A STROLL BOUND THE CAMPS.

Press, Volume LVIII, Issue 10991, 14 June 1901, Page 5

A STROLL BOUND THE CAMPS.

PICTURESQUE SCENES OF THE NATIVE GATHERING. (SPECIAL TO "THB PRESS.") ROTORUA, June 13. Had only the fates that • control the weather been kinder, Rotorua in her festive array would hive looked delightful. Nothing could be lovelier than the combination of arches that spans the wide road opposite the Grand Hotd!. This is in the form of an Imperial Crown, and the curving archss as they met in the centre are feathered with the most exquisite moss and ferns. When the great white arc lights are lit it is a fairy picture, and a veritable artistic triumph. It is finished, but has taken much time and much hurrying up, for the Maori loves to stop and contemplate his work, and likes something to lean against while he is contemplating. But, alas! the rows of gay flags are sodden, and flap drearily in the rain. The Maoris* cries of "Haeremai" and "'Welcome*' seem cynical, and the .Maoris trudge about the muddy roads with gloom on their brown faces and dripping clothes. The Duke and the Duchess were on thek way to Rotorua, and the work of months was to be spoilt by the caprice of the weather. But nevertheless the natives made the most of every distraction, and, despite _c ram,, the' merry-go-round is swinging round with a full complement of riders, and the shooting tube is in great demand. The arrival of the ordinary evening train is a great diversion, «~d scarcely were the new Wxd-cage carriages vacated by the passengers when the Maori girls got in and proceeded to do their hair before the look-ing-glasses. It was a chance not «to be lost. Almost as interesting was the fight for the luggage in the darkness and the rain. 'Passengers, guards, and.extraneous folk who had nothing *o do with it, swarmed over the pile of baggage, striking; ineffec-

live matches ami calling out any* caught eight? of. It was the most miscellaneous collection," and" included all- sorts and conditions of luggage, from a sugar bag

to a smart cabin .trupk.- ■ The names got as mixed and "as mangled as the luggage, and I heard the name of Mr Grogan, the African explorer, xrho; with his wife and ,h:s younger brother, a middy on the Juno, is staying here, transformed mtq Oorgon; It only -wanted a "zoht" after it to complete the transformation. The boardinghonssa and" hotels are flowing over. , A roof is ft necessary in this -weather, and camping out has no attractions. A number -were wearing goloshes, hut it is impossible to keep them on for the sticky nrnd, and perhaps in the future antiquarians may nnd indiarubbtr relics or the Rotorua reception, in their researches. Very interesting, nevertheless, is the camp on the racecourse, the large cluster of tents and whares where the Maori visitors are living. Few bnt men are outside, as we pass along the vrid« street between the tents. Glimpses can Ibe got of all sorts of picturesque interiors. In one tent a man is playing '"There's} a hot time in the old town to-night ,, on a concertina. In the nsxt a three-tongued tangi is going on. The women, huddled in shawls, axe rocking themselves to aiXl fro, the tears streaming down their faces, while low moaning, rising to a 'dismal howling now and then, is continually kept iip. They have, we are told, been separated for some time, and are mourning those who have died. i Where it was not easy at first to discern the people within a little fire of sticks was sometimes alight, casting the queerest shadows on the dark faces and vivid garments. It was a joy, amid so much gloom and de-" pression. to meefc a girl with an oranpa jacket and a cerise skirt, with an emerald

silk handkerchief tied over her black hair. We were told by our guide that the fine clothes could not bs put on because of th.3 rain. In the portmanteaux , and the swags were muslins and silks and fine array, and there was something pathetic in the. dhapjpointment expressed. The "dsrnier cri" in Maori fashion is a cotton material with 'huia feathers printed on it. The background is at".ways of the brightest tints and the .pattern large, so tha effect is bizane. In one large tent,--the picture of cleanliness and . comfort, three. good-looking women were making black blouses and trimming them with wide yellow Lace. These were Napier Maoris, a.i:d the materials they were working at were the gitb of Mrs Donnelly, who supplied fch* dance dresses of- th-e Napier women here. We were shown two exquisite kiwi mats to be worn in the festivities. One consisted of alternate rows of tui and kiwi feathers, and would have made the eyes of any curio-hunter, glisten with envy. " Uy. this time it was pouring with rain, although we were assured by the natives it was only a pou tohu, or a Maori Scotch mist. Shelter was obtained'in tent of our guide, where, on & clean mat, wa re-

eiined against a swag like Eastern Sultans, and talked to the dark-eyed damselg. who squatted round the cold ashes of 'fine fire. It was not for quite a long time we dTscorered that a rug-covered heap close by was e> man fast aslesp, indeed, we neail'.y sat doirn on. tha proprietor, so unlike be looked to a human being, and so like « comfortable couch. Our guide had an uncle', who went Home many, years ago, and his little.ron Who was born there, had no less

a godmother than Queen Victoria. The Queen sent the little Albert Victor, now on a man-of-war, a gold cup, fork, and spoon, with an inscription on.it. These are to be shown to the Duke andDuehees, who will! likely bs much interested. In the next tent is the Princess whose marriage created such a sensation in Otaki, and who was so difficult to please with a husband. Her satin with its train .and orange .blossoms are left behind, ft would be of little use here, and she will probably appear in the poj dance garbed as the other girls. Her tent is not at all royal, and, indeed, not very comfortabla. "•

The cooking for lihe camj) is on a gigantic scale. Women are, peeling great piles of potatoes, and chopping up kumaras with axes. Rice is being boiled in great cauldrons, and blocks of wood are blazing under stones that will be soon be red-hot, and be used as-a Maori oven. A little further on, a group of women are greeting some new-comers "with flowing tears and dismal howls. A man among the latter is

silent in his grief, and stands with bowed head. In a tent, with a rude red cross on it, is Dr. Pomare; surrounded) by quaintly primitive appliances. Hβ is a handsome, bright-faced man, -with a twinkle an his eye, and a bright silk handkerchief round his neck, and opposite to him is an old, grey-haired crone, evidently, wanting a prescription, bub cheery exceedingly under his afflictions. Dr. Mason, who every second Maori seems to knew and greet enthusiastically, is on his visit of inspection, Others we meet as we stroll about are Mr Buller and Mr Turnbull, Mr Donnelly, the Hoh. Mr Carroll, and Mr Bethune.

The 'camp is clean, no refuse is lying about, aad', on the whole, the natives seem wonderfully cheerful and 'patient, though some of them have hardly seen the sun for a fortnight. But it is said that there is a great deal of tribal feeling in the camp, and even our guide points to a, cluster of tents and says. 'Sve not go there, we afraid of those men." One cannot help wondering if in the fierce etress and storm of the war haka that even m,akes the thin blood of the pakeha flow quicker the old tribal hatreds may not awaken."