GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LV, Issue 10059, 10 June 1898, Page 7

GARDEN NOTES

" Weekly Press and Referee,'

Now that the soil of our gardens is becoming moist, it would be well to remember that no one should be allowed to trample on newly dug plots, as when wet the earth binds badly, forming hard, cold lumps, which remain unbroken when the time arrives for cropping. Outdoor vines, from which the leaves have fallen, should be pruned nnd arranged for next year's growth. A very good mode of training is to contet a shoot right and left from the main m in a horizontal direction along the base of the wall about a foot from the surface of the ground, and from these horizontal stems train uprights at intervals of about 2ft. These uprights should be renewed every second or third year. This is, perhaps, the best method, to prune, having regard to the appearance of the wall. A plant of the Hlnck Humbiirg grape, planted in a north aspect, will, without much trouble being incurred, give (and we speak from experience) <i l.Tge return in good, sound fruit. . The bunches will not, of course, be so large as those produced in vineries, but will be found almost erjually good when brought to the table. During the ensuing month seed sowing is almost entirely susjKjnded, and planting fruit trees and bushes will form the principal occupation.

In forming new plantations of Raspberries those suckers which have arisen some distance away from the main stools may be utilised, choosing those which possess a large mass of fibrous roots. Raspberries require a deep and rich soil. Plant in rows 4ft to sft apart and giving 6in to 12in between the canes, according to their size and strength. When planting sprcr.d out the roots in shallow holes, and cover them with fine soil, planting firmly. Those who have the necessary wall space may, with advantage, try a few Cordon Gooseberries. Train the bushes as upright Cordons, the shoots being made to spread horizontally right and left. The ultimate side shoots must be stopped in summer ufc the third leaf, thus causing the formation of fruit spurs near the stems. Red and W uite Currants may be treated in the same manner. . It is claimed for this system of training that by its means finer and cleaner fruit is produced than is borne on the ordinary bushes. No other class of fine-foliaged plants is so rich and varied in colour as Crotons when grown under conditions; but unless they get the necessary attention and a genial atmosphere they are far from being attractive. Large specimens when kept clean and healthy are very imposing, though it? is as young plants that their full beauty is seen. They may be grown from 2ft to 3ft in one season, and with well-coloured cuttings to start with they will have highly-coloured foliage down to the base. Cuttings may be taken at any time during the winter, the stronger the cuttings the better. Where good propagating accommodation is not at hand, the tops may be rooted before taking them from the plants. A few leaves should be removed, and the stem cut about half through and the knife run up so as to split the stem about half an inch or rather less, a small wedge being inserted to keep the cut open, and tJien some peat, Sphagnum, and sand bound'round. If this is kept moist, but not too wet, roots will soon make their appearance. If taken off and potted carefully they will only require to be kept close for a few days. After they are established the most essential points towards success are light, heat and moisture. They should be potted on before they have become potbound, until they are in the largest size it is intended to give them. Very effective plants may be grown in 4£in pots, but for larger specimens pots should be used according to convenience. Crotons are not so particular as many other plants in regard to soil. Good loam, leaf mould, some sand, and a little bone meal added, will be found a good compost. Soot water may be used, both for watering and syringing. It is not only a good fertiliser, but is destructive to insect pests. Plants of Allamanda, Stephanotie tioribunda, -&c, may receive their annual prunijjg. In the case of the latter, a partial thinning-out of the weaker shoots will suffice, the shorter laterals and spurs being left to produce flowers, these being tied-in loosely, or left untouched, as may appear best suited to the position the plants occupy. Clerodendron Balfourianum and Dipladenias should be treated similarly. Allamandas, Bougainvilleas, and Codiaeums (Crotons) should be pruned hard, assuming that the soil at the roots is dry, and they have been prepared as was advised previously. In the case of the Ixoras, these should have the weakest shoots cut back, leaving the others unpruned. Transfer late plants of Cinerarias into larger pots, keep them near the glass and lie out the shoots as they increase in growth. They should be kept in a cool and airy place, and kept free from aphides. Clear soot water may be frequently given. Large plants of Cyclamen are apt to suffer from damp and mould settling on the flowers in the centre before they rise above the foliage. They ought to be watched for this, and when water is applied it) should be given by carefully pouring it in round the sides of the pots. If Double Rimulas can be placed in a temperature of about 50deg they will soon come into bloom. Plants for later flowering may be kept cooler. Some Ejricas and Epacrids may now be showing bloom, and in order to keep them presentable for as long a time as possible, they should be placed in a cool part of the house, and a close watch kept for mildew, applying flowers of sulphur on the first appearance of the pest. Be careful to remove all decaying leaves from the building. Keep the leaves of Palms, Camellias, Oranges, and similar plants, free from the blade fungus which so often appers upon them. This is best effected by the use of soap and water. A few hardy Primroses may be potted up from the* open garden, and when introduced into a warm house will bloom freely and well repay for the slight trouble incurred. Use strong roots and bin pots.