RASPBERRY GROWING.

Press, Volume LVI, Issue 10264, 6 February 1899, Page 2

RASPBERRY GROWING.

While no fruit pays better for good culture than the Raspberry, the fair results produced by au amateur or beginner with a few old stools or rows at his command show fchab it is easily grown. The let-alone plan, in fact, is so satisfactory to a ce> bain extent that no fruit is move likely to be neglected year after year, the gathering of the fruit and thinning out ot the oi* canes being all the attention they get hi many places. The soil in which they are grown has a lot to do with continued success, and a fairly heavy yet well-drained soil cannot easily be beaten. Even in gardens of some pretensions there is a disposition to fight shy of disturbing old ftaejn berry quarters and planting new ones,..yet if gone about in the proper way and at the correct season the work is as easy and the result as sure as making a new Strawberry bed. The suckers that spring up at some distance from the older stems are the most easily detached and best for planting, ■ and the safest time for the work is early autumn -while there is plenty of warmth in the soil and yet little fear of long-continued drought.

For private gardens there are many suitable methods of training, but/I question if any give less trouble than a wire at about 3 feet from the ground, the canes being planted a foot apart and tied to the wire. Where much exposed, two wires are best,, one at 2 feet from the ground, the other at 4 feet, this steadying the ctines, which mfcy be allowed to run higher than the top wire if the lines are set at a good distance apart. The land, of course, will have been in order long enough to have-got nicely settled, and,/ planting must be followed by a mulch .of: short manure, . ~ ~

The depth at which the roots ate set depends a great deal on the nature of the soil, but shallow rather than deep planting should be the rule., ; - This because the Raspberry roots deeply with the lower tiers of roots, H and seems by the nature of the upper, more fibrous, parts to delight in running just undei the surface. The long thong-like roots steady the plants in position, while those nearer the surface collect food and moisture. For this reason they should be kept up, well spread out and as far as possioie kept always moist. In early spring these planting canes should be cut down to within a few inches of the surface, and as soon as strong sucker-like growths appear from tne bane the little lateral shoots may be rubbed quite out. even from the few joints left. The car* of the grower will be by all reasonable meaaf to ensure a strong, -healthy,-- and cletlE growth, that in the succeeding season will carry a fair crop of fruit. The second sea* son, if properly treated, a very heavy crop will be gathered, and after this .the plant* should go on improving for several years". Pruning consists, of course, in taking oat the old wood after fruiting, and so thinning the number of young shopts annually that there is no crowding on the trellis. The old canes are best removed directly the fruit is taken, the additional room being useful, allowing the sun and air to enter freely and thoroughly ripen the young canes. A heavier crop of fruit may in some instance* be gathered by topping the young panel to different lengths in spring, not indiscriminately as they come, but leaving the stronger canes a foot or even more longer than shorter or imperfectly ripened ones. A more regular supply of fruit down tht and a heavier crop, owing to each separate cane being taken at the most suitable height, result.—Garden.