IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LX, Issue 17983, 29 January 1924, Page 5

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. (spiniAr,i.T -KairrzK POP. "TUB E&ess."? (BY J. T. SINCLAIR.) ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS Anxious.—The white lily (Lilium candidum) is -erratic, and also subject to lily disease, which caused the foliage to turn a dark colour and rot.. Yours serai to have suffered from tho drought. When were they last transplanted? If not for fr-c or more years, then cut down the stems now and burn,, lift the bulb clumps, divide into single bulbs, dust thoroughly with flowers of sulphur, and replont in a new position. Die*- sulphur into the ground they wera lifted from. VEGETABLES. Peas. —The latest sown tall peas will be ready for the sticks to be placed in position, and this should be done without delay. The ground betwceeii the rows may be mulched with a layer of littery material, and afterwards receive a drenching of clear water, which will keep the ground cool and moist, thus lessening the danger of mildew attacking the plants. If the weather continues dry, the crop of peas generally will benefit by this treatment. Autumn-sown Onions. —The crop of autumn-sown onions will now be ready for harvesting. Allow the bulbs to remain exposed to the air as late in tho season as possible, but as they need protection from rain,, an open shed can be selected. If they are placed in a position which allows air to pass freely amongst them, they may be kept in good condition late in the autumn.

Scarlet Eunners. —These should receive the same treatment as recommended for peas. If farmyard manure is available, a thorough mulching' and subsequent watering should be made as soon as possible. Stop the growths frequently when the plants have reached the top of the, stakes, in order to promote the growth of side shoots and flowers.

Broccoli and Kale.—Pill up any blanks that may be in the plantations, and when they havo become well established keep the surface of the soil thoroughly moved by lightly forking or deeply hoeing among the crops. This will be of immense value in assisting healthy growth until they are earthed up.

Leeks. —Further plantations of leeks may be made now to furnish a supply of stems for use during the spring months. The land for this crop should be well manured, and the plants put out in rows formed at- 18 inches apart. If drills are drawn a few inches deep, and the leeks planted with an ordinary dibber, the soil may be worked into the drills as hoeing proceeds later in the season. Give liberal supplies of manure water to leeks planted early, and afterwards hoe the ground freely between the rows to keep the surface soil loose.

Cabbages.—Preparations for the the early cabbages should be made soon. It is a good plan to sow tho first batch about the end of January or beginning of February, and the second about a month later. Owing to the hot and dry weather we sometimes experience during -February it is necessary to take a little extra trouble to ensure a good percentage of tho seed germinating. Tho plot chosen for the bed should be deeply dug, but no manure is necessary. After breaking it down with a fork, rake it to a fine tilth, draw the drills about an inch deep and one 'foot apart, then sow the seeds, fill in tho drill, rake over, and leave in a neat and tidy condition. If tho ground is at all dry, give a drenching of clear water the evening prior to drawing the drills. Some sort of protection will be needed to keep away birds, as they are often very busy at this season, of the year. Flower of Spring, Sutton's April, and Ellam's Early are very reliable varieties for early use. "Vegetable Marrows and Pumpkins. — The plants should be examined once a week, and have all superfluous growths removed to admit light and air, and allow the young foliage to develop. An abundance of water should be applied during hot, dry weather, with an occasional application of liquid manure to ensure quick swelling of the fruits, which should be cut as they become fit .for the table. FRUIT. Raspberries. —As soon as all the fruit is picked, cut out all old fruiting canes, and also any surplus ones, so that the canes that are left will liavo a good chance to mature. Firm, well-matured canes by the end of the season are only secured by light, sua, and air being freely admitted. The old canes should be burnt as soon as they are cut. Tho shoots left should be carefully preserved, and secured to whatever supports that may be used, nor should the terminating points be at present interfered with, as the cutting off of these may cause dormant buds to grow. FLOWERS. Antirrhinums. —These are amongst tho most satisfactory of bedding plants, and are now making a. splendid show; they should not.be omitted .from any garden where masses of colour are ie- - quired. One great advantage in using the antirrhinum as a bedding plani. is that it does not require the protection of a glasshouse or frame during winter. By sowing seeds in January qr February, strong plants may be had fin April, and, if they are planted in, the beds early, the plants have a long season in which to establish themselves, and are thus sufficiently strong to give a good display early in the season. To ensure continuity of bloom, the old flower spikes must be cut off as soon as tho flowers have fallen. If the capsules are retained for the seed to mature on the plant, it will soon cease flowering. Lateral growths quickly develop, and it will greatly assist to this end if water is afforded to the roots during periods of drought. The antirrhinum thrives and makes a good show in shrubberies and other places unsuited for many flowering plants, but, in common with most things, it repays for a generous treatment. Rose Cuttings.—Many of the stronggrowing roses, such as Caroline Testout, Frau Karl Druschki, and scandent sorts like Exeelso and American Pillar, do well on own roots. Cuttings can bo put in now. The best shoots to take for cuttings are those which have borne flowers this season. If these can be pulled off the bushes with a "heel of the old wood, so much the better. Prepared shoots from six to eight inches long should have two to four leaves loft on, according to their length. If cuttings with heels of the old wood cannot be got 7 a heel can be made by cutting off the stem just below a leaf. "When cutting off the leaf, the little bud at the axil should not be injured. These cuttings root best round the edge of a flower pot. Fill the pots with a sandv compost, make a hole with a small dibble, drop a little sand in the bottom of the hole, and make the cutting firm. Place the pots in a glasscovered box or cold frame. Keep the frame closed so that evaporation is not rapid. Water carefully, and syringe overhead everv dav when the weather is hot. In four or five weeks roots should be emitted, when the plants can be potted off singly and placed back in the frame, which should be kept closed for a day or two, after which air must be admitted gradually, until the g' a3S ! can be done away with altogether, i Plant out permanently in May.