PARISIAN AUTUMN MODES.

Press, Volume LIII, Issue 9365, 14 March 1896, Page 3

PARISIAN AUTUMN MODES.

Felix still continues to make the skirts of dresses short, close on the hips and gored at the seams, put in at the waist behind in two large pleats, but begins to trim the lower part a little with bands of fur or velvet. He is also trying to bring in bodices pointed in front with a little postillion basque at the back, close-fitting, and much trimmed. For evening dresses, with low pointed bodices, the large Marie Antoinette fichus are much in vogue. The materials that Felix is making up are velvet (novelty), velvets with cashmere shades, also new and used for blouses ; plush moire, rich brocades in the Genoa style, with dull ground and shaded velvet flowers; shaded moires (also new), _c. Among the woollens are cloth, serge, coarse white canvas, velveteens, either plain or ribbed—these last for walking or race meetings. Almost any colour can be worn, but bleu de Sevres and bleu de roi are favourite shades of blue; and also various shades of dark green are much used. For over garments, the capes are made with large sleeves, jackets have short fluted basques, redingotes are only made in the richest materials with coloured silk linings.

Hats and bonnets have not much changed either; capotes, toque.?, etc., are all made of velvet, in folds or crumpled, and then there is what they call "paille de soie" with chenille woA*en in ; this is neAv. Jime. Cofcmb, rue de la Paix, makes hats of a moderate size, and rather flat, but heavily trimmed with ostrich feathers, bows of ribbon, and tall aigrettes. The capotes are ornamented Avith velvet choux. or.velvetroses or poppies of the richest hues. Also chrysanthemums begin to appear. A capote had a low crown of black astrachnn, and was finished Avith red and pink velvet roses, som» en rnchcpeipve, and a large aigrette of black feathers. A black felt hat was turned up at the back with orange velvet poppies, folds of velvet on the brim, at the back a plume of black feathers, and at the side a black and white aigrette. A toque had a crown of crumnled orange A-elvet, 3nd trimmed w-';-> ?>..-.'ded orange and flamecoloured c::i"vs;-.ii*.h?mums ; an nisrrctte sprin.ginir f---'>m !.>'•• ek lace Aein-.'s, and two small jet wi•-._■* with a paste ornament in the centre of each.

In genpral the tri-r.r.ving is arranged rather wide and spre-td out. placed either at the back or sides ; the aigrettes are immense, cut ilat at the top (aigrette colonel), or else left easy, .springing from :v mass of short feather or tips. The straight feathers, like quills, called covtfanx, are much in vogue placed at tiie side in bows of A-elvet.

Another autumn costume Avas of black ribbed velveteen, the skirt made plain, and jacket of the same Avith black satin rever covered with spangled embroidery : capote of black chenille straw Avith large choux of Avhite tulle, from which rose a tall aigrette of pink velvet roses. I remarked also a plain dress of black satin couche (a new make): Avitsh this was worn a collet or cape of tomato-red cloth covered with black braiding ; black chenille capote, with enormous boAvs of deep yellow velvet.