FITTING INTO NICHES.

Press, Volume LII, Issue 15567, 17 April 1916, Page 8

FITTING INTO NICHES.

♦ VOCATIONS OF IHE MODERN GIRL, TRIUMPH OF NAYY BLUE. ' (FROM OUR OWN* CORRESPONDENT.) LONDON, February 29. "Well, what do you think of them? How are they getting on ?"' He looked straight at the questioner, and deliberately delivered himself thus:— "On the whole, I am quite satisfied. ' They really are reliable, and quick at 1 sorting now that they arc getting to know the locality. But they are rather ■ slow when it ooines to delivering, for numbers and names seem to mix them up. I don't complain, though, for tliey ! are shaping quite well. There's one ' thing I can't make out—why do girls , dress so stupidly 'i Only this morning one of our new ones started off on the early round across the Common; i it was very wet, and she was wearing stockings lull of little holes —(a masculine appreciation of openwork! thought 1, but 1 did not interrupt) — and very thin house shoes with large buckles; and her neck had nothing to cover it. What do you call those blouses —newmonyer ?—I don't know why girls wear them. She must have , looked a sorry sight when she got back. It seems to mo That if girls want to do good, useful work they have got to start by being suitably and sensibly dressed.'' Thus the postman—a very old stager —gave vent to his feelings.* It was plain that he was resigning himself to make the best of a novel experiment. It would have been unkind to chip in with extenuating circumstances. He was talking on 'Christmas Eve, at the last house on the round, otherwise he could not have stayed to say so much. The object of it all was the new innovation —the Post Girl. In the interim, though, better sense has prevailed, and for the Postlgirl everyono has a good word. She now wears 6trong boots, but so far as the uninitiated can discern she has no regulation uniform beyond the shiny weather-proof hat which nothing can spoil or put out of shape. There is a family likeness, too, about the satchel of brown canvas that is slung across one shoulder. But apart from theso details she seems to wear her own costume of blanket coat or waterproof according to the day. The Postgirl does not seem in a huriy, but her step is firm and even, and she covers ground without loss of time. Some people say she is more careful than the postman. Certainly the knocker knows how to respond to her firm grasp. ON WHEELS. "Mind your back, please!" Everyone familiar with London termini—busy places— respects promptly that polite but stern order. Perhaps now the voice that utters it may be a trifle thin; its timbre sounds juvenile. Whether or no, instinct turns you round to face the danger the better to avoid it. But you see no luggage, no porter, no great truck. The station property that is looming near is the buffet on wheels—laden with tea-urn, crockery, sandwiches, buns, fruit, and smokes. It is about to perambulate the length of the outgoing express. The person pushing it is out of sight, but again the warning from behind—"Mind your back, please 1" Then it dawns upon you why the thinness of the vocal quality; the crstwhile youth in charge has been ousted by a mere "flapper," well on the right side of sixteen. Her uniform is of dark blue cloth, short in the skirt, and comfortable looking, the coat being long and setni-fitting. The dark blue straw hat has a ribbon band with the gold lettering, "Refreshment Room." She starts and stops her travelling tea-shop with, less effort than is required by the best-regulated perambulator; and she likes her work. Truly the terminus affords plenty of life, ever varying, and that is what the young girl wants endless variety and constant work lessen the tedium of labour. THE SNIPPERS. There : s an army corps of attractive girls at one at least of London's important railway stations. Each one is armed with a clipper and each wears a long dark blue • coat of reefer cloth: double-breasted, with a double line of gilt buttons down the front; the semibelted back has two more knobs of gilt, while a further touch of the same tone is to be found on the collar points, this time the company's monogram. Tlie hat is of navy blue straw of fino quality and becoming sailor shape, banded with blue silk ribbon bearing the lettering "Ticket Collector." Without exception the feet ar e well shod; tan boots are a favourite choice, the alternative being black shoes smartened with cloth gaiters. It is good to see a company of these girls traverse the length of the outgoing Riviera express, scrutinise the tiekcts well before snipping, all manner of queries are promptly answered. The work of one compartment completed, the door is closed with a snap of authority and the next compartment is visited. _ ' There are probablv half a dozen girls to a long train, and not one of them trespasses on the other's preserves. The duty is performed "with precise deliberation and assurance. It could not be neater if the occupation nad been a lifelong one. The ~ train moves out—there is a breather for a few minutes. The girls cluster together and talk liappilv; then they walk with an air of' official ease and knowledge to the next duty post—perhaps to meet an incoming train and take the tickets. Here quickness of sight i? very neeessarv to thwart frequent evil designs of travellers who, having settled their consciences to gentle slumber, scruple not to try and palm off tickets out of date or otherwise disqualified. Yes. the station girl has to keen her wits sharn. and withal politeness has to be one of her traits. Dark blue, with silver buttons, is i worn bv the "Underground Girl." and 1 her blue felt, hat has a wide brim, which • is becoming. Tnrfesiroiis. apparently, of wishing to j mnke the cirl too attractive, an- > other bin: line dresses the new employees in a sii't of dark blue wtih a 1 close-fitting bodice ton. halted, and 1 buttoned soverelv no the front with a 1 lino of cilt buttons r it crowns this < severe uniform with a sneaked cap. 1 Now, the peaked cap does not suit a 1 "irl at nil. and its closo rn-ip of the 1 head behind with tb->, hair, no 1 natter how *>eatl" th ; s mav have * dressed. No. +.h« designer of this ' drfss for E>r] lacks a sense of the ' sM-tisti". But '*<= wearer nprforms her i dutv to the satisfaction of t.h° travel- 1 ling public and of the management * STRENUOUS WORKERS. ' * You would go a long way before meeting a more strapping set of girls • than tnose who are "conducting" the L.C.C. tramcars. There are about- three hundred of theui now in regular work. J "Fares ready please!" "Pass .along in ( front!" "Move up closer, please!" "By r your leave, please!" A never-ending ; procession of orders which must become a little monotonous, always ut- f tered hy a voice that can be heard ( from one end of the long car to the t other. It needed a little practice to fc accomplish this feat with success. The ji tram-girls are of a good type, and a t few weeks of nippy weather hag added j to a naturally healthy colour. This con- : f duetor is undeniably neat. She wears I very dark grey cloth —consisting of a a short skirt and a belted packet of the c Norfolk pattern; its decorations include ; d

the puncher which punches fitted with resounding bell, ' another small machine is slung from a strap across one shoulder, and its duty is to efface for ever from future use the return ticket; from the other shoulder is slung the money-pouch, and a splash of colour is provided by the crimson badge with her number, while the brass chain of the whistle shines like gold. This girl wears mittens, sensible boots with gaiters, and a hat of shiny black waterproof material, becoming in outline, finished with a bow of its own fabric. The tram-girl tells you she likes her work —"the hours are very long, but the pay is good, and the officials are very considcrat-j to us." And you don't find many people whose heart is in their work, grumble at long hours if the attendant conditions are happy. Some poople at first took rather a delight in trying to tease the novice and to blushes to her cheeks, and it was the custom of the entire populace to stare. But now everyone is used to the girl conductor, everyone treats her well, and likes to have a momentary passing chat. In these days of overcrowding, the conductor has her work cut out to look after her car, but she never gets the least bit excited, worried, or annoyed; she keeps perfectly calm, tuul her ''Full up! No more room!" i s as irrefutable us the laws of the Modes and Persians. The public wants to lieli> her, not to hinder, and resents it not when she bars the way of would-be passengers by hanging up the barrier chain. There is no indecision either about the triple oull at th<; bell-chain which sets the bell sounding with three clarion notes, and off starts the driver, well pleased +o go his length till his new mate pulls him sharply up. The tram-girl has to be strong and healthy, ai:d she is not chosen if she does not look equal to tho 'strain of long periods on her feet. SHE IS COMING. Presently the girl bus-conductor will b; an everyday occurrence. At tlio moment she is a rara avis. You may stand at a bui;y corner for an hour, watch every 'bus that passes for every part- of the suburbs, but not until the fiftyfil'th minute—if then—will you see the girl at the doorway. But she is in training, to the number of about 70, and that number will most likely be increased very goon. The omnibus company is going to dress its feminine conductors in dark blue cloth, the skirt to reach only a short distance below the knees, the rather long Norfolk jacket to be piped with white; the soft "Alpine" hat of blue felt to be tumed up at one side, piped with white, and bearing the London General Omnibus Company's badge in front; it is good , to know that boots with low heels have been chosen; these will be finished by long gaiters of cloth and leather; and a mackintosh will be provided for wet weather. The hours of the girl conductor will be ten hours, tho same as tho men. The few girls who are on the road now declare that they like their work, and that nothing would induce them to go back to the typewriter—besides, thev earn on the bus more than they do in the office. AT THE WHEEL. When the war was very young, tho feminine spirit was very eager to drivemotor vans. And there were many attempts. But so often the physique was unable to bear the strain. Huge motor vans laden with heavy goods are one thing, the private, well-sprung motor-car quite another. For weeks a lady was driven up in her own car to one of the big stores, and then transferred herself to th o wheel of a big delivery van. But it was not possible to keep up this work fo r long. But we do sec everywhere any number of ladies driving their husbands to the office every and calling for them in the afternoon. They manage skilfully, and this fact makes one wonder why tho police are still objecting to grant the woman a license to drive' the taxi. The motor-girl-drivers of the ambulances in connexion with tt)c New Zealand hospital at Walton always attract great attention when they come up to town. They are in khaki, with a waterproof coat to cover them up, also khaki in colour. The close-fitting cap is quite attractive, made, too, of khaki waterproof, modelled on the Dutch outline. with full crown; there is a section at the back of it that can be worn up or down; according as to whether protection is wanted for the neck and ears. Theso girls have big gauntlet gloves of fur or wool, and ankles made snug by close-fitting gaiters. The girl, too, is employed to drive some of tho Government and khaki is the colour of her uniform. In Glasgow, wo are told, the woman tram-driver is on the streets, but she has not yet come to London : and one wonders whether she would have the strength to manage tho big-double cars that arc used in busy times. There are girls driving pairs of horses that arc attached to the vans that bring supplies to city and West-end restaurants. and these same girls wrestle bravely with tho heavy wooden travs which have to be earned into the shops. A man puts a tray on his head and thinks nothing of it; whereas it takes two girls to manipulate one. NO LONGER A NOVICE. Tlio lift-girl is very little younger than the war, so she is well seasoned to her occupation, which she does not find irksome. In the early days it was a little bit mixing sometimes to be able to reel off at each stopping place the attractions and the specialities belonging to that particular floor. But once these intricacies were mastered there was nothing else to worry her. In oiie place we find her uniform to be an overall of pretty blue linen, with waistbelt of black patent-leather, ar.d the letter "S" worked on each point of tlio turn-down collar. At another large store she is in dark blue, consisting of a trim skjrt half covered by a long and beautifully cut semifitting coat, braided with gold and having gold buttons; an air of smartness to this outfit is accorded by the fresh collar of white pique or white muslin that stands up at the back of the neck, turning over the coat-collar. OUTSIDE AGAIN. In addition to these indoor workers, the big shops have imported healthy and important-looking girls to take the place of the man at the door. At every doorway stands a large girl; she opens and closes the doors of motor-cars and taxis; she puts the pet dog on tho chain where he shivers , and whines till his owner thinks she will return to him. When the weather is wet this lady commissionaire carries the giant umbrella which will protect several people on the same journey: on fine days she wears a coat and skirt of dark blue, and a peaked cap of navy banded with black; when it is wet she has a | mackintosh of dark blue. An. important part of her stock-in-trade is the whistle, and the taxi on tho rank close ' by obeys it on th e instant. When it snows there is an additional girl who 1 is kept busy removing the snow from : the footway. She wears strong boots, 1 a black rubber macintosh, warm dark ' gloves, and a peaked cap of navy blue, ' and she keeps moving up and down, up ! and down, with a small squeegee, keeping the pavement free from mud and 1 slush. Inside the doorway stands a * prettv girl, whisk in hand. "Madam, ! may I brush the snow from your coat?" ] Of course, you are very grateful—her manner is as pretty as her face. And : just lately she has had a busy time. 1 The sou'-wester is a_ useful protection * for the head of the girl who has to be ] on patrol outside all the day, and ' though this pattern will not generally 1 bo regarded "as particularly attractive, i it certainly is enhanced by a pretty face 1 beneath it —or, perhaps one should say 1 it is not unbecoming above a pretty 1 face. Go where you will, you will usual- 1 ly find that good-looking girls, strong '<■ and healthy of appearance, have been ; 1 chosen for positions where there is j 1 much, to he done outside. There is no : 1

room anywhere here for tho arnemicor the weedy. Dark blue is worn by the little messenger girls who steal quietly up to the reporters' tables at city meetings; they are more eager for "copy" than even were the smart little boys. They move off briskly with the precious sheets and return in due course for more—ever athirst for "copy." Women will no doubt respond to the appeal to work on the land, and Lord Selborne has approved a woman farm worker's uniform that will cost 26s 6d; it is a coat and skirt of durable washing fabric, gaiters and stout boots. Farmers are being impressed with the need to engage women and to help in their training. We find girls at most of the station bookstalls, and they deliver papers to subscribers ;■ but they are not wearing any special uniform, neither are the girls who are doing wor < for the messenger companies. Girls engaged at, the War Office are wearing overalls of brown linen, of attractive artistic design, and, of course, all the munition girls and women wear overalls of linen to protect their dresses.