GARDEN NOTES.

Press, Volume LIII, Issue 9304, 3 January 1896, Page 6

GARDEN NOTES.

" Weekly Press and Referee."' The month of June is the usual period chosen by Home growers for placing Chrysanthemums in the pots in which they are to flower, although late struck plants that will afford the latest blooms may be potted in July, but there is no fixed rule. The best guide in tiiis matter is the condition of the plants. When the pots in which they have been growing become filled with roots, then is the proper time to repot, never letting the roots get matted before repotting. The risks of getting the roots matted together are great; growth is checked, and the plants may lose their lower leaves when their retention is most useful to them.

To the inexperienced, the potting of Chrysanthemums may not appear of any more importance than the potting of any other softwooded plant, but first-class blooms cannot be obtained from stems that are soft and sappy, the result of improper potting. When Chrysanthemums are loosely potted they grow stroncly, and prodtice large leaves, but such growth is generally wanting in solidity and firmness, and without these attributes no first-class plants can be produced. Firm potting induces slow growth, which is solid, and therefore likely to mature perfectty. The potting compost needs care in preparation ; and although it is of much importance, it is not the sole element of successful culture, after-management playing a great part also. Chrysanthemums having but a short season of growth, and much to do in a few months, all the nutriment they can assimilate should be afforded. Soils differ so much in different parts of the country, that no rule can be laid down as to what mixture is the best. Loam, as it is called, should, of course, form the principal part, and the more turfy or fibrous the better. Some loams contain much move of nutritive ingredients than othere, and where this is the case Chrysanthemum culture is simplified. Rich pasture loam is the best, but that from poor pasture is of little use. Lime, in soma form or other, is essential to Chrysanthemums, and must be supplied, if not present naturally in the soil. Pounded oyster-shells form a convenient means of affording this mineral, and quicklime is useful in small ciuantities in destroying worms present in the soil; for by incorporating a few handfuls when turning over the compost-heap, the worms are destroyed, and the lime intimately mixed with the soil. Charcoal is of much value as a sweetener of the soil, and as a means of storing ammonia for the plant's use, and is also very useful for mixing with heavy loams. Heavy loam is improved if the fine particles are sifted out of it, the tufty part only beine used for potting purposes. To three parts of loam, add one part of partially decayed Icafmould, one part of stable manure, prepared as though for forming a Mushroom bed; adding charcoal, silver sand, and wood-ashes in quantity according to the- nature of the loam. To every bushel of the compost, add 21b of Thomson's Vine Manure. The pots, of 9in in diameter, should be well crocked with lumps of fibry loam abovo the crocks, or what is better still, some freshly-cut turf, thoroughly soaked in liquid manure. Some gardeners err in using pots of very large size, for no variety requires one larger than 9in in diameter. If the stock consists of 10 or llin pot 3, it is better to place two plants of one variety in a pot. Pot firmly, especially tho3e of the incurved section. If the soil is moistened throughout when the potting is done, the plants should not require to be watered for several days afterwards, but the foliage should bs moistened at leaet twice daily—night and morning.— E. Molyneux in the Gardeners' Chronicle.