IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXXII, Issue 21977, 29 December 1936, Page 3

IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK

(SrrCIAXLT WiITTEN TOB THX F&ESS.) [By W. J. HUMM.I THE GLASSHOUSE There is much to be done under glass at present. To be effective during the summer months, most plants are now beginning to make their display. The sun is now at its full height and unless many of the plants are given shade the foliage and flowers are liable to be scorched. Whiting mixed with skim milk, and applied on the inside of the glass, is effective throughout the summer months. In autumn after the sun has lost its power this may be washed off without difficulty. Where pelargoniums and geraniums are housed, only a slight shading is necessary, just enough to prevent the blooms from getting scorched. Where shade-loving plants such as begonias, fuchsias, palm.s ferns, and primulas are growing give the glass a heavy coating. Pay strict attention to ventilation and watering, as fresh air and a moist atmosphere play a large part ui keeping the plants in health. When the weather is favourable keep the air on all night. Do not wait until the plants are bone dry before giving them attention. During the heat of summer, many plants will require more than one watering .each day. Damp the paths and benches several times during the day if the weather is very hot This will create a humid atmosphere which is suitable to most plants. Bad ventilation and a dry atmosphere cause plant pests to appear. Keep the house in a sanitary condition, by watering the floors and under the benches with Restar fluid. Two teaspoons to the gallon of water are sux-

ficient. This preparation not only sweetens the house but it is repulsive to insects. Do not allow broken pots or other rubbish to collect under the benches, as this harbours insect pests. Above all, remove any diseased plants or leaves promptly and have them burnt. One diseased plant may contaminate many others. All plants grown for winter effect should by now be well on their way. Remember that to be successful with pot plants, they must be handled carefully during their growing period. Each plant should be given time to develop into a good husky specimen before its flowering period is reached. As soon as the pelargoniums and geraniums have finished their display, they may be placed outside in a sheltered sunny position to ripen their wood, with a view of taking cuttings. Box off hybrid calceolarias as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle. These must be given a shaded, moist position. Cinerarias should now be ready to put into 4-inch pots. The main point in the cultivation of cinerarias is to keep them on the move throughout their vegetative period. If these plants are allowed to get root bound during the early stage of their growth they will develop flower stems and the plants will then never develop as they should do. Cinerarias do best when grbwn in sweet loam to which leaf mould and sharp sand have been added. Lime in some form is also essential. When potting do not bury the crowns of the plants beneath the soil, as this will cause the plants to develop col-lar-rot. After potting water carefully and stand the plant in a shaded position outside. Pot on the winter flowering primulas as they need it; they too grow much better in a cool, shaded frame outside. Mignonette for winter flowering should be sown without delay. Tuberous rooted begonias should be shaping to bloom now. Unless the plants are well grown, do not be anxious to let them bloom. If they are not well developed keep the flower buds off. Grow the plant before letting it bloom. Primula malacoids should now be ready to be pricked off into shallow boxes. Use sweet loam, leaf mould, and sharp sand. Lime in any form should not be used. These primulas are delightful winter flowering subjects. They are easy to grow, and will bloom throughout the winter months without artificial heat.

Freesias for early winter blooming should be potted or boxed up as soon as possible now. The value of these sweetly scented flowers is to have them in bloom during the winter months. Old cyclamen corms may now be potted. The compost for these should consist of two parts turfy loam, one part peat, one part leaf mould, one part sand and lime rubble, and a six-inch pot full of charcoal to each barrowful of the mixture. The pot should be given sharp drainage. Pot fairly firmly with the greater part of the corm above the surface of the soil. Do not over-water. Grow on in a moist atmosphere, and spray the plants overhead several times during the day when the weather is hot. January is a good time to sow cyclamen seeds. The seeds are large enough to handle individually, and they can be dibbled into a six-inch pot and covered about their own depth with soil. Water well, and stand in a glasshouse, where cool temperatures can be maintained. If fuchsias in bloom are given liquid manure twice a week it will improve the quantity and quality of their blooms. Astilbies should be stood outside in a shaded position as soon as they are past flowering. VEGETABLES The soil is in a splendid condition for planting, and no time should be

lost in getting in members of the cabbage family to supply the kitchen during the winter and spring months. Cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and savoys are those usually planted now. Although this family of plants likes good, rich food, it must not be over done. An over-abundance of nitrogenous manures will cause the plant to develop coarse outside leaves, and very little heart. Although cabbages do best in deeply worked soil, it should be made firm before planting. Cabbages will not heart well in loose soil. Procure young healthy plants. Planting half-starved ones is halfway to failure.

A plant known as orache or mountain spinach is a splendid substitute for the true spinach during dry weather. In fact, it is a plant that enjoys dryness and plenty of sunshine. The leaves are very succulent, and measure over five inches long and as much across. No trouble is experienced in getting it to germinate, and the young seedling should appear above ground within a week of sowing. Space the rows 18 inches apart, and thin out the seedlings to allow not less than 10 inches apart. When the plants are six inches high, pinch out the leading shoot in order to make the plants branch out. When clearing away a spent crop of peas and beans do not dig them up. The roots of these plants are best left in the soil. They contain nitrogen nodules, which improve the fertility of the soil. Just pull the tops off, and leave the roots to be dug in. Plant celery and leeks. The swede turnip is a valuable winter vegetable, and requires the same cultural treatment as the turnip. Sow the seeds from now on.

Continue to make sowings of all salad vegetables. Sow endive ori rich land for winter use. Make a sowing of silver beet now. This will come in for winter use.

A sowing of an early variety of peas can be depended on to produce a good crop. The variety Sherwood is good, and so is William Hurst. SHRUBS 4 There are to be found in the spiraea family many useful garden plants. Many of them make their display during the spring months. Some are quite effective in autumn by reason of their autumn-tinted foliage. The section known as spiraea japonica make their display in December and January. There are five or six forms of these in flower at the present time. The most outstanding one of these is spiraea Anthony Waterer. It is much like the rest of the family in growth. They are all small shrubs, seldom growing more than three to four feet in height. In Anthony Waterer the flowers are of a much more brilliant shade of carmjne. It is perhaps the most highly coloured of the spiraeas. In spring it is very effective. As the foliage develops, it assumes a variegated pinkish tinge, which gives the plant a bright appearance. Any pruning required should be carried out in late winter. Reduce the old flowering wood, so as to encourage new wood, on which will be borne the next display of flowers.