IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LXII, Issue 18617, 16 February 1926, Page 12

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. (By J. T. SIXCLAIB.) ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. Potato. —If Ton /want good Bets of earlypotatoes for planting next spring, yon must let the crop stay in the ground antil the haulm dies away, and until the slcins of the tubers become firm. Only then are tho tubers ripe, or mature, and only then are they fit to be planted again. Sumner Reader. —See below, under "Winter Vegetables." VEGETABLES.

Tomatoes. —With some people, the tomato is the most valuable crop, as it can be used in a variety of ways, both cooked, and in a Taw state. Plants under glass have done fairly well, and, if they still bear some unripened trusses, can be assisted with liquid manure. Should fungi of any kind be prevalent, the atmosphere should be kept on the dry side, just enough water being given to keep the plants moving. Sometimes the tomato fly is much in evidence. It is easily distinguished, being small and white, and flutters from plant to' plant, when the foliage is disturbed, Two or three fumigations are usually enough to destroy it, but as it breeds rapidly some more fumigation may be needed before it is effectually got rid of.'. The excretions left on the foliage are often mistaken for mildew and choko up the pores and causo tho leaves to become limp and discoloured. Many plants in the open air were badly checked by the frost we experienced late in November. These plants will be all the better for a little extra carc. Trusses formed from now on will not mature, unless the position is sheltered and sunny,' and can be removed, so that more chance will be given to the fruit already set. Side growths grow very quickly, and these must be removed while they are quite small, so that the fruit will have the full benefit of sunshine and air.- We do not approve of over-denuding the foliage, as wo lave found tliab a fair amount of foliage means a good deal of protection from early frosts. At tho same time if the fruit is overshaded it does not colour so quickly as when exposed to the sun. The grower has to a great extent to be guided by circumstances. Winter Vegetables.—Judging from present Appearances, it is going to be a . struggle to keep late-planted crops in a healthy condition. The diamond moth is beginning to work amongst the plants. There is no good remedy to cope with it. Wo have' tried many things, including arsenate of lead, but only had indifferent results. The foliage is of a greasy nature, and washes run off altogether, or form into nodules hero and there on the surface, and the same applies to-the under-side of the leaves. Where hundreds of plants hav'e been set out, hand-picking is out of the question, but perhaps it may pay to do so when tho plants aire few in number. The insect'that does tlie damage is a small, maggot, green in colour. It. is very nimble and cunning, and when disturbed .either drops ia the ground or hangs by a thread,-and unless destroyed is soon back eating the leaves. Aphis can be checked by dusting the centres of the plants with soot or lime, or a mixture of both; it also helps to prevent thci moth from laying her eggs. This should be repeated after a heavy fall of rain. • '

FRUIT. Grapes.—Houses' in which the berries are colouring should be well supplied with air night and day. If either red spider or mildew is about, dry sulphur' can be dusted over the foliage and bunches. If it.is intention to keep tho crop over a long period, somo shading should be afforded the dark varieties, as they soon assume a faded look if long'exposed to tho sun. The literals can be left somewhat longer before they are stopped. Keeping tho growths off the glas3 is all that is required at present. The bundles should be gone over at least once a week, so that all shrivelled and ! decaying berries can be removed before they contaminate their neighbours. Cracked berries of "Gras Colmer should bo rut out, as th'ev are suro to decay so?rcr or later. The atmosphere must be kept dry. FLOWERS. Geranium Cuttings.—Amateurs who grow their own bedding geraniums, but who have not much glass accommodation, should propagate early. From the third week to the end of this month is about.'the best time. When inserted now they root quickly, and are in good condition to stand all winter, even if ~t that time their quarters are not of the best. Good cut-tings,-should always be selected. By a good cutting it is generally meant a growing shoot five or six inches long, taken From tlie parent plant. One of the leading'horticulturists in Britain once said: "A good cutting makes a good plant; a bad cutting *may never make a plant at all. " This shows that experienced, men are particular about the kind of cutting they use. Thus weak shoots with unhealthy leaves, and gross overgrown ones should be avoided. When suitable shoots have been chosen they should he cut square off below o node or joint, the lower leaves removed, and dibbled into sandy soil either in' h6xes or in the outside border; the former is the bettor. A little sand should be dropped into ea.a hole, or a thick layer should bo spread on the top of the soil before beginning to dibble the holes. The sand prevents an accumulation of moisturo around the bottom-of tho stem. The base should rest on the bottom, and each cutting made firm as it is inserted. Over-water-ing will cause damping off. Cyclamen.—Plants of this in frames can be given" plenty of air on - calm nights; the sashes should be removed altogether at night, if the weather can be depended upon, and replaced in the morning. j Potting Bulbs.—lt is now time bulbs were potted if they are wanted to niake a display during winter.. Hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, and crocuses are the kinds usually grown. Tho compost should be made of three parts loam, decayed manure, and leaf soil, half a part each, and a good proportion of sand. If five-inch pots are used grow one hyacinth or three daffodils or tulips in each. More bulbs can be put in larger pots, but it is not customary to grow more than one hyacinth in one pot unless the pot is several degrees larger. A often made in potting bulbß is in firming-the soil before putting the buib in position. When this is done there is a tendency of the roots to lift the bulbs out of the soil. This applies especially to hyacinths. After the bulbs are in position the soil should be inade firm, not before. Another rule in potting;large bulbs is to keep the apex level with the rim of the pot. If the soil is nice and moist, no j watering will be necessary. When the potting is finished, place the pots on an aah bottom, to exclude worms, and cover them over with sifted ashes. This keeps out light, and induces root action before the tops begin to move. The depth of the covering should be at least four inched. An inverted pot should be placed on air pots containing hyacinths, as the flower spike often appears with tho

weeks' time tho pots should. 1)6 lookfid at to ascertain if growth has started, and, .if this has taken, place, the pots should be removed to some position for a few days where there is a subdued light. SCHOOL GARDEN. In connexion with the agricultural instruction, note books are required to be kept by. at least St. V and VI. If properly done tho records will'be of value to tho pupils after they leave school. It has been suggested that pupilß should make their own notes. Theoretically that may be right, but in practice it does not pan out. As instructor it is my experience that quito a number of the pupils, in a class after having carried out practice work in the garden or the laboratory, are are not capable of stating accurately on paper what has been done. In my opinion the teacher should get from the class the exact facts as to area, quantities, seed, manure, etc., summarise on board, and thon let pupils make records in their own phraseology if preferred —the same with laboratory experiments. It is advisable to page the note-book and index it,, on say, page one. Particulars of gardens, as heading, district school, teacher, instructor, locality, aspect, distance from sea, proximity _to mountains, height above, sea level, kind of soil, sub-soil, area. of garden, of plots,' system in which the garden is worked—dual for preference—area of general experimental plot, area of general nursery, and nature study plot. Page 2, A plan of garden to scale. Page 3. A plan of pupil's own plot. A two years' note book will require about 20 pages, with the heading, " Record of Work for Month," and divided into four columns with sub-headings, date, work, details-of preparation and planting, observations and conclusions drawn etc. About 3 pages will be required for a summary of pupil's work. ' Nature study notes and experiments, and sketches, require a separate section of 20 pages. About six pages may be required for notes, observations, etc., in the general experimental work. Meteorological records if kept require a separate section. Graph sheets gummed in at end of back are recommended. ■ About ten pages are needed for notes of lessons in cultivation, manures, etc. The date of each lesson shonld be recorded.