IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LXVI, Issue 20040, 23 September 1930, Page 4

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

(SPZCTAL&7 * WBITTEIf TOR TAS FR198.)

[By J. T. Sinclair.]

ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT. Narcissi—Judging by the way your narcissi have been behaving, it is possible that they are Infostod with eelworm. The signs of this pest are the unequal growths of the plants, deformed leaves, and also short, deformed flower stalks. However, to make sure, dig up a few bulbs and examine through a good miscroscope. Eelworms are very small, and it' is almost Impossible to detect them with tho naked eye. Cut a bulb or two in half, and if they show any dark stains, it is fairly certain that eelworm is the trouble. The recognised cure is to immerse the bulbs for about three hours in water, heated to a temperature of 110 degrees. This is done when the bulbs are at rest. Afterwards dry them well before replanting in ground that daffodils have not been previously grown In. Where a quantity have to be dealt with, this Is rather an expensive item. If satiified that eelworm is the cause of the trouble, it may be bettor to destroy all Infested bulbs and replant others in clean ground, doing this when the bulbs are at rest. VEGETABLES. Those who have light snndy ground are to be envied this spring, in th.it they will have been able to get in their early crops of vegetables. Owners of hoavy low-lying ground will be lucky if they have managed to get the digging Of the ground done. However, we should soon see an improvement in the weather so that work in the vegetable garden can be proceeded with. One thing I would again stress, and that is that no chance should bo missed of getting in necessary crop 3 whenever the surface of the ground is dry enough to work. This applies mostly to laud of a heavy, retentive nature where, if cue misses a suitable day in getting in seeds, it may be w#eks before another opportunity offers. This and the cutting of the lawns are two jobs in the garden during the spring months that should, in my opinion, take precedence of all other work. As the time is getting on, as soon as the ground is in a workable condition, it may be as well to get ai the main drops of such things as parsnips, carrots, onions, Iceks (for transplanting later), nnd successional sowings of peas, cabbage, cauliflowers, turnips, spinach, radish, and lettuce should be attended to. Those who took tho advico given in recent notes should have a nice lot o£ plants of peas, cabbage, lettuce, and cauliflowers in boxes. These, if properly hardened off, can be planted out as opportunity offers. The peas should b? carefully lifted out of the boxes with the trowel and planted in rows, drawing soil up to tne rows on either side om a means of shelter from cold winds. S'ime small twiggy sticks could nlso br. placed near tne rows, with advantage. The young plants of lettuce, cabbage, and cauliflower should lie pricked out about si* inches apart into a bit of rich ground, and after a time, when they are well rooted and growing welt, the cabbage and cauliflower can he transferred to their permanent quarters, leaving the lettuce where they are. as no object would be served by transplanting them again. A few more rows of early potatoes should be planted, but do not be in a hurry to put in too muny yet. One mny be able to shelter a few rows from frost, but it is no etktv matter to save a lot. Parsley should be sown alongside a walk.

FLOWERS. Work at the present time that will elnim attention will be the thinning of the growths of such things as delphiniums, helenlums, phlox, etc. . These, if the plants have been growing for a few years in one position, usually throw up a quantity of shoots It is necessary to thin these out somewhat severely, so that those left may grow stronger, and flower more profusely. Delphiniums may have from three to five shoots left, if extra fine spikes of flowers are desired, and the other things accordingly. If it is des.red to increase any particular plants of phlox or helen/ums, the young shoots that arc thinned out will "strike like weeds" if put in saucers of sand and water and kept shaded from sunshine nt the cucumber frame or any house in which tho temperature does not fall below 60 degrees at night. It is now time to think of sowing the hardy annuals outside. These cun either be sown where they are intended to flower, or, if one has a spare sash, a rough frame can b« made with a few loobb boards about ono foot in depth. Half fill this with free sandy soil. Such a mnkeshift will accommodate one row each of a fair number of favourite annuals. The sash should be put on for a time, and, if attended to, hv watering, and shading from sunshine, she seed will soon come up, when plenty of a r s! o Id bo admitted, gradually dispensing with the shading material and the sash When large enough the young plants should be thinned out a little, and as soon as they arc rendy they should be flanted in their flowering positions. have found that by this method, one may save a considerable amount of time in watering, if a dry period should set in. ©ome useful nardy annuals to sow would be candytuft, coreopsis. Swan River daisy, sunflower. Statice Bqnderelli and Statice Wuworwi (everlastings), clarkias, cornflower. annual chrysanthemums, gndetins, gnillardias, Dimorphothecn nurantiaca. larkspur. Linum Gratidiflorum rubrum, Helichrysnm (everlasting). nasturtium (dwarf and tall), mignonette. night scented stook, niffella, Shirley poppy, and Schieanthuß Wisetonensifc.

GREENHOUSE. The zonal pelargoniums or geraniums that wore cut back last autumn, and kept dry through the winter months, should now have broken strongly into growth. They should have a lot of the old soil shaken from the roots, and be repotted into clean pots of a suitable siae, using soil of .good fibrous loam, teat mould, and either sharp sand or mortar rubble. Some old. dry cow manure can also be added. When repotted place the plants where they can bo kept fairly close until thev get hoid of new soil, when a cold frame will be the best place for them until they are wanted for the greenhouse. Other plants that cun be treated somewhat the same are fuchsias, but these can be kept longer in the warm house with advantage. Francoa ramosa (bridal wreath) is a useful plant to mix amongst the plants in the greenhouse in summer. It has long sprays of small white flowers which are very ortlanientnl. Plants of this should be looked to and cleaned up a bit. and repotted or top-dressed if necessary. As the hftlf-hnrdv annuals come along, and more space for these will be required, sotne of the hardier things may be placed outside in a sheltered position. or tt temporary shelter can be easilv erected with a few stakes and poles for cross-nieces, to support a covering of Bcrim. sacking, etc.. on cold ni"hts. Sweet peas in pots or boxes can be placed outride now. and can soon be planted in their flowering rmnrters. Other things thnt mnv be put outside are bo*es of calceolnr'as. old of bedding perann'ms that hnve not been fl'Vnrb°d at the roots this "nrinjr. pentstemon*. vevl>ona*. etc. The eirlifr bores of holf-bardv stuff can take their places in the cold

frames, thus making room for later batches. FRUIT. Grafting of apples and pears—Any old trees of apples or pears that wore cut down in the winter, with the intention of grafting, should be attended to as soon as it is seen that the sap is running freely There are a good many ways of grafting, such as tongue, cleft, saddle, and crown or rind grafting. But for our purpose >t will only be necessary to describe the latter mode, as this is quite one of the simplest ways of doing this Work. If the stocks wero cut down as advised. and the necessary scions buried in the ground to keep them fresh it will onlv be necessary to cut a few inches off the top of tho stock to make sure of getting into fresh wood. In selecting the scions, choose healthy, sound pieces of from four to six inches in length. Leave three buds on the top half, making certain that the top bud on each will point outwards. Then slice the lower half downwards, making a shoulder where the slice begins. This shoulder is to fit on the top of the stock when the scion iB fitted in. This is done by pushing the scion down botween the bark and the wood of the stock, when it may he tied firmly with raffia or flax, and either plastered around with clay or grafting Was to keep out the air. Clay for use should be mixed with' cow dung and a little up hay, "to help to bind the whole, mixing all well together before using, from one to four scions may be put on each limb of the stock, according to its size. For instance, a stock with three branches of five or six inches in diameter, would take four scions on each; and it is surprisinor how quickly n tree is formed when this procedure is followed. When it is seen that the grafts have faken, and are beginning to grow, care should he taken to see that they do not pet broken off hv the wind. To guard against this hippening, some stoker 'may be stuck in the ground, fl'id thrt voun-r frrowths. tied to these. Riih off nny growths that spring from the stock. . '