IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXXII, Issue 21858, 11 August 1936, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN

■' ’ x ■ WORK FOR THE WEEK (aPECLILLT WEITTEK TO* THE TSXSS.) [By W. J. HT7MM.I ANSWER- TO CORRESPONDENT Ranglora.—Spray the holly with “Gargoyle” prepared red spraying oil. Use it at the rate of one part of oil to 40 parts of soapy water. This may be applied now. In the week in October spray the tree with Black Leaf 40. using one teaspoon to one gallon of water. *— * VEGETABLES The rotation of crops in the vegetable garden is a matter that does not usually receive the attention that it should. Many vegetable growers do not realise the amount of good resulting both in finer produce and healthier crops. If they did, no doubt they would give a little more attention to this very important subject. Producing a similar Hind of crop on the same piece of land year after year gradually but, -assuredly deprives the soil of certain constituents that are necessary for the production of that crop. By growing, say, any of the cabbage tribe, each year, on the same piece of land, the soil is liable to become infected with club root disease, which makes it difficult to grow such crops successfully. When a proper system of rotation is used, much disease is starved out. This is but one reason why crop rotation should be practised; there are many others. All vegetables do not get their food supply from the same depth of soil, and also each kind of vegetable draws from the soil that particular nutriment which it requires for its development. Potatoes withdraw from the soil much nitrogen; pea and bean crops leave the soil richer in this element. Therefore, where crops are given a change of soil by rotation, each crop will- draw from the soil the food that is best suited to it. For crop rotation, the garden is best divided into four divis-ions—-one for the permanent crop such as asparagus, rhubarb, seakale, and so on. The others can be planted, one with fibrous-rooted plants, one with tap-roots, and the other with tubers. Next year the fibrous plants will be followed by the tubers, the tap roots by fibrous, and the tubers by tap-roots, and so keep the rotation going year after year. The weather in August is often very variable. Quite often warm, sunny days are followed by wet and cold ones. The fine days often tempt the amateur gardener to make a general sowing of seeds, and plant out tender 'plants. It is only in warm localities, where the soil is workable and warm, that such liberties can be taken. Where the garden is exposed and the soil is heavy, do not sow small seeds of any kind yet. If they do not rot, germination will be delayed and probably they will not be a success. Plots which were previously dry should be forked over; this will cause the soil to warm up and also improve the soil’s tilth. In warm, sheltered positions, free from hard frosts, a few early potatoes, broad beans, early peas, shorthorn carrots, early turnips, lettuce, and radish may be planted. Cabbage and cauliflower plants may be planted where the soil is well drained. Plant out rhubarb, sage, thyme, and other herbs. As soon as the soil is workable, get it ready for sowing the onion crop. Lettuce likes a rich, friable .. soil, and Usually is best grown where it is sown, but at this season transplants well, and it is advisable to plant now some of those sown last autumn. A sowing may also be made in drills Ift apart, and half an inch deej£ Cover with fine'sandy' soil." Keep all growing crops free fronij weeds. If weeds get a hold, they rob: the piant of air and light, two essentials for the development of the ypung plahts. On light, sandy soils, asparagus may be planted, but where the land is wet and cold, planting is best deferred until September. If not. already planted, shallots and garlic should be put in at Once. If they are kept out of the soil too long they will shrivel. FRUIT Continue to plant all classes of fruit trees, and do not make the mistake of planting them too deeply. Many seem to think that deep planting is necessary to keep the plants from being blown about by the winds. Perhaps deep planting makes the trees more rigid, but it is also the cause of many fruitless, stunted trees. The roots must must have warmth and air before they can function. 'Never plant deeper than the tree grew in the nursery and see that each tree stands upright. Firm the soil well about the roots, starting from the outer edge of the holes and treading towards the centre. By this method the extremities of the roots are pressed downwards as they should bei Always place the most fertile soil about the, roots, and if any subsoil is taken out when preparing the holes, this may be placed on top, where the action of the weather' will soon improve its composition. Loganberries are profitable fruit to grow. There is still plenty of time to plant them. Give them a good root run, plant in a sunny position, and they will be prolific. If grape vines are not pruned, do so at once. Late pruning causes vines to bleed. If this happens, much vigour will be lost. The buds on the peaches, nectarines, and apricots are showing activity, and therefore it will be necessary to have the plants pruned as soon as possible. Established fruits, such as currants, gooseberries, raspberries, and loganberries, should receive a light surface cultivation at this time of the year, whenever the soil, is workable, but on no account should the soil around them be cultivated deeply, as they are surface rooters, and if the feeding roots are destroyed now the future crop is bound to suffer. FLOWERS Continue to plant all classes of ornamental trees, flowering shrubs, and roses. If any alterations are required, get. them in hand as soon as the soil is workable. Given fine weather, August plantings are quite satisfactory. Many kinds of plants do better when put out during this month than if planted in July, especially the evergreen. Those who have not completed the planting of their herbaceous plants will find that from now until well into September these plants will transplant without loss. In fact, it is not wise to plant many of the perennal herbaceous plants in the dead of winter. Any mistakes noted during the summer in the arrangement of the perennial border may now be rectified. Many persons fail to grow agapanthus to perfection. To get the best from these plants, give them an open position away from the influence of tree roots and where they receive all the sun possible. They will then produce flowers. Agapanthuses are excellent when grown in tubs, and where plants are needed to grow in hot; dry positions they are adaptable. The present is quite a good time to plant lupins and hollyhocks. The pruning of roses should .be completed as soon as possible now. Delphiniums will require careful watching during this month. The young growths are often attacked by slugs before they get a chance to. come through the soil. To prevent these pests from doing damage, scrape the soil away from the crown of the plants and fill the space with fine coke siftings or sharp sand. Lime is also acceptable to delphiniums, but not to slugs. Dust a little about the roots. Plant out gladioli and carnations. . . SHRUBS Nuttallia cerasiformis -is the osoberry of California.' This unusual shrub is at present in full bloom. The flowers are creamy white, .scented with a strong

almond perfume. The plant grows from eight to 10 feet high and is of a bushy formation. It is deciduous, and when its numerous lateral growths are clothed with its catkin-like flowers it presents a most unusual appearance. The plant is Hardy, and flowering as it does at present, it is a valued subject for the shrubbery- '