees. Clematis transplant better during the spring months than at any time during the year. Good drainage is one of the factors in growing them. Soil that waterlogs during winter is not to their liking. They are fdlid of lime, and when established a top-dressing of well-decayed manure helps them wonderfully.. Clematis do best when their roots are shaded, but planted so that their heads will be in the sun. • ■ , It is a good time now to cut back or trim matipo, olearia, lonicera, and hedges, now that the worst of the frosts are over. Macrocarpa and laurel may be trimmed any time during the winter FRUIT

Plant all classes of fruit trees, including walnuts, medlars, mulberries, and nuts. The' Worcester berry is well worth growing. The fruits are quite distinct from all other fruits. They are suitable for dessert or cooking. The plants are very prolific and bear fruit when quite young. Give them the same treatment as the gooseberry; Spray for - the control of , all fungus diseases. Lime sulphur is excellent for this. To control red spider, American blight, scale, and other insect pests, spray with Pomsol. This preparation is supplied by all seedsmen. Walnuts should be sprayed now to control the fungus disease that destroys, the shells of the fruit. For this purpose use Bordeaux; mixture. All seedsmen supply this. SHRUBS One of the daintiest little shrubs in bloom at present is baeckia plicata. lt is hardy, free-flowering; and goodnatured. . It grows to the height of about two feet. In bud form, the flowers are red. These, when fully expanded, pale to white. This is quite a good evergreen for the - rock garden.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/CHP19390829.2.31

Bibliographic details

Press, Volume LXXV, Issue 22801, 29 August 1939, Page 7

Word Count
882

IN THE GARDEN Press, Volume LXXV, Issue 22801, 29 August 1939, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN Press, Volume LXXV, Issue 22801, 29 August 1939, Page 7

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