IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LXV, Issue 19624, 21 May 1929, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. (SPBCIiXiT WEITTEIT *OH THI PSBSS.)

[By J. T. Sinclair.]

ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT. E.E. —You evidently have oxalis in vour lawn If it is in patches dig it out a'nd put in fresh soil. If badlj- infested dig the whole lawn up in spring, burring the surface soil at least a foot deep, otherwise the trouble will be renewed. Hesow in September. VEGETABLES. Rhubarb and Seakale.— Clear the old leaves from rhubarb and seakale, and afterwards cover with litter or other protective material. Rhubarb roots intended for forcing should be lifted and allowed to remain exposed on the open garden until they are required. Roots which have been planted for two or three years are large enough, and are more likely to give satisfactory results than roots that have been planted tor longer periods. The temperature need not be more than 55 degrees, and the roots may be forced in any darkened structure, provided that the temperature can be maintained. For forcing, the roots may be placed within a few inches of each other, and the spaces between them filled with fine soil made moderately firm by the hand. If the roots are very dry when removed indoors, give them a thorough soaking before adding the soil. Seakale can be forced as early and as easily as any vegetable, but, nevertheless, it is not worth while attempting it until the crowns are perfectly ripe. If preparations are made now for commencing in due course, there will be nothing lost by putting off the actual forcing for a few weeks. The crowns should be lified and heeled in some moist, cool position.

FRUIT. How to Increase Bush Fruits.—There are several ways of propagating these fruits, but undoubtedly cuttings provide the best means. Gooseberries, red and white currants, are made the same way. 1 Shoots .of the current season 's growth must be selected; those of medium size, tbat are firm and are well ripened, are best for the purpose. They are best if pulled off with a "heel" from their junction with the older wood. This is easily done by seizing the shoot in one hand a few inches above its base, and with the other hand holding the branch firmly, then jerking the shoot smartly downwards; it will part from the branch without leaving any serious wound, and the heel will prove the best point for the emission of roots. Sound shoots perfectly free from the pith borer should be chosen. In preparing the cutting for planting, first remove any ragged skin or bark from the heel with a sharp knife, along with every bud except three or four at the upper end, which should be cut with a slight jlant downwards, on the off-side of a well-developed bud. about 12-14 in above the base of the cutting. Failing to get a heel of old wood, each shoot can be cut through with a sharp knife immediately below a bud at the base, from which roots will i readily form. The bottom bud must, however, be removed along with the j others.

An open piece of ground in a sunny position should be chosen in which to plant the cuttings. Neither manure nor deep digging is necessary as a preparation; they should be planted in lines Ift apart, setting the cuttings about 6in asunder in the line, and 5 to 6 inches deep. Ordinary well-eultivated soil answers very well, but if it is heavy and retentive in nature incorporate soma coarse sand with it, and scatter some along the bottom of the shallow trench, which is prepared in which to insert the cuttings. Tread them firmly in position, and finish the surface evenly The black currant requires rather ditferent treatment from that of any of the foregoing, particularly as regards removing any portion of the buds m preparing the cuttings for planting. Leave the whole of the buds intact, so that there may be always a foundation for plenty of young shoots rising to furnish fruit buds, which are found chiefly on the year-old growth in this case. . The cuttings are made and put in at any time of the winter pruning, and should remain in the Same position for twelve months, when they may be taken up and planted*with more space between them In the meantime it will be necessary to keep them free from weeds and other pests.

FLOWERS. Rambler Koses.—The rambler and wichuriana roses, -' being the first to get pruned, often receive attention soon after they flower. Sometimes, from various causes, that work cannot be undertaken at that time, but can be done now. It is very convenient to most of us that there are types of roses that may be pruned and trained thus early for it is a great advantage that some,' at least, can be finished with before early spring, when there are more calls upon one's time. In pruning ramblers it is better to err on the side of severe rather than moderate thinning, as the plants always flower best when so thinly disposed that the long shoots are exposed to the sun and air for the greater part of their length. All old and exhausted wood must be cut clean away before regulating and tying in the others. Cannas and Dahlias.—lf these are still in the ground, they should be taken up very carefully on a fine' morning, fixing the labels safely to them. These latter should either have the merits of the plants- written upon them, or, what is safer, bear a number referring to a notebook containing particulars of their heights, colour, and other qualities. Let the tubers or crowns dry gradually and perfectly before they are stored away in dry earth or sand in any place which is not damp, and is out of the reach of frost. Chrysanthemums. —Those of our readers who have some good varieties of late-flowering chrysanthemums will be wishful to keep their stock until next season, and if they do not give them as good a position in their borders as they should have had, they still contrive to save their plants. It is not wise to leave these stock plants outdoors all winter. True, in a normal winter they will keep fairly well, especially in sheltered positions, and in soil that is not too wet and cold, but one can never tell what kind of winter is before us. If a frame in which to plant the old stools can be rigged up and given a northern aspect, it will do admirably to keep the plants all winter. Plants that have been grown in pots and have finished flowering can be cut down to within six inches of the soil, and stood in a cold frame. They should be ventilated freely whenever the weather will allow; this will keep the plants moving steadily, so as to furnish nice sturdy cuttings from the middle of next month onwards. Water, of course, must be given carefully, or many of the young growths will decay. When there is a danger of frost the sashes can be closed, and this will be sufficient protection, as it is not wise to "coddle" the roots at this time of the year.