LONDON FASHION NOTES.

Press, Volume LV, Issue 9941, 21 January 1898, Page 2

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

.'. . —.—= —■'■ j [Vvj_ixtj..\- Sfbciali-v yon thb W«Ki.r Pa_a.] J " LosnoK, Nov. 5. Corduroy velveteen is now widely used for the making of useful blouses. And so is the Terry velvet. In both classes the range of colour is .very wide. For this style of blouse, meant for ordinary every day wear, small button} not infrequently form • trimmingThey are perhaps mostly of pearl, but silver end gilt also are much in request. As a rule they adorn tbe box pleat or wide hand down the front of a simple blouse, by being placed vary closely together in groups of six, nine, and even as many as twelve sometimes; or alts they are arranged some little distance apart, in which oa*# it is usual for them to be connected by silk cords looped from one tide to the other. Whichever way they are placed the effect ia always good, aud tonoy buttons, as well as the ordinary smoksd pearl, go a ong way in enlivening a dark coloured skirts blouse. The seny style of trimming applies equally to blouses of flannel or of flannelette. Perhaps it might be as well for me'to mention ' that not exclusively to blouse bodices do buttons apply as far as trimming is concerned, for with splendid effect they are sometimes seen on a complete dress, in whioh case tbe skirt too has its share of these tittle ornaments which are connected by thin silken cords over an insertion, or slashing of silk. Another class of velveteen or velvet for blouses, is that printed with small metallio patterns. For many of the non-ngefal kind of velvet blouse, trimmings of chinchilla or ome other short-haired variety of fur are preferred. Among American blouses, I hear that a blouse whioh falls in full pleat* to the hips, and not caught in at the waist, is greatly in vogue. But it i» not expected that tbe same hideous style will " take " here. ' Detachable white linen collars and cuffs still hold their own and continue to be sold as an accompaniment to the ready-made skirt blouse. But a change has here been introduced, for whereas, hitherto, these turndown linen collars were perfectly plain, they are now cut-in a series of little slits and then threaded with any coloured ribbon that may be preferred- When these collars require to be washed the ribbon is easily taken out, and after the washing process haa been completed, it can just as easily be replaced. Of course they look a great deal more dressy than the i ordinary turn-down linen collar. Curiously, however, as it has been pointed out to mc, the inventor of this new idea has not given I a name to his invention, and when wanted, j ladies always ask for the new " loop collars," which are how to be obtained all over London, and the provinces also I believe. Probably | ere long youwill have them out in New Zealand, if they have not already made their appearance there, for in many ways—especially in the matter of small details liks this — New Zealand is nearly, if not quite, as up to date as Loudon. Cntfc, of course correspond. It is thought that the Russian blouse ha. already been too widely adopted and become popular too soon in to last through another* season, though it is confidently expected that H will remain the fivourito style ~6f bodice during the coming months. The newest form of trimming adopted for these Russian'blouses is. to have, the turndown collars and reyera cut all in one. Soma brides are wearing wedding dressss of whits chiffon, but white Irish poplin Is much move ge««al, the foriuer being too perishable and extravagant for the indulgence of any but the very rich. ■ • -*

Long boas of far have entirely run their course. Except by a few people who have excepttontUy good ones In tome valuable far; they are not worn at all, and I doubt if it would be possible to buy one this season if one were to make enquiries for this form of wrap at any good shop. ' However, seme ladies who do own a nice long, fuH valuable fur boai wear it despite the dictates ot fashion.

Toques are in endless variety, bnt ths shape just now considered the " smartest" beam the name of «« Sappho." It has three points, one Coming in front, and one at each Bide, and these three points.are made a* prominent as possible, that on the left aide being greatly accentuated by an ostrich feather standing out horizontally. . They are, ia my ( thinking, extremely hideous, but opinions differ widely on this as on all other qusstionst relating ,to the dress question generally. Chenille and straw plaited together is still a favourite mixture for the ..foundation.of. a toque or bonnet, and sometimes two contrasting shades are used. . Bound the crowns of some .of the bats, we have' a full ruche of ooq feathers and an aigrette of the «*me standing at one side AH hats oontinue to be profusely trimmed under the brim. In Paris, lam told, it is the fashion just at present for hats to be tilted -much off the face* by means .of a wreath of roses being.placed underneath. But flowers of no. description are used on the .newest millinery in London to-day.

If I were to say that " everyone " is wsaring some soft of fis just now, that would perhaps be rather an exaggeration. But I naayeay that numbers of ladies and girls are, and the kind most liked is a pi—d -smmw It is kaottsd >ratae» loosely aml eeMilesslyin a moderate sized bow at the throat and forms s> finish either to a blouss, or else to a tailormade, a momlng ot a cycling ooetmrnv ; By thesray, mentioaing ths word "tailormc that this style of dresa has , become soma what revolutionUed.. for i .wbtseps-,e> jdress of this description uasd formerly to be made with a perfaosly ani tightly fitting bedict. Its boitee now partakes qt the nature ot the everlasiing Rossia* bl*T*ritv. piwidiw*(g'rrT*bf at Ihe badri The skirt ftta U>o pigs nlpp-fr s«d •*> do the sleeves to the arms, but that ie all, •rrd _ is- this k-d of eoetwae tbat is aot> ' deuig—d^^'tsih^-—nde.'' v \ OaaM*udeaUmfrs-yat-edt_it_oune»u skirta.will be a regular astabliiihmsnt ere long. . and Jba»- no sktft wfaaUrer: wifl be minaaa —>smee of aoms sort. At grunt fte majerity ot those used an vary sesalt and UMrowf:bM <m« ooeaßia-stly dom asesse. eikirt nounce eeneUng —est -mm to bs—. aaotber variety fa that which partakes of themitore ofatffple _M having its nounow est straight, rood, or the in Vsodyksfsahlnn this latter ay the way. is I beueer, rather poMder in Peel* et- preasat. 'Some .jlp".ttiir lh_ig; others am dstsehed; and some have jso lining at aH. Bat _ass -tear are' in a-gre— minority. BAk eootinnes to be the favottrHs li_ng f _ iku*ts, Ihoatfl it wears wrete-»dly. I hare emitted to assattse that seme flounce* (CMsely adersi the front bteadtsr of a skirt' others «c all teoaii. in Vandyke style, 'ah* others. _ width-in feet there a endless variety way in w_ab —ess tr—uniogs ate need;'and tl»sy will befort b»g becotpe mudi anas—' _en -let ate to-day. * Worse bidf! -Tneke' too, are naoeb. in voarns, bnt gsbecajQy cannot be too smalt:' They —so are — Vandyke mode, and X grsntly iesl for the poor dreaamj—er who has thus to ma_pulate bar maMriai: > To sum af then, Ithink lam safs ia laying Ussttebetntte- the tip-top d the -OMOO aoale*.one must wear a. cost—ns having the RmM_a blooae bodies* with a _sdsfbott jewelled-elasped belt, a kng _m gold jewslsd chiin rM-dtbs _-_4aas_ds a .small heart,, aoft of laoe et a—ffea at the throat and wrists. .T—■ of asorse«Mii— to an indoor costritna. but tytia, mptr. ii required to maks.it apfay eetsalry to «oe for cut of deem. *. v; •',»■ . ABnt*.