DRESS AND FASHION NOTED.

Press, Volume LI, Issue 8989, 31 December 1894, Page 2

DRESS AND FASHION NOTED.

LONDON AND PARISIAN MILLINERY. Burnt straw is still the fashion in bonnets, and many of these are made up with flower crowns and with bows of ribbon, having the watering outlined with jet beads. The Mercury wings are sec quite at the back in such a fashion that they move as the wearer moves, and as a-. bird uses them when he begins to fly. In Paris few strings are worn, but we seem; to prefer them in England ;/ and many of: them start from a rose. Never.was the; queen. of flowers more .popular, and it appears to be thrownj>6fcemsi leaves, andafi, on to the brims and crowns of hats. The shamrock is a new and popular shape; for bonnets, and we cling to toques; but perhaps the greatest novelty are the wheel bonnets, made of three or four circles of straw. Forget-me nots are the mode, together with wallflowers, clover, and velvet bloom* of all sorts. I am afraid I shall have to get together a new stcck of adjectives before I can hope to deal properly with the bonnets. How r ever, there was a large hat, which I will try to describe. It was a cream Leghorn straw, with a big picturesque brim, and long, broad bands of heliotrope moire ribbon. There was a coquettish heliotrope ribbon rosetto above each ear, just where the strings started. The outside of the brim was trimmed with a huge cluster of cream and pale yellow feathers and a heliotrope moire bow. There is a great craze j for black flowers, black violets particularly. The new straw hats are to be had in all the popular colours—in heliotrope, turquoise, Tuscan pink, plum, ana nearly every shade of green. The coarse straws are exceedingly pretty and decorative, in such shades as turquoise-blue and eau de Nil. A fantastic hat of heliotrope straw was decorated with three bunches of yellow primroses, and had a bandeau of black roses under the brim. Hats carry considerably- more trimming than they did a little while ago, when it was the fashion to have one disconsolate-looking bow on a hat by way of ornament. There are a great many novelties in veils, and fresh ones are cropping up every day. White spots and borders are largely affected, but tbere is nothing to beat a pretty black spotted veil. It is said that hats will be enormous this season. - On the whole, they are certainly larger, and the shapes are more whimsical and impossible than lasteeason. The prettiest bonnet I have seen this week j consisted of a large single rose,--*; cabbage rose in size; but looser in composition, and, therefore more elegant—with' the tiniest' soupson of pink velvet showing beneath a wide bow of black at the back. The strings wero of black velvet. It was a most fascinating bonnet, but would require careful putting on. In the inventing of novelties we are reduced to taking ideas for millinery from the ordinary playingcard. Another lovely little bonnet I noticed was composed ot a " club " in black velvet covered with little pink roses, and n wide black bow which was placed at the back. The stilugs were also black. It was an adorable bonnet, and I shouldn't wonder if the cle\er artist who put It together had the spirit of a gambler in her.

DRESS TRIMMINGS.

All kinds of detached pieces are made as plastrons and vests to bodices, most of them in a bold scroll work of open jet, inclosing appliques of brilliant velvet, such as peach pink, which showß up admirably against the jet, while others have a background of gold cloth. Most of these are 6 to S inches deep for trimming, and perhaps 12 inches for the plastron. Others of these beautiful garnitures are filled in with an, embroidery of coloured chenile, jet and pearls are also mingled, and an exquisite trimming In gold and jet_represents orchids, intermixed with the Renaissance scroll. This Idea is repeated oyer and over: again, and there are trimmings for skirts, ■ bodices, and epaulettes, with occasionally large beautiful collars; the price is always. high, the galons costing several guineas ayard. The designers have treated jet in every, variety of form. They have cut it into, large long pieces, round nailheads, paillettes, and open worked designs, and then. they have applied it to net, and.inter- ■] spersed it with metal, but all are beautiful, j aud this sort of trimming is quickly super- ; j seding ribbon. Blue iridescent steel is much the fashion, and it has been made up into straight-; edged insertion, and toothers with waved I edges, and the present style of draping gowns this season-makes it imperative that something should be introduced either at the edge or at the drapings. A number ' of. beautiful moire scarfs have been pre- i pared for the neck, edged with the most beavtiful jet netted work, bordered with | jet fringe, and the introduction of sicgle beads in each strand of nettiug is a novel I feature in trimming. Fheshaded colouringsnow.in vogue have found their way into the large collarettes, and one of these, on a net ground, had a beautiful design like a waved ribbon ac the edge worked in .gold, with which here and there mingled oblong pieces of shot green and gold. Very large buttons will be worn, and paste buttons are greatly in demand, one of the prettiest revivals is a shaped buckle for the throat, oblong la form, made in paste or steel or silver, and intended to head the long Stelnklrk ties.

ACES

Pleated lane, kept in prace 'by bands of jet embroidery and atars of jet, .is in universal demand, and one of the new features in the trimmings is the Introduction of large pear-shaped pieces of let, which help to emphasise the designs. For evening and light gowns, white silk, silver, and pearl are often blended for shoulder trimmings. Guipure lacea in tho new butter colour, or, as it is called in Paris, "Isigny"—a place whence much butter comes—are of every possible kind; and there are many straw embroideries appliod to straightedged insertion and Intermingling with jet.

SUMMER DRESS MATERIALS.

The. materials are -.simply lovely this year.. Grenadines have made their reappearance in black. .Interwoven with a coloured silk lining, they have all the effect of the silk petticoat showing through the transparent meshes of the material. A barege striped with bine and green, with here and there a line of bright orange colour, makes a most original gown, white a cream coloured cfepon, figured with hyacinth blue, mauve, and

green, Is artistic to a degree, and a green crepon, with a spotted lace stri D _ ,4, pleasingly suggests summer. That dress _ ¥ made of one of the new grenadines, with * -T velvet stripe going round, and is feather. stitched with coloured silks. The ladies " *" is folded, and at the nock appears one of -" the Vandyke collars In lace of a pal* " !n yellow tone. These Vandyke collars, by the way, are obtaining aa enormous vobq_ in Paris; all tho Bummer dresses beaut their influence. A gown of pale gre ea canvas, interwoven with blue and pink and mounted on pale pink silk, bciu-K one of tbe'so collars round the shoulders, while at I he neck and the waist arc draped bands of bright cerise velvet. A oius voile costume has a skirt, mnde ot three * flounces, interwoven at tho hem with a '"' graduated yellow silic stripe; the bodice shows a box pleat down the centie t-f tits back and front, and a double yoka "- bordered with yellow silk edge. A black spotted moiro gown from/the :■- French capital had a double skirt, the upper cut in waved battlements, the lower one trimmed with jetted luce, while the bodice was extensively adorned with large jet cabochons. The sleeves were quits new, the longitudinal puffings divM-M by gathered bouillonnes of ciepe de Chine, Basques are said to be going out; this like most of the newest dresses, ended ac the wai9t. A black -wateredtmoiro wa«i trimmed in front with while St. Goar lace, studded with jet, und the demand for thl» exceeds the supply. I saw, especially, & very charming brown coat and skirt, trimmed with a band of blue, covered with brown cording, the waistcoat a roprodttc. tlon of the Guards* mess jaekofc in light blue cloth, with six dozen close stiver buttons down the centre of the front. Many of the waistcoats are now cut low without rever.s, and showing the shirts well.

There are the prettiest of fancy printed delaines, having cream, black, brown and Dink grounds, with and without, cream satin stripes, and printed with tho . daintiest floral sprays exactly suited to dresses designed, aa so many will be this year, after the period of Louis XV.— XVi. Tho fine Amazon and Vicuna cloths are brought out iv n louc range of light, and ''; dark tones, baize, tllieul, and serpent < greens, browns and fawns, old and new * pinks, and pretty greys. Any woman must be difficult to please who cannot find ~ what she needs here. The wool satin ■ cloths, with a smooth face, are coming to ' the front, and there are plenty of useful - check, stripes, and diagonal basket cloths ia black aud white, navy, and till colours for all kinds of gown for people of every condition. The Madura is a new and capital hopsack in pretty shot colourings, sucn as China blue, vieax-ro*«\ and green combined ; or heliotrope, Nile and brown, and toon. TheCelia is an inexpensive fancy armure in self colours, with a bright satinlike design that looks worth twice its price. While the Zelia is a combination of silk and wool jacquard suiting of dell, cate tones, combined as in old tapestry, differing, however, from the Niobe in that the silk effects in the latter appear to be thrown on a coarse canvas ground. Reps with upstanding silk cord on shot grounds will be much worn for spring cowns, and the shot crepous, such as tho Melanta and Imogen, in most artistic tones, mouse and red, blue and fawn, and so on. ( UNDER WEAR. Nightdresses of ideal besaufcy claim attention, made of 'the' fine-it batiste, with yokes and frills, embroidered in pale blue, pink, yejlow, and peach bloaaonit adorned with bows of white satin ribbon or with , colours to match. The " practical and pretty" nightdress, of fine nainsook, has two rows of insertion slightly confining It at the waist, aud a small pocket on tho left side of the bust with embroidered monogram. All these charming creations " being made on the premises, any sugge* tion by customers can be carried out. Stockings, not unimportant articles ot ' dress, are here displayed in every shade of silk-, with appropriate sprays of flowers worked on them. Those with miiiiona* were extremely natural, and others with lace fronts would bs very becoming to ClnderellaS worn with dressy dancing shoes. ' One petticoat in pale yellow, wi*h tiny rosebuds, is trimmed with a deep flounce headed by a ruche of satin ribbon, and edged with tiny frills of chiffon. Another ia of pench colour and green shot moire, with a flounce of cream coloured face pat on in Vandykes and tied wirh ribbons of - two colours. The latest novelty is a peitlcoat of white alpaca, which vaguely suggests the crinoline, with a suspicion of a bustle at the back formed of three frills of white alpaca, while the hem conceals a soft steel. /

FASHIONS FOR MOURNING.

Modern manners have so far changed the external expression of woe in mourning garments as to admit of its being even .decorative. Mourning has, indeed, uevar been more attractively presented than in ' the combination of new styles designed for this season. In the costume department there are - many well-expressed models which comblnb smartness and'aultabllUy* - "< A model, no less to be desired, for mourn- , . ing wear tharr other occasions, Was.a black Raiiu cloth dress made in Princesse shape, with sleeves\and revere of-dainty grey , striped silk. AZouave to be worn out ot , doors consisted chiefly of ft broad strap cleveriv arranged so, as to form deep turn* ( | down collar infront. It wis in accordance ' with the present mode,.- mere apology for -. the bolero of la»tßeason, but there was -" just sufficient of It to give an'out-of-doora -- air to the frock when adjusted, which Is all that the exigencies . and the present temperature seem to require: A simple but elegant dress was a dove*' coloured -woollen canvas made over shot grey silk. Its draped skirt, with trimmed side panel and full back, went wall with s distinctively smart bodice, the straight-cat back being gathered at the waist, white a full roll collar and vest of buff pique cou-. trasted admirably with the tone of tE* - Other material. A thick yellow lace, somewhat like macrame, covered rovers and cuffs, which latter were tight to the elbow, ; A fawn-coloured faced cloth skirt of light texture was advantageously combined with .- a bodice of shaded taffetas in dull with a small pattern in darker tones. - A - y. rich purple volvet yoke with black moire . h revere Under cream guipure insertion- : , made effective finishing touches on sleeves.- jand bodice. A black-flowered canvas ovet .i< ; pearl-grey satin makes up to admiration :i ] for a smart house frock, Another model.%; i was very girlish in style, of «rey poplinette .<, j | with yoke and sleeves of soft grey satin. p ; g Tinsel passementerie, of I gold, and allver, outlined these joins >v $ materials wfeh excellent effect. A umqo* -%. j Appearance was obtained with a dmICR, | vleu'x-rose velvet bodice and basque, the*;:-;'' | skirt being of fully draped | clctjo. A novel effect I* given by having;!?.;* | the box pleat at back cut short ro as g allow the vienx-rose velvet petticoat Ptigi) s show through beneath. Small black \ white checks, called Bhepherd's mM*m{< i promise to be favourites; some | hosiery to match theae checked | have also been introduced. Peter : son makes sleeveless coata with maoyflf f 1 his new costumes, a plan which | surmounts the opposition offered by 6lj«-f:4; r i inflated sleeve to the mantle. Those eoaM;.|s I are so admirably cut and fitted % sleeveless condition is not apparent* | ! Alpacas are in preparation In grey,, wh «f* "A-*t£ and black. The material is AeMfthltalif-yjs j cool and light, so, if the tropical weatber .]; j. progresses* it will not be too soon to tfttox ;: \ of and order the timely alpaca,. Capes «* ■; still in the ascendant. A becoming roooei { was cut with long square moire fronts,.I and a flounce of cream guipure headed »J a shoulder frill and ruff of the moire edged.,« . I with narrow jet. Another was j of deep moire flounces edged with crawfegf- | Insertion, a yoke andshoulderfrillof \ velvet, trimmed with spangled jet, I it an elegant finish. A handsome caj»«»£-|£ | middle-aged ladies was composed of I moire frills, edged with an acCordiou*Jp i pleated flounce of net and moire * with pointed front of velvet andjet. f tight-fitting velvet-coat, with large | and shoulder frill, was a symphony } black, deep fringes of jet falling «<"»/?*Hlsll shoulders at back ; the front arranged &s%m wide revers, covered with handsome coloured lace. Flowered moire'» latest development of that much wo "£jf I-11 material; and a jacket made in it, w| ";2f:fi|§ draped velvet bodice trimmed •Zonswis«|| fashion, looked exceedingly well. A*hO&&K jacket In moire, with fine black *dW?B3M was a novelty. The sleeves are immenee, with voluminous 1 loosely falling cream lace jabotv? ! are either very long or short, so that fashion may te said to * n no middle coarse. Everything • i ,„ffj|i| ; changed that one It compelled to P"|Skj£le reorganise one's wardrobe, no m last year's traditions being »6-eU ■*«?*;•*« sible. • ~ "-"i'V^VK