IN THE GARDEN
WORK FOR THE WEEK (3PE;!ALLV waiTTEX FUV. iue tress.) [By J. T. SIXCLAIIi.J ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS JI.K.—.It is probable that you might save your couaea seandens during the winter, even iu your cold soil, seeing tii:it it is trained to u fence; but ;uu must protect it during winter by a sack or two. i'ou need not cover the entire plant, -.is, even if it is cut buck to -within a yard or to of tl'.u ground, it will break out strongly iu the spring and soon assume its usual dimension.-. As. protection is needed only during severe v.ealher. the covering might be so arranged that it can bo removed when tho Leather is mild. .Dried leaves will protect t'ue base of the plant, and if a sack is fastened over the leaves tliey will not blow about. Enquirer—The following are the names of Hie specimens sent: (.1) Haloragis alula. CJ) Oleaiia iiviceuniiefoliu, (:;; Asplcniuui lueium, (I) Aspb'uium flabellifolium, (0.) I'ratin auguluta, (til Copiosm.i robu<>t.i. (7) l.'ojirosma luciria. irf) olenvia i'ostevii, (,'.)) Kpilobium bil-laudicr-ianium. (10) J.inuin, (11) Cyuthodes acerosa, (1-) Peunantia coryni-Ii»-e, (llj) llcliehrvsum bellidi oid.-.s, Ml) an Kuglish weed, (lo) Whalcnbergiu, grocilis, (10) '.'oprusma linariifolia. Ii.T.S.--- Your gooseberry bushes have scale on them. As soon as the leaves tall, liiiiuo the plants, rake up and burn all primings, and some time in July, the Hist half if possible, spray all over with some oil-wash v. itli f.o winter formula. It is possible and very probable that jmi will have to do the same next sca-.-oii also. C..V.N. —You can easily keep up a supply of ii'u-tard and cress in your warm greenhouse all winter. .Sow the seed weekly if a good supply is to be maintained. Use shallow boxes and line soil, and sow the seed on the surfneo. Ot> not cover it with soil, or tho crop will be gritty. I.'n-ss the seed into tue soil, water it with tepid water, and cover the box with paper until germiuntion lias taken pluce. Vine—Although all the grapes have been cut oil' it is not yet time to prune the vine. The. Yellowing o£ the leaves is a natural procc'ss and not a disease. !>o not do iinv pruning until nil Hie leaves have fallen. About the middle, of dune is a good lime to prune vines indoors. Spring pruning is often the cause of bleeding.
CURRENT WORK Plants of the last sowing of cabbage and cauliflower can now be set out. For the cabbages make the rows 111 inches apart and plant the plants 12 inches apart. In spring, when they begin to heart up a little, every alternate plant can be pulled up for cookin;,'. This will allow the ones that arc left a better chance to fill out. The cauliflower plants must be put at least 20 inches apart each way, as they have to be fully developed before the heads begin to form. Where celcriac is grown, it snould be lifted within the next few weeks and stored much in the same way as carrots and other root crops. In the meantime, it should get a good soaking with liquid manure, preferably that made from fresh cow manure. In anticipation of frost and excessive wet it should be a rule to protect cauliflower and early broccoli at this season. It is a very simple matter, and may be done by bending a few of the leaves over the heads. This also preserves the colour by preventing a pinkish tinge. Cuttings of tufled pansies that were rooted a few weeks ago should now be in a good condition for planting in their permanent places in beds and borders. There is no better time for the work than the present. Avoid stuffiness in crowded greenhouses. If lilies of the valley arc plentiful in the garden, dig some up and pot the strong crowns, six or eight in a three-inch pot. Plunge (he pots in ashes in a frame, and bring them into the greenhouse about the shortest day. They will yield pleasing flowers in the spring. Air must be admitted on every fine day to chrysanthemums, and also at night when there are no fogs. All water needed must be supplied in the morning. Tf ill-shaped petals are carefully pulled out while the flower is opening, the sound and well-shaped petals will fill up the gap made and form a better bloom. Montbretias may be lifted, divided, and replanted. Cut down stems of summer perennials which have ceased flowering. Plant wallflowers in flower beds. Lift gladioli and tigridias. tie them in bunches and hang them in a shed to dry. Tha latter are best, hung up in a large paper bag. With the starting of fires, the air in rooms becomes dry and absorbs the moisture from any plants therein. See, therefore, that the plants are sufficiently watered. Over-watering must be avoided. Box up large bedding geraniums if it is desired to store them; remove most of the leaves, trim back straggly roots and place them rather thickly in boxes four inches deep. They can be wintered in a light, airy shed. The plants can be cut fairly hard back if they are going to be stored in a greenhouse. Pansy, viola, and calceolaria cuttings may yet be put in, but no lime should be lost in doing so. Keep a moist atmosphere until roots arc emitted. vi;(;etai{Li:s Lifting root crops—The main crop of carrots, having completed its growth, can now be lifted. Choose some fine day when the ground is dry and the roots will come out cleanly. Cut the top off close to the shoulder. In cold localities beetroot should also be lifted, but in warm positions it may be left a little longer, that is. if the tops are free from rust. At the same time it should be remembered that frost does it no 'jood. In (he lifting, see that Ihc malfi root is not broken. The greatest care should be exercised, as the slightest: wound will cause the beetroot to bleed. All roots should be stored where the sun does not shine. A shed is probably the best place. Should a shed not be available. place them in layers, points inwards, in a large box outdoors. A good covering of straw and sacking should be put over them. If Ihey are stored indoor,', some dry sand or soil ca'n be placed between the layers to prevent the roots from shrivelling. Several times during the winter the hca.ns .should be overhauled, and any decaying roots removed. FRUIT Planting Vines. —Those amateurs who have a greenhouse and want to grow vines should make a start soon. I would, however, like to mention that grapes cannot be successfully grown along with a collection of tlcwering and foliage plants. The temperature and atmosphere of the house must be regulated according to the requirements of the vines. For instance, during winter, pot plants, as a rule, should have as much warmth as a greenhouse can afford, whereas at that period the vines should have full ventilation day and night to give them a rest. When plants must be grown ui a vinery, they should be placed on a wooden trellis, raised a little distance from the floor. Vines may be grown in a border outside the house altogether, or one made entirely inside, or partly inside and partly outside. The last I do not recommend to amateurs, as early in the season the inside border *is much warmer than the one outside. Consequently all the root/; are not working uniformly. For all the roots to work together the border should be at an even temperature. First of all, it is necessary to excavate the soil for a depth of three feet. If the subsoil is porous, no drainage need be given, but where the subsoil is clayey some cutlet for superfluous water must be provided. Stagnant water is about 'he deadliest foe
to vine roots. If the locality is damp and low-lying, the border is more easily drained if it is raised above the surface instead of sunk almost to the ground level, which is the usual practice. If drainage is necessary, a layer of broken bricks should be placed in the bottom. Upon these lay a set of turves, placing them grass-side downwards, to prevent the soil working into the drainage. Tho bulk of the border should consist of turfing loam, this being chopped into pieces the size of one's fist. To save expense, the best of the excavated soil can also be used. Some bonemeal might be added with advantage, and this is best used at the rate of a six-inch potful to each barrow-load of soil. To keep tho border sweet, a liberal supply of old lime rubble can be used. Mix the compost thoroughly. As the formation of the border proceeds, tread the material down firmly. It is not necessary to make the border the full widtl. at first. A good plan is to make up the space in which to plant the vines, and to face this up with a turf wall. About half the width of the border would be ample. This will mean that a rather laborious job can be done in two instalments. After two years, or when the roots have taken possession of the soil already in position, the other halt of the border can be made up with a similar compost. In this way fresh soil is provided for the vine roots to run into. The best time to plant is when the vines are dormant, and the earlier the better, as the sap starts to rise earlier in spring in vines trained under glass than in 'the case in fruit trees grown entirely out-of-doors. Amateurs will find this a more satisfactory plan than planting after growth has commenced. a method many practical growers adopt with success. Sturdy young vines can be purchased from a nurseryman, and those that have been attended to in the nursery and have made one fairly strong growth arc to be recommended. Do not plant the roots deeply, but spread them evenly over the border, covering them with fine soil, and making it quite firm round them. After this, give the ground a thorough watering, and lie up the young vines to the trellis. Of course, if the border is outside, holes in the front wall, through which to introduce tho young roots, must be made. Do pruning about the middle of June. Black Hamburg is of first-rate quality, and easily managed, and Foster's Seedling is a useful white variety. These varieties are the best for amateurs. I I.OWEKS Primulas. —For winter and early spring flowering in the greenhouse primulas are very popular, and, considering the excellent strains that may be procured, this is not surprising. At present plants in various stages <n growth require frequent attention in potting, watering, and rearranging in the frames in which they are growing. Plentv of air is necessary to promote a strong, healthy growth, and the plants must also be arranged m a li"ht position, although shade must be provided during bright sunshine. Many successful growers place the frames under the shade of a wall or building, and this is an ideal place for the p ants, providing the position i* not damp. Slugs are very fond of the tender foliage of the young plants, and it they are not destroyed often do a largo amount of damage. They may be checked bv sprinkling soot round tne plants, and trapped by placing slices or raw potatoes in the frames. They feed on the potato, and, if these are frequently examined, large numbers mav be caught and killed. Plants still in three-inch pots will soon be readv for potting in four and a half-inch pots, which will be large enough for this late batch, as they do not require large pots. Provide nood drainage, and use a sweet, light sandv soil. Pot the plants fairly firmly, hut do not ram the soil, for the leafstalks are very brittle, and care must be taken that these are not broken. After the potting, if the weather is dry. sprinkle the overhead growth, and provide shade for a few days until the plants begin to root into the new soil. They may remain in the frames until frost threatens to harm them, or they may be placed in a light, cool greenhouse. When the pots arp filled with roots, well-diluted manure water will assist the plants, and fine trusses of flowers will be produced.
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Press, Volume LXX, Issue 21147, 24 April 1934, Page 5
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2,095IN THE GARDEN Press, Volume LXX, Issue 21147, 24 April 1934, Page 5
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