IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LXVI, Issue 20022, 2 September 1930, Page 6

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOE THE WEEK.

(sHtOttLLt tntlCTMr V 0» SMI. MttSS.)

[By J. T. Sweiiim.]

ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT. C.W.Si—feattally dnderitood that hunjble-beaa do * certain amount- of damage to the flowers of broad beans and some other plants that have the nectar the base of a long tube, by eating a hole in the calyx to get at the nectar, thereby spoiling the flowers for < seed producing;. Climatic conditions at time of flowering may have something to do with the trouble also. I know of no remedy other than protecting the 1 v»s plants in some way. Why not try 9 again! You ..may ..escape this year. VEGETABLES. As a succession to the various seeds to be sown in boxes, mentioned in last •week's notes, seeds of the following may now be sown outside on warm, tvelldrained borders s—-Lettuce (both cabbage and Cob varieties), eanliflower (Early London andWalcheren), turnips (Extra Early Milan'and "Snowball). Celery—A «mall sowing of White Plume may be made in a box, if an early supply is desired. These can be started into growth in the greenhouse *r hotbed, afterwards pricking off into , another box of rich soil, and , grown in "the'greenhouse for a time, then transferring to cold frame to harden off in readiness for planting out. As soon as one . sowing ot peas comes np, sow again to maintain a succession of this favourite vegetable. If ft piece of ground was . specially prepared for peas, it is a good plan to low a row of spinach between the rows of .peas, especially where space is not too plentiful for vegetables. When sowing lettuce, turnips, or any of . the brassicas outside at this date, means should be taken to protect the seed from birds, either by netting or dressing with red lead. Other work in thir department will be planting cabbage and cauliflower, also autumn-sown onions. ' Globe artichokes should be cleaned of •all old leaves and litter, and a dressing ef stable manure dug in around them. These are ornamental as well as useful plants in the garden, and are , quite suitable subjects for the front Of shrubberies. Jerusalem, artichokes may be planted at any, time when convenient. Plant' one foot iapart in the row, and if more than one row is. wanted there tihould be .from .three to four teet between the rows. »These are most suitable plants to .use as . a wind-break, or for hiding any unsightly part of the garden during the summer months. If horse radish wants attention, now is the time to replant. All roots of parshlps, turnips, etc., left in the.ground shotlld be taken up at once, before they begin to grow, and the ground manured and dug in readiness for other crops. FLOWERS. Canterbury Bells—-These are easilygrown plants that with very little trouble give a wealth of bloom is their season. They do equally T?ell in full sunshine, or where it is •■more 07 less shaded. Where too many people make n mistake in the culture of these plants h iijt "betnjj "too late in making' a start. . Being biennials, it is necessary to sow fcsseed in one year to flower the next.

The seed should be sown not later than late October. Sowing should be done thinly in boxes of sandy soil, placing the boxes in a cold frame, if available) otherwise they may stand outside. When the young plants are large enough prick off into other boxeß and frow on. When well rooted they should e transferred to an open site in any convenient part of the reserve garden, planting with eighteen -inches between the rows and one foot from plant to plant. Here, if kept clear of weeds and hoed occasionally throughout the summer, they will, by the autumn, be good .plants of quite a foot across. At any time in April or May, when the soil is in condition for planting, they may be set in their flowering quarters, where they can be expected to give a good account of themselves. After the first flush of flowers is over, if the old flowers are removed a second flowering will be the, result. Both the ordinary single* (Campanula Medium) and the cup and saucer variety (C. Oaly Canthema) are equally worth growing. It is worth while noting here that it pays to get a good strain of seed. For growing in pots for flowering in the unheated house they are very useful, coming into flower weeks before those . outside. Pot up any of the best plants in the autumn into 8-inch or 10-inch pots and give shelter of cold frame for winter; remove to the greenhouse in the spring. Zinnias are becoming more popular each year for the embellishment of the flower garden, and this is not to be wondered at when one realises the Bize, form, and beautiful colours of the present-day types of these flowers. They are essentially a warmth-loving plant, and therefore it is not advisable to make too early a start in raising middle of September is quite soon the plants from seed. About the enough to make a start. Boxes about four or five inches in depth are quite suitable for raising the young plants in. These should be well, drained, and filled with a mixture of loam, leafmould, and either sharp sand or mortar rabble. Sow the seed thinly and cover with about a quarter of an inch of soil, placing in a hotbed or warm greenhouse. Zinnias are one of the quickest of plants to come up from seed, so care should be taken to see that they do not become drawn by being left too long in too much heat. Don't be in too uuch hurry to prick off the young plants, as they resent root disturbance in the early stages of their growth. When it is seen that they are well rooted prick off into other boxes and grow on in heat for a time, gradually hardening off and keep where the sashes of the frame can be put on at nights. An open, sunny position should be choßen for planting out, and one sheltered from cold winds is to be preferred. The site should be well enriched witb manure, and planting may be done about the end of November, or even later. Space the plants about eighteen inches apart, and as they make headway provide neat stakes to which the main stem should be tied; also loop up the side shootß as they grow, as they easily snap off when in flower. Some people may think that zilmias are too formal, but I don't think this can be said of Sutton's Giant Double, as these are ■not only immense flowers, but are more loosely arranged than the ordinary double zinnia. Their height is about two and a half feet, and when well grown they make an imposing feature in the garden. greenhouse* Climbers—Where a greenhouse is large enough a few climbers on the roof or wall help considerably to make the house more interesting. It is a mis-

take to grow the more rampant growers in a small house, but much may be done in the way of root restriction and proper treatment of the plants to over- , come any excessive growth. It must be | understood that in the case of roof climbers the plants growing underneath must have full consideration, for if the climbers are allowed to get into a mass of tangled growth, neither they nor the plants undernoath will have a chance to show to the best advantage. As a rule it is much better to have climbers planted out, but some will do quite well in pots. This • necessitates frequent attention in the way of spotting, therefore, if suitable beds can be arranged these need not be too large or deep—about eighteen inches in depth will be plenty. Arrange for drainago by placing, broken bricks or clinkers m the bottom, filling up witb a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand, and as the bed will naturally be expected to last some considerable time, some bone meal, mortar rubble, and charcoal may be added with advantage. Do not for- ' get to place some rough material over the drainage to prevent the finor soil from getting down and blocking up. There are plenty of plants to choose from, but a selection from the following may be made to suit individual requirements:—Any of the strong-growing fuchsias are good, and always look well when viewed from underneath, bougainvillea glabia, heliotrope, plumbago, both white and blue varieties. All of these may be trained to one stem, much as a grape-vine is trained, and when plenty of lateral growths are assured, any weak or surplus ones may be removed, allowing the stronger growths room to flower well. After flowering they can be Cut back well before the advent of winter, and in the spring may be still further cut back to within a few eyes of the main stems. Lapergena, both the red and white varieties, are handsome climbers, and as these do not make excessive growth they can be trained thinly to the wires. Slugs are very fond of the young shoots of this plant, when growing up from the soil, but if a neck from a bottle is placed bver the young growths, this usually keeps these pests at bay. Lapergerias are better trained on the shady side. Other plants suitable for growing in pots if desired, are the various sorts of asparagus, such as splengeri, plumosus. and pamosissimus. Sniilax is also pretty and useful. Good strong plants should be grown in pots before transferring to their permanent quarters in the borders. Wires should bo fixed about eighteen inches or two feet from the glass, to train the plants. Keep free from greenfly by occasional fumigations and if mealy bug puts in an appearance syringe with kerosene emulsion.