IS EVEREST BEATEN?

Press, Volume LX, Issue 18241, 27 November 1924, Page 13

IS EVEREST BEATEN?

enthralling story. So audience has ever listened to a ire fascinating and thrilling story of arcnture than that composed of memf rs of the Gco S ra P hical Soci " > and the Alpine Club assembled in rte Albert Hall lis: month to hear acBBtjftom.those'who took part in it '{ the last attempt to scale Mount Merest (says the London "Daily Telegraph")- General Bruce, the original leader, Colonel Norton. Capjjin Geoffrey Bruce, and Mr X. E. Ojell each contributed a. paper dealing with some aspect or stage of the exrtditicn, the whole" composing a most Valuable consecutive account. Tl.\e jjirative 'given by Mr Odeii of the Tjt phase of the adventure when MalL_ and Irvino disappeared from view : a tiie mists and snow, not to be seen jraifli was exceedingly lr v -.inatie, and leld the great audience enthralled. Odeli described in detail the last dramatic climb with Mallory and Ir- ' tiitfj i n which he took so notable a ' Mft, Mallory and Irvino had adjji|ccrt tc the sixth eamD —being the stfund lioyond the North Co'—nnd he in support with one porter. On the way-mist formed, and ho found himself immersed now and then in M iial'3- of sleet and light snow. At 25500 ft he came upon a limestone fond containing fossils—the first definite forms found on Everest. Climbing a little crag, at a height of 2(i,oooft, there a sudden clearing of the' atmosphere abo-rc him, and he saw the tflole summit ridge and final peak of Brerest unveiled. lie noticed far Ijray on a snow-slope leading up to tie last step but one from the base of tls final pyramid, a tiny object moving and approaching the rock step. A nero'd' object followed, and then the fast climbed to the top of the step, ij Jio. stood intently watching this dramatic appearance, the scene became ' enveloped in cloud, and he could not actually ho certain, that he saw the ittoitd figure join the first. Ho was surprised above all to seo his two compiles so late as that (12.50) at a point tliat, according to Mallory's schedule, sqiild havo been reached by ten a.m. at, latest. He could sec that they WfM moving expeditiously, as if enil&youring to make up for lost time. True, they we're moving one at a time over what was apparently but moderately difficult ground, but one could not definitely conclude from that that i they were roped—an important con- ' jidaration in any estimate of what befell them. Ho had seen that there was a considerable quantity of new snow covering some of the upper rocks near the summit ridge, and this might well havo caused delay in tho ascent. Continuing his way in. the direction of the summit about 200 ft, Mr Odell yodelled and whistled in case Mallory and Irvino might bo within hearing, but there being no response, lie, about an hour later, returned to tho tent, and then to the North Col. They watched till lata that night for some signs of Mallory's and Irvine's return, or even an iadication by flare of distress. No noyement could bo seen through tcleicopes in the tiny tents ahead and

ibovo. Tn'o days later he alone, again made his -way to the most advanced camp,, but the tont had obviously not' been touched sinco ho was there previously. He Trent in search along the piobable • route that Mallory and Irvine had taken. After a couplo of hours'' search he re'alisod that tho

chances of finding the missing' men

were indeed small. He returned only too reluctantly; to.thc tent, and signalled to the North Col camp the results of lis-search. Speculating on the possible causes of the failuro. of Mallory and Irvine : to return, Mr Odell rejected the thcor- |; ics of falling and of failure of oxygen apparatus—his own ex-

pcricnce being thaA tt* bo deprived of oxygen, at any rate when one lias not ; been using it freely, docg not prevent > tii e from continuing, and, least of all, getting down from a mountain. Ho -.'inclined to the view "that "they met their dfeath by being benighted. Mallory had slated he would take no risks in, any attempt' on tho final peak; but in action tho desire to overcome, the craving for victory, might have bwn top strong for him. The knowledge of his own proved powers of endurance, and those of his v companion, have urged him to make a bold liil for the summit. Who that had , wrestled with some A.'pino giant in the teeth of a gale,' or in a race with the darkness, could hold back when , sudi a victory, such a triumph of human endeavour, was within his grasp? Tho question rernained: "Has Mount Everest been climbed f" It must be left unanswered, for there was HO evidence. But bearing in mind all tho circumstances that ho had set out, and considering their position when last seen, he felt it was very piobablo that Mallory and Irvino succeeded. /(Cheers.) Begarding oxygen and the 'benefit derivable from it, Mr Qdell Baid his firm belief was that Everest could be climbed without it. , (Oheers.)

AN AMERICAN ATTEMPT. ASCENT NEXT SUMMER. (*r CABLE—parsg ASSOCrATIO^— copyright) UCSIEAUajj A K D JJ. z . CABLE ASSOCIATION.) LONDON, November So. The Geneva correspondent of the "Daily Express" says that a powerfully %ancod American expedition lias "been formed to ascend Mount Everest during summer of 1925, using Swiss guides.