THIN CLOTHES

Press, Volume LXIV, Issue 19199, 4 January 1928, Page 2

THIN CLOTHES

CREATE NEW FASHION. CHANGING SILHOUETTE. ■.VRov on ows COS^espondes-I.; LONDON, November 1?,

An old Parisian of note once said that in the twinkling oil an eye the Parisienne could change her silhouette. One day she had hips, the next she had none. Since then the Parisienne has altered her manner of doing things. Sho now changes her silhouette reluctantly, and is led to do so by gentleness.

Gradually she has been weaned from the very short, tight skirt,' and the long, straight waist-line, to a longer skirt and a higher waist-line. But by what sorcery has she been brought to these changes only the fashion designers can tell.

She liked having skirts so short that she could not sit down without adjusting her dress over her knees, and even when that was done the knees escaped. She adored to look down at her belt or sash and to say to herself: "Just like my own baby's pinafore!" To be "tres sport'' was her idea, and she really thought she did look like a woman who practised sport, whereas no thoroughbred Parisienne ever looks like the out-of-doors woman of England and America, and never will. She is born a coquette, and she will remain so. In that she docs not change. New Silhouette.

All the half-season collections of new models disclose dresse3 and coats which give the new silhouette, with a dipping skirt, a straight bodice, and a higher waistline. The dress which dips behind and flows rather widely round the ankles is very gracefully worn in the evening.

The skirt with the uneven hem line which dips low on one side is frequently seen in afternoon as well as in evening dresses. The sports dress, as it is worn in Paris, may also have a skirt which dips at the side slightly. There are a hundred and one ways of making skirts look longer without being in the very lease inconvenient to the wearer. That is why women have accepted them. Had they been of an all-round dullness, nothing would have persuaded the Parisienne to wear her skirts longer. She has developed a love for her long slim legs in silk stockings, finished off by the most luxuriously-lovely shoes. Petticoats Ruled Out.

She -would never allow herself to be forced into holding >up her petticoats again. Nothing that is confusing in dress is acceptable. She has completely ruled out the old idea that "tumultuous petticoats" are "elegant," and has introduced the conviction that the dress should be slipped over the head -without hooks, eyes, and buttons to complicate the business of dressing, as also that of wearing as few garments under the dress as possible. It was almost against her will that the mother of daughters avowed the other days that "The less clothed my girls are under their fur coats the better they look." This is probably why fur coats are now being worn as if the barometer were at freezing point. Beaver, nutria, shaved lamb, broad tail, grey squirrel, and a few leopard and tiger skins are used to make the slim fur coats of the season. They have either very voluminous shawl collars or very small ones.

High Collars. Close-fitting hats are worn with them, made of felt or the new silk-felt called taupe. Under the eoat ia worn a little dress. It may be of the woolly sort for everyday happenings-such as shopping. Or it may be of silk, satin, or velvet for the afternoon. Long sleeves are usual in afternoon dresses, and collars may be high, or the bodice close at the base of the throat. Nothing is neater and more Parisian than the plain black cloth tailor-made coat and skirt with a very well-made satin blouse, or a lamS jumper. Both have long sleeves. This little suit can be worn with a fur on mild days and under a fur coat on very cold days. It is worn at tea-time when there is no dancing to be done. Shoes, stockings, bag, and hat should be impeccable with such a suit. Perfection in detail is the basis of good dressing today.