BREAKING-IN OF YOUNG HORSES.

Press, Volume LIII, Issue 9339, 13 February 1896, Page 2

BREAKING-IN OF YOUNG HORSES.

A. G. Burchard-Ashton in the Live Stock Journal. I do not think it matters very much whether we speak of breaking or training colts, as long as we make them do what we want. Professor Sheldon thinks that it is best done by kindness, and Mr F. Hill by fear. I should be inclined to say a little of both and a good deal cf patience were the best.

A good many years' experience has taught mc that you cannot lay down any fixed rules for breaking. No doubt cart colts can be broken very easily. A friend of mine bought a full-grown Clydesdale stallion that had nover baeti handled and had run loose oa a raniiiie ail its life. He got it lassoed and put in harness in a waggon, and it pulled at once. On the other hand, a well-bred colt will fight, if it is any good, and any thing with the mustang blood in it will fight harder still, but they can be broken and made into perfect hacks for a lady if taken the right way. For such as these the old Spanish-American method is the best, and by it a full-grown wild horse can bo made into a delightful mount, but there are few men who understand it. Of course, a foal should be handled, but even foals sometimes want a little correction. Familiarity breeds contempt, and horse-play is rough. I remember making a pet of a colt out of a Chilian mare, perhaps the gamest breed in the world. One day my brother went to catch another horse, and took some 'oats.. The colt came for some, and was given a few, but when he found he could not get any. more, he turned round and kicked my brother with both feet. Now, I should not care to get a kick, even in play, from any of Professor Sheldon's colts. I have at present a filly that, when a few months old, used to walk up to anyone in the field, and, when close to, wheel round and lash out— play, of course, but still unpleasant. I learnt most from a Kentucky man, and if you think it of interest to your readers I will tell you how I begin. I first drive the colt into a box, and then take a little cane or switch, and rub its back with the end of it. If the colt turns away, I hit him on the rump—riot hard, and he soon learns to stand let mc handle him, first with the stick and then with my hand; and, beginning from his body, I work up to his head, and so get a head-collar on. I don't like Mr Hill's plan oflassoing a colt; it is never necessary in this country; but if it is done, a knot should be tied on the rope to prevent the noose running homo and choking the horse.

After the halter I put on a surcingle and crupper* and then a smooth snafflo, or an india-rubber snaffle, and pass a piece of small rope through the crupper and bring the ends one through each ring of the snaffle, tie them together, and fasten a long leadingrein to them. . ; Then I teach the colt to lead, holding the rein short, and walking near his shoulder, using a switch or a long breaking whip to touch him behind. With this tackle, if a colt hangs back, the pull comes on the crupper, and there is no danger of his rearing up and throwing himthey will do sometimes if the pull comes on the head. ~ When the colt will lead, he may be driven with long reine. I put a pair of rings on the surcingle about half way down his sides, and lead the driving-reins through them. . If you find the, colt bends his neck too much and gets his head too low, the y reins can be put higher; but at first it is better to keep them low, as the outer rein catches the hind-leg above the hock, and prevents the colt turning sharper than is wanted. When I can drive them easily m an open field and on the road, I put them into my break ; this ie made of two long larch poles like shafts, connected at the butts by two cross pieces, and fitted with staples for the traces and breeching. The polee are about 12 or 14ft. long, and the butts trail on the ground, so there is nothing for a horse to hurt himself against if he kicks, and, as it is very light, they make no difficulty about drawing it, and it teaches them to turn a trap round. Weight can be added gradually, and then they can be put into a light trap and driven, if possible with a steady horse in double harness; but if that is not convenient, they can be put in a dog-cart. At first I use a safety line, put on as follows. Take a piece of thin rope, about as thick as a lead pencil, and tie it round the lower jaw with a bowline knot; bring the end round the horse's neck, and put it through the loop on the jaw ; then take it back to the trap, and let an assistant hold it. This is called the " Indian war bridle," arid is extremely powerful. A pull on it will stop a colt from bolting or kicking. I have described my way of breaking colts to harness first, because I have lately be»jn breaking poniea, and am too heavy to ride them. After I have driven them a little, I find niy little boy, aged nine, can ride them, and I have never had a kicker. '•_• I have driven a two-year-old as leader in a tandem, with a steady pony as wheeler, the young one having only been once in the trap before.