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Press, Volume LXIX, Issue 21024, 28 November 1933, Page 8

A correspondent, who has only recently removed to a new home, asks if it is too late to crop a garden. He says he has been told the season is too far advanced to expect any return from his plot Nothing could be further from the truth. In many gardens, of course, vegetable crops of manv kinds are sown or planted during September and October. They will yield their produce in due season. I But there may be a disposition on the part of beginners in gardening to suppose that the season is now too far advanced to permit any attempt to make up for the neglect of opportunity in the early spring. It is rather late to plant potatoes—indeed, as a rule there is not room enough in a small suburban garden to accommodate them in sufficient quantities to make the crop remunerative. But there are many crops which may be put in late, such as successional sowings of the salads mentioned above, also turnips, spinach, peas, and French beans, while it is not even yet too late to sow runner beans. Wherever there is room young plants of cabbage and cauliflowers should be set out. Kale, broccoli, and savoys can be set out about the middle of December. Leeks can be set out any time now when the plants are ready. Celery is usuallyplanted after New Year, but I shall say more about celery in due season. From what has been said it will be seen that much can yet be sown and planted. As a matter of fact it is during December and Januarv that most of the autumn, winter, and spring green crops are set out. FRUIT Vines —Young canes which were planted this season must be given every encouragement to grow freely. Keep the atmosphere humid, and admit plenty of air during favourable weather, but avoid cold draughts. Syringe the foliage with iepid water, early in the morning, and again at closing time. Lightly stir the surface of the border to admit warmth and air to the roots. A mulch of some light dung spread over the roots in outside borders will be beneficial. Stop the side shoots at the fourth or fifth leaf, and tie them to the trellis. Pinch the points of leaders when they have reached to one-third the length of the trellis. Guard against overcropping voung vines which have been planted 'in recent years, even though they may be strong and healthy. j FLOWERS Seeds of wallflowers, sweet wiiliams, Canterbury bells and other plants grown for spring and early summer displays can be sown now. If it is not convenient to sow them in boxes, they can be sown thinly on a well-prepared piece of ground outside, transplanting them as soon as they are large enough, into rows, and growing them on until autumn, when they take the place of the summer occupants of the beds and borders. , , The wallflower used to be one of the most common flowers in the garden. It is certainly one of the most fragrant, yet it is very much neglected. To get nice sturdy, lusty plants is not so easy as many people seem to think. When the seed is sown out of doors the bed should be in a position that has a full supply of light and sunshine, and the ground should receive a good dusting of lime, as the wallflower is a lime-loving plant. If the ground . is dry, give it a good soaking the evening before preparing the bed. Sow very thinly in shallow drills six inches apart, j As soon as the seedlings are well up, they should be thinned out one inch apart. When they are m their fourth leaf they must be taken up, having previously soaked the seed bed, and planted in nursery rows three inches apart, in ground that has no fresh manure dug in, but which has been moderately limed. The tap-root should be picked off to induce the formation of fibrous roots near the surface. This causes the plants to be short-jointed and sturdy. When sufficient time has elapsed for the plants to become further established, which will be in about a month's time from when they were last planted, replant them again, this tune nine inches apart. For the bed choose and moderately lime a piece of ground in a sunny position and dig it well, and a few davs later fork it over again, adding some more lime. When the plants are three inches high pinch out the points of the leading shoots. Afterwards, if any shoot takes the lead, pinch its point out. Plant them out in their flowering position in April. If there is not time to make the two intermediate plantings make one do, setting the plants out nine inches apart. When aubretias begin to get shabby they should be cut back, as by doing this the plants are kept within bounds. Thev may look a bit sorry for themselves if the weather should get very dry, but a good watering occasionally will help to start them into growth for another season's flowering. Aubrietias can be increased by division of the old plants, cuttings, or seeds. Seed can be sown in a box at the present time, and given shelter from sun and cold winds in a cold frame, until germination takes place, when they should be given plenty of air and when they are large enough they should be pricked off into other boxes or in a half-shady position outside to grow for planting where they will be wanted in the autumn. Cuttings can be taken any time from now on, and rooted in sandy soil in a box, keeping them close and shaded from the sun in a frame until the roots are formed. Then give them the same treatment as seedlings. Division of the plants can be done in the autumn.