ALPINE CLIMBING.

Press, Volume LXIII, Issue 18901, 17 January 1927, Page 13

ALPINE CLIMBING.

MOUNT TASMAN ASCENT

The following communication has been sent to us: — "The fourth ascent and first traverse of Mt. Tasman (11,467 feet), the second highest mountain of New Zealand, was completed'on Friday, January «th, by Messrs Marcel ■ Kure. and Harold Porter, the last ascent having taken place as long ago'as February, «£• The base of operations for this ascent is the same as for that of Mt. Cook bv the Linda Glacier.route, nan -a, the Haast hut. Leaving the hut at 1.80 a.m. on a periect windless morn ine, the party reached the top of the Sifeerhorn (10.757 feet) without incident at G. 30. From this point, the foiSdablo south arete of Mt Tasman rising for 800 feefc as a knife-edc ot ice is one of the most impressive and awe-inspiring sights known to mountaineers. The party were wearing crampons, or ice-claws, which were ot incalculable value in saving the labour and loss of time which continuous stepcutting involves. Half-way up the final ridge, a great bergschrund broke the edge, making a gap which could not be crossed on the ridge itself, but a place was found 200 yards along on tho eastern face, where a crossing was achieved by a delicate feat of lcemanship. The ridge was then regained and followed to the top, the hour bemg 8.50. Proceeding at 9.5. the party descended the hitheiHo unclimbpd north to the col leading to Mt. Lendenfeld. and thence descended to the Grand Plateau, getting back to the Haast hut at 3.20 p.m. A report appeared in several papers last week that an accident had happened on Mt. Tasman. The accident occurred on Elie de Beaumont, and the partv who succeeded on Mt.. Tasman had no mishap of any kind."