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IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

iSIECIALLV ViUTTEK FOR "THE PKESb. ) (Uv J. T. Sinclair.) ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. Reader.-] t" you have handled tnem the bulbs of 'reesias wliiL-u «««. oiiriv in icbruurv ought no throwing up »' cc 1 yo " n ='„ S 'Zn \Veht so pot* should bo placed >n full l.fcti- « to prevent them becoming du. n and wcaklv. ri.ints desired to «ov « in -Tulv rni'.y now be placed in ie |_- r,vl of your warm K-ecnhouso .mcl i flr;sc tip to the gIa'SVEGETABLES. t'iihbi.BCi.-If the moth has u»t hw' l too hard at work, there ought b> «■" time to he a sufficient miml>er ot cabbage plants, raised from seed sown as recommended in this column a feu weeks ago, large enough for planting out in their permanent quarters, llant* put out at this tinio furnish a goo" Mipplv in the spring, as the season is not so early that there should bo mm h probability of their bolting and it not so far advanced that they have notcvory opportunity of £i um j bi.urtly plants to stainl gi^> ulu throughout the winter. No hetU'r bite, perhaps, could be chosen for the cabbage bed than tho piece ot !^ oul iroin which the onions woro leceiit j taken, as the soil often there is usiiall> (loft in very good condition lor lail>agv> following on. All that nj-vd "« < "no to break tho surface soil well up aiu give it a thorough dressing ol soot. Tho plants can be sob out in rows two feet apart, ami ono foot front plant to plant. By this arrangement it is possible to cut out and uso every alternate plant in tho early spring and" l this way givo more room for tho development of tho later stock. Sonic growers plant their cabbages at this season in raised ridges. Provided tho winter is wet, and the soil cold and heavy, this is certainly a very good practice, but during dry springs, such as wo sometimes get, this method or planting has its drawbacks. On tho whole, if tho soil is fairly porous, there is no great advantage in departing from tfte ordinary system of setting the plants out on tho level or in shallow drills. Wo prefer to plant without drills, as theso for the nest few weeks .generally get well filled with leaves from fruit and other trees, and as most grsaiens are greatly troubled with slugs, theso pests find a good hiding-place among the leaves. Current Work.—The asparagus beds are fast changing colour, but do not bo in a lmrry to cut tho grass off. Wait until the foliage is quite dead and dry, by which time it is of no further value to the roots. Get all the root crops lifted without .delay, as was advised last week. The roots are much safer stored than left in tho ground. Remove all spent stumps of broccoli, and, if possible consign them to tlio rubbish fire. Remove decaying leaves from all members of the cabbage tribe, particularly brassells sprouts. FRUIT. Lato< Fruit. —Although it is advisable to allow late sorts of apples and pears to hang as long as possible on the trees, it is a mistake to let them hang after they have ipatured, as a slight gust of wind may cause the bulk of them to drop. As we have often pointed out, late fruit cannot be too carefully handled while being stored. All lata fruit will require examination every now and again, as one bad fruit contaminates its neighbours, and if not promptly removed would soon set up decay in a large number. FLOWERS. Fuchsias.—Cuttings inserted early last month, as advised, should now tye ready for potting. A light friable compost is best at this season, and to pre-, vent a too free growth a fairly firm potting should be given. As growth is naturally slow during winter, a fairly high temperature should be avoided, as short-jointed wood is essential to wellfurnished plants. Until spring water should be carefully given. Bedding plants.—The geranium is one cf the most extensively used and hardiest of our bedding plants, but, unless in a favourable spot, it is not hardy enough to stand outdoors all winter. It is a difficult matter for anyone who does not possess some glass accommodation to keep the plants all winter. Most geraniums aro killed by kindness, water being supplied when none is required. It is a safe rule not to givo water until tho foliage is flagging. It is worth while to try to save the plants if a'place can bo found for the boxes where a reasonable amount of light and air can be given. A shelf in a light, airy shed, is a suitable place. The plants should be lifted now, and placed close together in shallow boxes, using a loam cohtaining plenty of sand and leaf soil. Trim back any straggling roots, also cut off some of tho old shoots back to an eye, and remove most of the old foliage. This all reduces tho drain on tho plant's resources. Press the soil firmly around each plant, and give, a good watering through a rose, to settle tho soil. This will be all tho moisture needed for some weeks to come. Fuchsias aro much hardier than geraniums, and can be left in the ground'if some ashes are placed round them for' protection. The frost will probably kill the shoots down to ground level, but young growths will break away in spring. If so desired, the plants can be lifted and potted, and should be kept growing for soino time before being dried off. Dahlias.—Do not be in a hurry to cut down the plants when blackened by frost, or the sudden check may cause a rot to tako placo where the tubers aro attached to the stem. If the foliage is unsightly it can be cut off; it is better to do thi3 than cut the plant back. Ground for climbers.—Such favourite climbers as jasmines, honeysuckles, and, of course, roses, may all be planted during the coming few weeks, and it is always best to prepare tho site a few weeks beforehand, so that tho soil can settle a little before the plants aro set out. When the choice lies between autumn and spring planting for any subject, it is, in nearly every case, better to chooso tho earlier season. But with all plants meant for the adornment of walls, fences, and pergolas, be very sure that there is ample root run of good soil, which is often lacking immediately beneath walls, and where the subsoil has been used for ramming round posts. A cubic yard of soil is often advised for every climber, and it is a good thing to provide on a fairly liberal scale, and, if the soil be at all poor, putting in plenty of old well-dc-caved. manure. Frames.—Those that arc occupied with cuttings must be ventilated according to the progress they have made in rooting. If well advanced, which can be determined by growth of leaves, and their general upstanding appearance, they may havo air admitted with moderation, both day and night, and shading may be gradually lessened by deferring its use in the morning later, and removing it in tho afternoon earlier. '

THE SCHOOL GARDEN. (SPECIALLY WItITTEN *OR "TIIK PBKSS.'^ (Jiy Gladius.) The forest tree seedlings, if fairly well grown, should now bo wrenched. This is done by two operators, ono on each sido of the row, both pushing their spades down at an angle of about 45 degrees till they meet some 4 to C inches below the plants, thus severing the tap roots and at the samo tinio slightly raising tho trees. They are then again firmed in' their places. This operation induces fibrous rools to develop ancf so facilitates successful lining out or final transplanting next autumn. Tho Education Department has asked for a return of tho forest trees raised in tho school gardens. A form to fill in giving totals of them, also of stocks and fruit trees raised and best yield of potatoes from four consecutive sets will be forwarded to schools this week. There should bo no further delay in sowing seed for green manure. Votches may be had on application at office, but will not bo posted. Oats, rye-corn, or barley can generally be. obtained locally. One half ounce of seed per sq. yard is ample. It is best to sow broadcast—turn under about 2 inches deep with spade, rake level and then firm with back of spade to prevent birds pulling up the young seedlings. If sown in drills they should not be more than 7 inches apart. In addition to cuttings planted in tho general nursery, mainly for experimental purposes, every pupil should be required to make and plant a number in tlio nursery section of his own plot. _ The work becomes far more educative when individualised thus. It should be noted that only the trees successfully budded and grafted by Std. VI, pupils are to be removed to home', gardens in the dormant bud,- The ground should be prepared now; ready for transplanting in June. The trees worked by the lower standards should be left in their plots for another season.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/CHP19260427.2.14

Bibliographic details

Press, Volume LXII, Issue 18676, 27 April 1926, Page 5

Word Count
1,540

IN THE GARDEN. Press, Volume LXII, Issue 18676, 27 April 1926, Page 5

IN THE GARDEN. Press, Volume LXII, Issue 18676, 27 April 1926, Page 5

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