GARDEN NOTES.

Press, Volume LII, Issue 15536, 11 March 1916, Page 2

GARDEN NOTES.

WORK FOR THE WEEK,

ANSWER TO CORHESPCOT)E?rT. Enquirer. —As far as we know there is -no agent for tie firm in Cauterbnrr. ■ Some tinre ogo an advertisement appeared in a- trado paper stating that someone had. been appointed to represent them, bus we cacnot recollect wheiheT the ajency wao for Australasia or Xew Zealand only.

VEGETABLES, Lettuce. —A sowing of this to stand the winter should be put in some warm, sheltered border. A position facing north, and sheltered from the cast and south-west is suitable. Mako a fine tilth and sow thinly in shallow drills. The black seeded All The Year Round is one of the hardest sorts.

Celery.—A little more soil can be added to the earliest batch. It is not snch a check to the plants while they are in full growth as when a lot of soil is put in at on e time. Examine the plots carefully for green fly as this pest is attacking some of the hearts. A good syringing with some approved insecticide will stop its career. Be snro the soil about the roots is moist before putting any soil around the plants; also be sure the foliage is dry.

Beetroot. —The root* of tho turniprooted kinds, especially where the seed \va« sown early, will now bo quite large enough to lift. When this type of beet is left too long in the ground it becomes practically worthless as the colouv becomes pale and the flavour inferior. A cool dry placo is best in which to store them., and air should bo excluded either by means of dry sand or straw. When left exposed to the atmosphere for any length of time shrivelling takes piace. Late Peas. —It is always more or less a struggle to get late peas to yield good crops, and one of the reasons that the pods are badly filled is that the plants are often attacked by mildew, ihe affected foliage should be given a dusting of sulphur, and tho roots a good watering with some stimulant such as guano. The result of such treatment is often heavier crops. FRUIT. Vines. —The fruit of some varieties, such as Black Hamburgh and Mrs Price's Black Muscat, soon lose colour when ripe, especially if a high tempera-tuz-o is maintained, or tho bunches be unduly exposed to sunlight. It is a simple matter to keep the temperature lower by the judicious use of the ventilators, and shading can be given either by placing paper over each bunch or spraying some kind of whitewa-sh over the glass. As long as the outside atmosphere is not charged with moisture no harm will come to tho berries if the glass falls to 4odcg., but when the weather is damp and foggy the ventilators should not bo opened very wide, or mildew, may show on the leaves and decay set in among the berries. Tho air in the vinery should be kept dry and moving when it can be managed. FLOWERS. ~ Annuals.—lt is necessary to remind garden owners that there is no good reason for leaving annuals growing when they have passed their timo of beauty; In the ordinary course of natural growth annuals before they die sow thei r own seeds in tho autumn on the surface of the'ground. These seeds are lightly covered over by Nature with drifts of dry earth or fallen leaves. They germinate during autumn and winter and show a growth of sturdy vigour not often attained when we sow the seeds in spring. This being so it follows that if we desire an early display of annuals' wo should sow now where the plants are to bloom. "When autumn sowing is adopted the seed should be sown very thinly in shallow drills on a suitable seed-bed. Thinning of the seedlings should be attended to as soon as ever they can be) handled. Thev should never be allowed to grow together so closely that they touch each other. Light and air all round jnduces sturdy growth. Fallen leaves have a nastv habit of collecting around plants of all kinds and should be removed as they are always a harbour for slugs and other vermin. Tho following are a few useful kinds to sow now:— Sweet abyssium. godotias in variety, candvLuft, larkspur, Virginia _ stock, membphila. limmanthcs, viscona. linaria, saponaria, erysimum, and Shirley poppv. Ohrrsanthemums. —Plants that flower 'next are especially valuable where supplies of cut blooms have to be maintained. These freshly-opened chrysanthemums come in very opportunely. Specimen plants are very effective, but tho blossoms arc poorer in tint if. the plants are removed under glass just before the flowers expand. Where planted out specimens are to be potted up for flowering under cover, they may now be handled. If this operation is delayed too long, or until the flower buds have almost opened, the blossoms are sure to be checked, and to provo of inferior quality. It_js the danger of experiencing this check that causes many growers to retain the best kinds in pots, but if carefullv lifted they will not suffer much. peball of soil moved with the roots should bo as large as possible, and must not ho cut or bruis'ed. At the same time, superfluous soil should not bo lifted with them, as a compact ball of roots is all that is wanted.. The pots or other receptacles should be sufficiently large to hold the roots easily, and eomo good, rich, sandy soil rammed about them when put into the pots. rbev should be staked and tied, and watered thoroughly after potting. If. the border in which thev are growing is dry the soil will adhere to the roots much better if it.is given a good soaking a day before the plants are lifted. After being potted they should be shaded for a week, and kept rather close until they have caught hold of the new soil. If they droop much thev should be syringed: but care must be taken that this is not overdone, or the bloom buds may damp off. - " . . When the flower buds are forming in the points of the shoots the application of stimulants should close, or the rush of sap mar cause the buds to become blind. If plants intended to earrv large blooms are doing well, -the buds will bo all secured by now. and the peduncle will be lengthening somewhat: whe n this is tho case some stimulant can be given with safety, but before giving sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda the grower should be sure the pots are fnll of roots. The best war for amateurs to apply either of these is to dissolve one tablespoonful in f° ur gallons of liquid manure and applv it to the plants once a week. Needless to say. the liquid manure with which the sulphate or nitrate is mixed should be weak. If this is followed out the alteration in the colour of the leaves after its application can be quickly discerned if they were "pale before. Never sprinkle either of these Baits on the surface of soil in pots or the roots will be burnt. A plentiful supply of surface roots is a sure sign that the plants are doing well. From now on soot water should also he used carefully; it is far safer to use it I weak and often.

Fuchsias. —Specimens that may be floTTcrinc; in tho greenhouse or out of doors, should have the stale flowers and

seedpods picked off regularly to ensure their continuing in bloom for some time longer. To give the plants a fillip some manure water can be given twice a week. Lawns.—When laying down a lawn in the autumn it is a good plan to do the preparatory work of digging and levelling early, so that the seeds of annual weeds'will have time to germinate so that thev can be destroyed with the Dutch hoe.' This work, however, cannot always he done early, and if a •lawn has to be made this season it should bo done now without delay to give the young grass a chance to be well established before severe frosts come. Before the seed, which must he sownsjhicklv and evenly distributed, is sown the ground should be mado perfectly level and well trodden and brought to a fine tilth.