JACKETS AND MANTLES

Press, Volume LII, Issue 9162, 20 July 1895, Page 4

JACKETS AND MANTLES

The cape, the jacket, and the long pelisse or redingote are still the leading styles, bat so many changes are rung on these, the shapes, the trimmings, and the materials vary to such an extent, and the wraps are, on the whole, so practical and elegant, that no room is left for regret at the lack of more startling novelties. - Amongst the many charming models are some Parisian carriage mantles in coloured velvet, that are particularly elegant; one of these is a green velvet cape in a very novel shape: the fronts form a kind o! half-fitting pointed bodice, the sides fall in points over the arms, the back, also pointed, is a Watteaa pleat drawn in at either side of the waist by a blaok satin ribbon sash. The edge is trimmed with black passementerie guipure, the short shoulder cape covering the yoke and the collar are trimmed with fur. Another Parisian novelty, in blue velvet this time, is a combination of a jacket front with a mantle back; the sleeves, in gtgot shape in front, end in a kind of wing behind joined to the side scams of the back; pockets are placed on the basques in front, and the large high collar is lined and bordered with black feathers. Jet bretelles and jet ornaments on the sleeves, pockets, &c, complete this very stylish and uncommon mantle. A really exquisite jacket in sapphire blue velvet, with deep added basque immensely wide at the edge, has the bodice part ornamented with a corselet and yoke of jet and blue spangle embroidery connected by festoons of black beads; long strands of jet beads falling also on the basque; the large gtgot sleeves are in the new shape, very fall and drooping below the elbow at the back, and a collar and can's in the finest chinchilla far give an appropriate finish. Black mantles, however, predominate, and the best models ore made of velours da Nord, than which no finer mantle material has ever been introduced. The capes in this material are made in different lengths, either short or medium, but all lie flat on the shoulders, where they are fitted without seams, and are excessively fall at the edge, falling from the shoulders in gradually extending folds round the figure. A very pretty and moderately priced capo, costing four and a half guineas, is in this velours dv Nord, very richly beaded by band over the shoalders, down the front, and round the edge in a handsome pattern. The collar is bordered with feathers. Another cape, longer than this, and with a silk pocket attached to the band, drawing in the back at the waist, has a short shoulder cape edged with far and veiled by a deep collar of ecra guipure embroidered with gold and spangles. A very handsome mantle for an elderly lady, «rith long, square mantilla ends in front and cape at the back, is richly ornamented with jet embroidery and fringed with feather tassels: above these is a heading of tip 3, and the collar is bordered with larger tips. Stylish capes, made in velvet and in cloth, are ornamented all round, from shoulder to edge, with silk or jet passementerie in long points, and have a band of Thibet fur round the yoke and collar. New materials. for pelerines are crashed plash, an admirable imitation of caracul far, a thick corded black silk with serpentine pattern in shot or plain colours, and fine cloth pierced in designs and embroidered with silk or jet. A short cape in a warm shade of mastic cloth is pierced with rows of holes in graduated sizes, large at the edge and smaller towards the top, each hole being encircled by a ring of small jet beads, and having a black sequin hanging loose from the top of the hole. Under this is a longer cape of black satin bordered with brown far, and the satin yoke is embroidered with jet. The fronts are turned back with revere of satin and far, and joined by a smart draped bow in pink velvet and black satin. Very, stylish fa a long sleeveless coat in black velours da Nord, lined with black and coloured striped moire. On each side of the full pleated skirt is & panel beautifully embroidered with jet and steel over appliques of lavender silk. A doable-pleated cape takes the place of sleeves, and feather trimming round the shoulders and collar complete tliig operb vStement.