IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LXV, Issue 19726, 17 September 1929, Page 4

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. (srsciiixi.* vtuttxn won th« fxsss.) [By J. T. Sinclair.] ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. jj B To confine the roots of mint plant them in a petrol tin, one side of which has been cut off. Plunge the tin in the ground, first puncturing a few holes for drainage in the bottom. Keep the top edge s couple of inches above ground level. For larger lots a place can easily be made with pieces of old roofing iron. Anxious.—Sorry I do not know an effective remedy for while fly on tomato plants other than cyanide. As an experiment try spraying a few of the worst a£ected plants with clear water at a temperature of 130 degrees. Then try water at the same temperature to which a carbolic compound, such as chensol, has | been added. VEGETABLES. Peas.—Those who have large gardens can scarcely be too liberal in their sowing of peas, for peas usually are abundant croppers from sowings put in before the end of October, and few, indeed, fail to appreciate their exceedingly high table qualities. If quick successions are required, fresh sowings should be made directly the last sowing appears above the ground. Several of the best of the late sorts are tall-growing, and need sticks, and if these latter cannot be obtained it will be better to select varieties that will not grow more than eighteen inches h'gh. Potatoes.—Continue to plant a few potatoes now and. again, to keep up a succcs ion of young tubers. If sets were plantt d very e rly, some have doubtless produced growths that have pierced the surface, and, consequently, are exposed to any frosts that may occur. It will be useful to hoe the soil between the rows, and draw it towards the plants a little, that it may give some protection to the shoots. In addition, a little straw or strawy litter may be scattered over the rows, as a further means of protection to the shoots from excessive cold. Where there is the choice, potatoes should always be planted in light* rather than heavy, waterholding soil, as_ the eating quality of tubers grown in a staple of the former description is always superior. In nine cases out of ten, better results are obtained by planting potato sets in trenches than by inserting them in holes made by a foot dibber: at the same time we have to admit that we have seen the latter method very successful in light, sandy soil.

Tomatoes.—Not the least fascinating, and certainly one of the most profitab e, branches of gardening in these days of high prices, is. that associated with the cultivation of the tomato. Nor is this surprising since the cultural rules to be observed are fairly simple. The amateur who owns a greenhouse is at a considerable advantage over his neighbour, who does not, but even the latter need not despair of growing «■ satisfactory plants, or of obtaining a large amount of ripened fruit in a normal summer. Whether he grows his tomatoes indoors, or out of doors, the man who is abe to pick regularly a few pounds of ripe fruit, during the latter part of summe-*, and in early autumn, will find himself increasingly popular with the domestic powers that be, (especially if the market price of tomatoes attains a high figure. Plants can be set out now in greenhouses which have no artificial heat. It must be remembered that the tomato is potash-laying, and it -is well to see that the soil in which the plants arts to grow has a fair >upply of: polish in some form. Plants from recent sowings should be pricked off before they have grown too large. This will induce a sturdy habit, and go a long way to make the plants fruitful later on. Mustard and Cress.—This is a very easily grown salading, and can be cultivated in the open between now and March. The garden culture of these two salads consists in preparing a nice fine surface, and in sprinkling lirst the cress, and, a few days later, the mustard seed thereon. Do not sprinkle soil over the seeds, but only press same gently in to the soil with a flat piece of board.

FRUIT. Currant Mite. —Many amateur gardeners are keen on growing the black currant, finding it flourish in rougher ground than the red varieties, and far less liable to the depredations of the feathered race. White currants are often shy bearers, even under favourable conditions. One of the most serious troubles of the black currant receives its common name of big bud, owing to the black currant gall mites getting into the buds and causing them to become abnormally big. A fair, reliable remedy is:—During the next six weeks or so the big bud insects are on the move."They are moving out of the old buds into the new ones. This is the only period when they can be reached with an insecticide. Try four or five fortnightly applications of sulphur and lime. While the bushes are moist with rain or dew dust the dry mixture over the whole of the bushes; but, of course, not after the fruit begins to turn black. The customary recipe is sulphur powder two parts, and lime one part. Use the ground lime sold particularly for garden and agricultural purposes. It is not quite freshly ground quicklime, which would probably burn the leaves and the flower buds, yet fresh enough to thin the ranks of the mites. By the way, it might interfere with the setting of the blossoms to dust while the flowers are opened, so during that period dusting should be discontinued. Another pest to which the currant is subject is the borer. This burrows up and down, through the pith, and if it does not kill the shoot outright, weakens it very much. Weak shoots with sickly foliage should be cut out and burnt by the end of November, if that can be managed. The moths have not emerged by that time. So far no other cure is known. FLOWERS. When the hardy flowering plants begin to make active growth, it is well to remember that the stock can be increased by means of cuttings. Phloxes, Michaelmas daisies, and practically all similar plants can be treated thus, and one can raise in one season a large number of young plants, which will , give a good account of themselves in a few weeks' time, and more so the following season. Again, you have no idea how useful these youngsters are when grown in pots. It does not matter whether you are without a greenhouse. They can be grown in pots outside, and when the flowers appear they can be carried into the house, and, of eourse such flowers last much longer than those cut from outdoor plants.

The right time to take the cuttings is when the growth is about four to six inches long. Each should then be cut off close to the ground level— not below the level —and the cuttings trimmed in the usual way. There is the usual temptation here, as with many other cuttings, that of taking them away from the old plant with a few roots attached. This is not to be commended. If you have a cold frame to spare •r an old packing-case with a few

sheets of glass as a cover, make up a bed of sandy soil (about six inches deep) in such and insert the cuttings. Watch them carefully for a few days or they will damp off. All decaying leaves should be kept pulled off, and black decay is noticed on any one particular stem that cutting should immediately be pulled out. Of course, when rooted, the young plants can be put into a border, or potted up if so desirCw