LONDON FASHION NOTES.

Press, Volume LIV, Issue 9920, 28 December 1897, Page 2

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

[Weitten Specially for the Wbbkly .Pkbss.] London, September 10. At the beginning of this week I was shown one or two models in what I was told ■would be the newest and correct style for our winter jackete this coming season. They differ greatly from any that have ever been in vogue before, at least so far back as I can remember. They partake somewhat of the nature of the well-known Russian blouse. Of the two which I saw, one was in dark blue cloth, the other in dark green. In cut they were exactly the same, but they differed somewhat in the style and the material of the trimming. Their length, was fully three-quarter, that is to say that they would quite reach the knees, and the basque in each case was absolutely devoid of fulness at the front and sides and even at the back. Of flutes there were none, but from the waistline downward at the back there were two double box pleats which constituted the only fninesa in the skirt, part of these jackets. No joining of the basque to the bodice part was discernible, for in each case it was hidden by a straight, but moderately wide, belt which fastened at one side. In each case too, the sleeves were small but far from being at all tight. The latter new model, that in the green cloth, had a yoke, pointed back and front, a high collar and also deep cuffs of beautiful rich sable ; and there was a narrow edging of the same fur all down the front of the coat. In this instance the belt was one of the "fancy" variety, and was principally green and gold, studded with jewels, the most prominent being emeralds. On the second coat, the one in blue box cloth, there were trimmings of black military braid and black astrakhan. The black braid patterned the bodice part of the back of the jacket, and alio ornamented the sleeves from the wrist; to some distance above the elbow in a lattice work design/ Here, the astrakhan formed revere, moderately large, and also edged the front of the jacket. Round the waiet there was a belt of corded black ribbon faeUaed with »jewelled bvokl*.

Now of course I cannot say that this will be the orthodox style for the season. If so, I doubt greatly whether it will last longer than for that period. On some figures it would doubtless look most becoming, but I am afraid it would have the opposite effect on the generality of us. It is sure to take us some little time to become thoroughly accustomed to jackets made in this way, and I can scarcely think that they will really " take," although for my own part I rather like the style, and, when worn by a person possessing the requisite figure, it would doubtless look most stylish. But the popular verdict has not yet been given, though we will not be left long in suspense, for there are many indications of a rapidly approaching autumn, and within the last week everything at all light in colour and texture has looked decidedly shivery and out of place. People are now living in warm coats and skirts and some even already have started fur necklets. And yet this is only the beginning of September! But perhaps we shall have a spell of fine and bright weather even yet, though I suppose it will be accompanied by a keen air, making us all careful to be sufficiently warmly clad-

Th«ge three-quarter length jackets are in great contrast to the much shorter and fiuted-basque variety which were worn so much last winter. There is no getting away from the faot that the new cut of jacket, though all very well while in fashion, will leave a distinct mark on its period, and it is not a style which could well be worn again next year unless it were still fashionable. With many other varieties this is not so, and I have no doubt that people who invested in new and expensive coats last winter will not hesitate to wear them again on this occasion all through the season. It ia only people to whom money is no object who can go in for everything fresh that is brought out, and who when tired of a thing can go and invest in something else.

For a good many months capes have not been worn, capes, that is to say, of the useful variety made in various kinds of tweed and cloth. Fortunately they have not been necessary. Of course there have been those made in silk, chiffon, or embroidered gauze, and trimmed with jet and fluffy frills, which have been worn by rather matronly and elderly people. Now, however, that the weather is so early becoming autumnal, warm capes are again being worn, and it is anticipated that they will be all through the cold seasons. So far, however, the majority being worn now are those which were put away by their owners at the end of last season. While bodices and sleeves are so elaborately trimmed with chiffon, lace, &c, it is improbable that capes will not be much resorted to, for such perishable materials cannot be stuffed into a tightly fitting jacket without losing all freshness.

There are only a few of the new capes which I have yet seen —but nothing really very new is to be seen anywhere for it is too early in the season—and I cannot say that the style of make or cut has changed in the slightest, nor has any other material sup. planted that fine and glossy-surfaced cloth known in Paris as gazelle's skin. Some of the capes are strapped, and all are trimmed more or less elaborately, the new embossed leather being much used for this purpose just now. Pale grey, drab, and fawn coloured cloth are the favourite shades. One cape which I saw was in fawn gazelle skin—that particular shade of fawn which shows a pinkish tone—and this was closely strapped with its own material. Each of the strappings showed on either side a narrow piping of pale pink satin, and the collar was arranged likewise, this happy combination producing a very pretty effect.

Then there are some other capes which partake more of the nature of wraps and are made in box cloth or tweed and fasten well over on the left side in a point near the storm collar with a large handsome button. This style of cape is really doublebreasted. But, as I mentioned some months ago, it was discovered that people who constantly wore capes' in lieu of jackets suffered from rheumatism in their arms. Perhaps one is not quite so liable to take cold in that form so early in the season, and therefore capes at first will be quite as much worn—probably more worn— as jackets, though it is anticipated that these latter will have the preference later on.

All through the spring and summer months some girls have been making frights of themselves by selecting to wear with their coat and skirt, or skirt and blouse, costumes, a hideously ugly and unbecdming style of silk tie. All colours have been general. These ties are narrow round the neck and are knotted at the throat in the usual manner, only as tightly as possible, gradually widening as they descend, and by tht time the waist is reached the tie has spread out to the whole width of the wearer, taking away of course the graceful lines of the figure. The ends of the tie eventually disappear in the waistbelt. If the wearer of one of these horrid things happened to have on a jacket which fastened at the throat or across the chest, but open at the lower part, one might easily imagine that the tie, as thus seen, was a blouse. So the width of it can readily be pictured. Anina.