IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LXI, Issue 18367, 28 April 1925, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. (jMciiiir wanrnr jos "rax. pebss.") (By J. T. Sinclair.)

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS Learner—The parsnips wii! l:eep in the ground all the winter. Looks should bo left-, and dug Vhen wanted, in (he same war as celery. If you particularly want to net at the ground on which '.he leeks nre srrowins, you can take them up ar.d 'av them in a dee-j trench in another part of the sround, coTerinj them well with soil.

VEGETABLES. Storing Hoot Crops.—The main crop of beetroot should low be lifted as soon as possible. This root dislikes cold weather, and having completed its growth, should be put under cover soon. Orn.it care should be taken so that the roots are not injured by breaking or scratching the skin. It is well to loosen the ground around the root with a spade or fork previous to drawing out the root, as it is important that this remains complete right to the tip. To break o' bruise the skin menus that "bleeding" will result, and this saps the quality of the root and causes both flavour and quality to be poor. Carrots have practically finished their Tvowth, and if wet weather prevails and the carrots are still iu the ground, many of them will crack. Although cracked carrots t-oolc well, they do not keep, being subject to a mouldy decay. A cold, frost-proof shed is perhaps the best place to store roots. Many have little convenience for this winter storing, but fortunately the roots need hut littie room. Each kind should be placed in a separate heap, with a little dry sand worked among then., in order to keep them plump. When placed in layers, the thickness of sand need never' exceed one inch. When stored in a bos, less sand is i ©quired, as the sides are kept, in position. A good place to store roofs outdoors is behind a south fence, and in this case no sand should be used, but a good covering of st»a«-, sacks, or mats must be put. on. We may mention in passing that the tops of carrots can be cut off. close to the shoulder of the root, but the tops of beetroot must wily be twisted or screwed off, and even then not too close. Onions are often stored in a close room, a condition that does not improve their keeping qualities. There is no place better than a cool, airy shed. Frost will not hurt them as long as they are dry. Heat and moisture are the two things to be avoided. Cabbage and Cauliflower. —These can now be planted in the ground recently occupied by onions. As we pointed out some time ago, they make an excellent rotation for a plot of ground in which onions have been grown. If digging was done as advised a few weeks back, the soil will have had time to consolidate, and should be'in about the right condition for the plants. Cabbage can be set fairly close, so that in spring, when they begin to heart up a little, every other one can be cut and cooked, thus allowing the ones that remain ample room to develop. Two feet should be allowed, between the rows if large-leaved sorts arc grown, and half that distance between the plants. Cauliflowers, on the other hand, should not be planted closer than two feet each way. Peas.—A sowing of dwarf early variety can be put in in a warm border. Needless to say, the ground must be well prepared, both as regards digging and manuring. Throughout the winter months growth is slow, and in a cold damp situation there is not a great deal of advantage from an .early sowing, but given a good position and good cultivation, the plants from a sowing made now make rapid growth with the advent of warm weather in spring, and green peas can be got by Carnival Week. English Wonder is a good kind to sow, as it is fairly hardy. If a second, earl}-, such as Carter's Daisy, is sown at the same time, a good succession can be had, but this is not advised in small gardens. All autumnsown peas should be covered with wire guards to protect the plants from birds. Make the drills two feet asunder. Broad Beans. —This is the best time to make a sowing of these beans, as the plants branch better than those from spring and summer sowings. Place the seed three inches deep in drills three feet apart, allowing six inches between the seeds.

FLOWERS. Flame Flower (Tropa?olum Speciosum).—This is a difficult plant to establish, but it is worth devoting some trouble in preparing the site. It thrives best in a deep, rich, alluvial soil, and prefers a cool, moist, and rather shady position, and at no time should it be exposed to strong winds. This plant sows itself freely in Loch Tay district in Scotland, and the uniform depth of roots of self-sown plants is about ten inches. The' plant thrives so well, and the roots run so freely, that it is often called a "weed." We should advise intending growers to buy plants in small pots, and when setting out put the plants, pots and all, so deep that the bottom of the pots is ten inches below the surface.

Cyclamen. —The earliest plant of these will soon be pushing up their flowers. They should still be sprayed between the "pots, which should be stood on a bed of sifted ashes. ■ A little shade may be necessary during the hottest part of the day." When flowers in quantity are being produced, water once a week with liquid manure, and better flowers will be produced. Care must be taken not to pour water on the corms, or some of the tender flower stalks will damp off. Bedding Geraniums. —Plants that have been used for summer bedding should now be lifted with a fork. They will be possessed of a few straggling roots, many large leaves, and stout, fleshy stems. Shorten the roots to about half their length, remove all the large leaves, leave the stems uncut The plants can be placed fairly close together in shallow boxes. Boxes four inches deep aTe ideal: the other dimensions may be anything convenient. Drainage in the ordinary sense is not necessary, nor need holes Tie made in the bottom. Place a layer of fallen leaves over the bottom, and on this a little sandy soil. Next stand the geranium plant in position,, and keep it there with a handful of soil; place another two inches from it and add more soil; continue this till the box is full, then scatter in more soil to make all level and press down with the fingers. Two inches apart all ways will meet the needs of the plants. Place the boxes out of doors, give a watering through a rosed can, and leave to drain. Place in a sunny frame, and give protection during frosty spells. If there is no frame or greenhouse, the boxes can be accommodated in front of a light window. Watering about once a month is all they will need till late spring; choose the occasional mild, sunny days we get in winter for the purpose. All decaying leaves and shoots should be cut out as soon as seen.