Mitre Cuts

Press, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22103, 27 May 1937, Page 3 (Supplement)

Mitre Cuts

There are two kinds of mitre cuts, and these are shown in Figures 1 and 2. The first (Figure I) is known as a box mitre cut. This tool ((or it is a tool) gets a good deal of use. It is usually considered suitable for cutting large mouldings. The part marked (A) varies from 4in to 6in in depth, and a panel saw or hand saw is used for cutting the work. There are several faults with this type of mitre box. One is that when the work is in, the mitre cut is hidden by the front of the tool. Another objection is that the work is very

difficult to hold. By far the best way to cut large mitres is to square a line across the moulding, then to measure the width of the moulding, and mark this along the front, and in that way to find the point of the mitre line, and cut free hand to the line. If the saw i's in good condition it will cut true to line. . The mitre block (Figure 2) is the best mitre cut, and possesses none of the faults described in

Figure 1. These mitre blocks «?• often made in quite small sizes lor small work. This is a mistake, for when the mitre block is small it soon gets badly worn, so that the mitres are bad. Much better mitres are made in a big mitre block, even with a dovetail saw, in which a tenon saw is ordinarily used. A good standard size for this mitre cut is shown in the illustration. The block (A) should be about 20in long, 4in or sin wide, and as thick as the width or the tenon saw. If a hand saw is to be used this block may be of bigger proportions. , . When the block is squared it should be glued and handscrewed on to a piece 9in or lOin by liin in thickness as shown. The underpiece should be about liin wide by fin thick. The purpose of this is to hold the cut firmly against the bench, . When the glue is dry, the mitres should be correctly marked and cut. You will then have the best mitre cut you could buy. When small work has to be cut with a dovetail saw, it will be necessary to place a suitable piece of wood on the mitre cut, so that the dovetail saw will reach down on to it. Note that the lower the material is that has to be mitred, the more true the mitre will be, and the less wear the cut will receive. It will not be necessary to fix this temporary piece of wood. Just lay it on the cut. Another advantage can be given this mitre cut. Square a line across the middle as shown, and cut it truly square. This cut is very useful for cutting square shoulders. Figure 3 shows how to make a handy beading tool. It will save the expense of buying a beading plane. Simply screw a gin No. 10 screw into a block of wood as shown. Let the head of the screw stand out to the size of bead required. To cut the bead, work the screw head back and forward, pressing the block hard to the edge of board required to be beaded. Round off the sharp edge with a smooth plane, and sandpaper off with fine sandpaper. The cutting edge of the screw is clearly shown.