IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXXIV, Issue 22397, 10 May 1938, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN

* WORK FOR THE WEEK (SfXCXAIXT WRITTEN FOB THE PRESS.) [By W. J. HUMMI ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS Inquirer.—Wallflower Is damaged by grubs of the diamond-back moth. Arsenate of lead will destroy these, using loz to four gallons of water. The damage to leaves of rhododendrons is caused by some root trouble, possibly by lime or wood ash. Top dress with some decayed stack bottom and dust sulphate of ammonia at the rate of 2oz to the square yard and water in. As soon as the frost has blackened the foliage of dahlias they can be lifted and stored in a frost-proof position. In pruning gooseberries cut out all old and exhausted growths and leave each branch far enough apart to allow the hand to pass to the centre of the bush to gather the berries. Shorten all side growth and reduce leaders to the desired length. Branches which almost touch the ground should be removed. Clifton.—Chorizema will strike from cuttings, but not too readily. Seed is the best way to raise them. The chimonanthus usually flowers from three to four years from seeds. If the plant is mak- , ing excessive growth possibly this is the cause of it not flowering. FLOWERS Although the planting season extends from May until September, experience has shown that early planting has much to commend it. The practical gardener knows that by getting the plants in during the next few weeks, while the soil is yet warm, they will get a grip of the soil before the cold and frosty weather arrives. Of course, where the soil remains frost-bound throughout the winter, planting is best done during the spring after the soil has thawed. There are also many plants which are not too hardy, such as many of the heaths, fuchsias, and some of the Australian and African plants. These are best planted in spring. They will then have time to become .thoroughly established before the frost arrives. An established plant will withstand more degrees of frost than one _ recently planted. When selecting positions for plants that are a little frost tender try, if possible, to place them from the influence of heavy winds. Push on with the cleaning up of all beds and borders while the soil is in a lit condition to work. When digging among shrubs, remember that there are many, such as heaths, kalmias, boronias, lilacs, rhododendrons, azaleas, and those shrubs that bloom early in spring, which need only surface cleaning. Disturbing the root system of these plants would be distinctly detrimental, not only to their health but also to the future flower crop. Top-dressing with stack bottom, leaf mould, or light manure would bring about much better results than cultivation with the spade. As this is the time when most of the tidying up is done, many are tempted to prune their shrubs now with the object of improving them, and as often as not much harm is done. All the winter and spring flowering subjects should not be pruned now, as these have their flower buds matured, and if pruning is done much of the flower wood will be destroyed. Any pruning needed is best done after flowering is finished. Shrubs that bloom after December may be pruned now. Those who intend planting roses or making alterations to their rose gardens should have this work put in hand early, as the ground must be given time to settle before the plants are put in. A good root anchorage is needed. Plants will not establish in soil full of air pockets. Quite a good show can be made with pansies. Select a well-drained position and dig In some leaf mould or well-rotted manure. A little blood and bone meal is also helpful. If well nourished plants are put in now they should bloom throughout the winter and spring. Carnations may still be planted. Lift and store bedding begonias. Plant polyanthus, wallflowers, and all spring flowering subjects now. Lavender makes quite a good edging. It is time now to do the planting. VEGETABLES Dig over deeply all vacant plots, and if the soil lacks humus dig in plenty of stable manure or any green crop. Plant cabbage and cauliflower for early supplies. If the land is heavy these are best planted on ridges, as wet ground often is the cause of root rot. Use lime. Early peas, and broadbeans may also be sown. Although September is the month to plant asparagus, it is a wise plan to prepare the beds now. Dig deeply and mix in some well decayed manure. If the soil is heavy good drainage must be given. A gritty loam suits asparagus best. Make the bed in a sheltered position in full sun, and away from the the influence of tree roots. Established beds of asparagus will need attention now. As soon as the tops are brown, cut them off close to the ground. Clean the beds of all weeds and rubbish, and top-dress with some light litter. Old decayed stack-bottom is good. Do not use heavy, wet manure. This is apt to keen the beds too cold and wet. The best time to apply heavy manure is in December, after the cutting is finished. FRUIT Fruit trees may now be planted. Raspberries, gooseberries, loganberries, and currants should receive the first attention. Strawberries may still be planted, but if not done soon, planting will have to be deferred until spring. Strawberries will not root well when planted in cold, wet soil. THE GLASSHOUSE Watering during the winter should be done before midday, to give time for the plants to dry out before night. It is a mistake to water heavily now. Keep the plants a little on the dry side. Even tnose plants that are in active growth will not be injured by occasionally allowing them to become a little on the dry side. If possible use water of the same temperature as that of the house in which the plants are growing. A plant cannot thrive if its roots are kept too cold. When the weather is favourable admit air. It is a mistake to keep houses and frames too close. Lack of air is often the direct cause of glasshouse plants becoming unhealthy. Pelargoniums, geraniums, and schizanthus should be given direct light. These will do no good where the glass is shaded above them. Forced bulbs should be given a position near the glass if top growth has started. Primulas are rather impatient of too much root moisture, and care should be taken when watering these subjects. An overdose may cause collarrot. , t Pelargoniums and geraniums should, have their leading growths pinched back. This will encourage lateral growths. The plants will then develop into stocky specimens. Fuchsias going out of bloom should be stowed under the benches and water withheld. When the tuberous begonias die off, place the pots on their sides under the benches. No more water should be given. When thoroughly ripe knock them out of their pots and store the tubers in dry sand. As the chrysanthemums go out of bloom, the tops may be removed and the plants stood outside in frames or sheltered positions.

As soon as the new growth is strong enough, cuttings can be made to supply plants for next season’s display. SHRUBS Among the crataegus family will be .found many valuable garden plants. Many of these are noted for their berry and autumn leafed effects. One receiving its full share of admiration at present is crataegus carrieri. It is one of the most handsome of all thorns, either in foliage or fruit. The fruits are about the size of cherries, their colour being bright orange red. These are borne in great profusion and seldom attacked by birds. Later in the season the foliage assumes a beautiful coppery tint. This tree grows to the height of 12 feet, and should be given a sunny, open position. All the crataegus are fond of lime in the soil.