LONDON FASHION JOTTINGS

Press, Volume LIV, Issue 9882, 12 November 1897, Page 3

LONDON FASHION JOTTINGS

[WaiTTß.v Specially fob the Wbekly Pkess.] London, September 17. , In reality, though the manufacturers are sending out great quantities of satin, cashmere, and cloth, there are but* few indications of any decided novelty just yet in the drese material line. Satin cloth of a very fine texture and glossy snrfacs is being shown to some extent, not only in plain orself colours, but also in small checks and stripes. Popline give promise of being favourites a little later on, and already the Duchess of York and other leaders of fashion have appeared in haudsome costumes of poplin, some of which have been bedecked with, lace and velvet, and the combination of the three materials has been a happy and most attractive one. Then tartans, which have been much to the fore in Paris for a long while, are a promised revival over here, but to nearly everyone they are so disfiguring, as they apparently tend too much to broaden the size of the wearer. However, plaids are among the new season's goods in woollen and silken materials alike, and some of the plaids are simply enormous, one check, I should think, being sufficiently large to form the whole back of a bodice. But perhaps there is a slight exaggeration here ! Then again there are mixtures of silk and wool woven in many and varied designs. Some have a raised pattern, and others are spotted, sprigged or figured in an arabesque design. But in this class of material the newest pattern is that known in Paris as "Shower of Rain." So far I have not yet seen this particular design myself, but I have had it described to mc and will therefore try and give you some idea as to what it is like. The material itself is of fine, self-coloured wool, and with it is woven " short, loose ends of silk somewhat after the fashion of the points of wool in Indian cashmere." These threads of silk, which, I am told, lend a very bright and glittering appearance, are sometimes the same tint as the material itself, but they are not infrequently of a darker or lighter shade, or else white, or again of a contrasting tone.

Velvet, it goes without saying, will again hold its own for blouses for day and evening wear, as well as for complete dresses for both occasions. A few of the velvet blouses v which have yet made their appearance are very simply made and merely brightened by means of a few pretty buttons and a light looking lace and chiffon jabot at the neck. Later on far will be used as a trimming for them, with perhaps the addition of a little jet or coloured passementerie. But the plainer a velvet blouse is the nicer it looks.

There are rumours afloat that the leading Parisian and some of the best English dress, makers, are fully determined to introduce

trimmed skirts, making them take the place of the plain variety, and it has been announced that "plain skirts are in all cases superseded by the new models." lam told that one fashionable costumier recently refused to make a plain cashmere skirt for one of his customers. Beside the latest style of flouncing—that of having six of graduating depth, the top one being met by a pointed handkerchief drapery all round—some of the new skirts are to have round the hips gatherings on six or seven cords. This style is hideously unbecoming except for the very slightest of the slight who seemingly are minus hips. Of course it becomes doubly bulky when it is used in the construction of winter woollen materials which are invariably thick and heavy.

Small flounces which trim the foot of the skirl are generally edged with a row of narrow ribbon velvet, or eatin ribbon, or else the little fringes which were greatly iv vogue years ago and which are now once more being called into requisition. This class of trimming is most often black. Beaded passementeries are going slowly out, after a highly successful reign of several seasons, and in their placo we are to have braid, little ruchings of silk or of the material, narrow ribbon velvet, or else the above-mentioned fringe. I think it is a pity that fringes are again being re-intro-duced. They always look so raggy. But on autumn coats and bodices as well as on skirts, braiding is all the rage, the back seams of the bodices being outlined with it in military fashion, while the bodice fronts show endless braided designs, many of which, are very pretty. Ris black braid which is most used, no matter what may be the shade of the dresslmatorial. Consequently many of the combinations, particularly certain shades of brown braided with black, are fearfully dingy. But relief may be found by having white or cream or some light contrasting shade of cloth under the braiding, and one shows off the other to much better advantage and altogether greatly' enhances the appearance of the whole costnine.

It is ireely stated that the time is not far distant when trained skirts will be revived. But not, let us hope, for street wear. They are enough bother at any time, but in the daytime they look and soon get dreadfully draggle-tailed, get in the people's way and collect all the filth of the streets. Until

they take a firm hold, I will not believe that people will be so idiotic as to countenance their revival.

There is still one more forecast with which 1 have just become acquainted. That is the redingote dress is spoken of as an attractive novelty for the near future.

From oho of the most fashionable West End dressmakers I learn that tailor-made gowns will have their bodices made with habit basques, or else with several smal) tabs. Pointed backs; are also being marie, but not to such a large extent and before long they will be quite eupcrceded by the habit back, a style which has not been in for a good many years. Tabbed basques will only be the craze for a time, but habit backs will come to stiy.

For a long lime it has sesmed to mc that ashions with regard to millinery have been at a very low ebb, but now, although winter fashions are not authentically declared, I have one or two r.otes which msy_ prove of interest. At the present moment doubtless the most fashionable material for hate and toquea is a beautifully soft rich fabric that catches the light and shade, and has a surface which sometimes'reminds one of Lyons velvet, and when seen in a different light recalls silken pluab. This nev/ millinery material is known ac antique satin. It is used in the compilation of hats in the boat shape order, in the picture order, and also in those worn for travelling, as well as for toques. It may be had in all shades and one day recently I saw some of it used for trimming a dress.

Light-coloured straws a3 a rule look cold and cheerlese now, and especially when trimmed with chiffon, muelin and lightcoloured ribbon. So this class of hat is being put away. But sun Panama straws are still worn and are simply trimmed with velvet and a large aigrette. This is an immensely popular style of headgear.

The best toques and many of the best hate have a jewelled crowa and a velvet brim, or vice versa. The tam-o'-shanter crown is still in to a certain extent, but there is not the rage for it which prevailed when the fashion

was first introduced. However, this is no , by any means a drawback—rather the re verse. It really wae too dreadful whet hundreds of people clapped on tanvo'-shantei crowns of velvet on to an old straw hat. The wonder to, mc ifl that tam-o'-shantei crowns are in at all now considering how dreadfully common they at once became. Velvet and cloth hate with this sort of crown will have folds of lighter velvet round the brim and an aigrette at one side. Feathers will be much to the fore on fel and velvet hats, but nothing seems to be so prominent a feature in the millinery world as birds and wings. Many of the former are most beautiful oreaturea, and are principally white in tone. What will the Selbourne League say to this fashion? 1 must confess ib will be terribly hard t« resist one of these lovely creatures. There are many varieties of aigrettes, the majority of which are pretty, fluffy and soft looking, particularly the variety known as "lamb's tail feather." But there is no doubt that just for the present flowers are taking a ''backseat." They are really comparatively seldom seen. Chrysanthemums ore being brougbt forward as the most appropriate bloom of the season, and before long violets will make their re-appearance. A little later on fur will be used in the construction of hats, bonnets and toques, in combination with velvet, and lace will also appear with it. Then, perhaps, flowers, particularly violets, will be more prominent than) they are just now. flats still ere of the upward turn and .are likely to .remain so. In Paris, veils are becoming conspicuous by their absence. There are plenty of people, however, who still cling to this protection and they are favouring blaok mesh dotted sparsely with small white epota. For travelling some people are wearing their veils tied in American fashion, that is tied round the hat and passing again to beneath the ohm where they fasten. It is too soon yet to talk about furs, but) it is said that the white varieties are to corns into favour, especially ermine, while white crested grebe will probably be in' again after its long spell of seclusion, though most likely this latter will be used more lor edging the new redinorotes. Ostrich feather boas and necklets are all the rage at the present time and the favourite tones are white and natural coloured. They are most becoming and soft looking, especially when nice and fulL Of course they are expensive.