EVENING DRESSES.

Press, Volume LI, Issue 8817, 12 June 1894, Page 2

EVENING DRESSES.

Evening dresses atill have ruches at the hem, but it is the sleeves which cannot fail to attract attention. They are gigantic, with puffs which are shaped to the elbow in a manner that la altogether inexplicable. Many dinner gowns have bodices formed of puffings of chiffon, divided by horizontal band!) of gold, singularly light and graceful. In one bodice there is frequently a mixture of broche satin and velvet, each distinct in colouring, and the one opening over the other. White, rose, and blue are a charming mixture, and white, mauve, and green. Capes like those worn by Anne of Austria, turning downwards from the neck over the shoulder and bust,' and edged with lace, are borrowed from the period when the most graceful styles had sway. A triple collar is sometimes cut in the same style, but opens at the back and on each shoulder, the sleeves being of a distinctly different colour, such as green with mauve, or vieux-rose with rich lis de vln. Heavy point lace is draped on the low bodices, and kept in place by choux bows, made of satin, in two or three colours combined. Bodices entirely different from the skirt are the height of the mode, and a white and gold bodice would be considered a pretty complement to a black skirt. Some of the moat beautiful dresses of the day are made in black stamped velvet, and black satin is almost covered with jet, the sleeves being of two or three different coloured satins, while all the rest remains black. Black, yellow, and white are combined, and heliotropei rose and blue. The large, bold, watered moires, diversified by coloured pea spots, have shot grounds and often fan-shaped trimmings on the full graceful skirts. Vandyke laces, Vandyke tunics, and Vandyke trimmings are exceedingly fashionable, and long detached stole ends occasionally hang in front of the shoulders, bat more often In the middle of the back, and chiffon rosettes not unfrequeutly form a heading to lone transparent streamers. Moaaaeline de soie is nted, especially in such mixtures as orange and white, and charming low bodices are made with three capes of this material embroidered in gold sequins. The bodices now have no darts and hardly any seams, the material crossing under deep belts which end just beneath the bust. Velvets are nhlversally worn, and for bodices are cut in a new square form, with the big sleeves, wnich give great apparent and real width to the figure. A woman of fashion in full dress measures 3fe across from sleeve to eleeve. Nobody looks slight nowadays. A year or two ago we all tried to be as slender as possible, now we are trying how well-developed our figures can look, and in order, not to shorten the waist the beltk are often arranged to ft ire length. Paste buckle* &te Introduced on the shoulders, and they

show up well with the favourite dahlU tint. Swaying triages appear wherever ie is possible, and we are grown so luxurious, that we are noc concent with costly fur trimmings, but we are also lining our black velvet cloaks with chinchilla end other skins, that are visible just at the edge of the garment and at the revere. MUFFS Muffs are so gigantic, that some of them are costing £50 in expensive fur. But they are also made Iα velvet and satin, three corners being laid on the outside of the muff in diffeieut coloured satins. GLOVES. There is little new in gloves. Women with cold hands may have thera fur-lined and almost.any colour is now sold with black "finishings," a technical term which means that the band at the wrist is bl&ek, and the atitchiogs down the back of the hand. HOSIERY. There is not much novelty in stockings, but the spun silks are now made with broad ribs, hitherto associated with woollen goods, and they are to be had in boot bronze, brown, black, and many other colouring-". Cashmere stockings show any amount of variety in spots and other small designs, which now are generally carried quite to the top. The weavers are emulating the knitters, and the pretty patterns which we see in Scotland, worn for shooting and generally hand-knitted, are being applied in woven patterns to golf ho»e. These take the form of large diamonds, shaded, and of quaint checks, in which every kind of colour seems to be interblended, as grey, brown, yellow, and black melting into each other. There is a pretty ribbed silk stocking, which appears to have a black rim for the superstructure, and a bright colour beueath. and black blend well in this way, green and red, mauve and gold, and any Rort or description of gown can be matched. Pointed pieces of real and excellent imitation black lace are let into the instep of black and coloured silk stockings. They are singularly becoming to the skin, and are lees expensive than they used to be. The manufacturers have at last managed to xecure a pure black dye for thread, cotton. Lisle thread, cashmere, and spun silk. BLOUSES. What a mania there is for black and white I A white silk blouse con be made to look ornamental by trimming it yoke fashion with black lace, and bands of black lace; a frill over the shoulder, a belt of black lace, and oands of black lace insertion between the puffings on the sleeves, which end in deep ruffles. The new form of blouse is made rather full in front, with a band and all-round basque intended to be worn outside, not inside the dress, the trimming consisting of horizontal bands of white or hlack lace insertion lined with a colour. There are generally three such rows on the front of each blouse. Some are embroidered in black or white, and a good theatre bodice which comes under the head of blouse can be bought elaborately trimmed with cream lace, which covers the shoulders in frllU, or radiates from the neck in rows of insertion, or peeps in between the puftings of the sleeve. A more ambitious bodice is made in cherry-coloured silk, with an applique ot unlined black lace introduced at the top to form a low bodice, and quite i transparent. The ends of thn lace are ! carried down to a Zouave trimming on the bodice. TEA GOWNS. Some of the models were absolutely distracting. I maintain that a graceful woman looks her best in a tea gown, A charming model wae ot grey satin cut slightly low at the throat, and trimmed about the shoulders with a sort of deep frill edged with narrow steel trimming , . The glint of thie trimmiDg w»s particularly effective under the electric light. The front of the gown was bordered with steel on either side. Deepish frills of mellowlooking lace edged the sleeves. Roman satin is a delightful stuff for tea gowns. It has a remarkably rich sheen, and drape-* beautifully. There wan a " picture gown" ot thin omteritl in a soft shade of old-pink which pleased mc much. It had full, draped sleevts, with mellow lace on the cuffs, and a sore of pointed cape, covered with similar lace, adorned the bodice. My descriptive catalogue would not be complete if I omitted to cay something about ihe pretty things in morning robes to be seen here. A very taking model is of pink canvas cloth, with a fujl triple shoulder cape, each cape being edged with three' I rows of pink bebe ribbon. The front of the gown Iβ of pink Surah, confined at the waist by a folded band, adorned with two ! bebe ribbon A dainty gown t It I must be rather nice to be a breakfast beauty. The majority of women look their worst in the early morning. So the ohol«e of a breakfast gown ehould be a matter for rather more serious consideration than it is. Tea gown, designed by Worth, Paris. — Soft woollen material, gradually shaded from creamy white to dark chestnut brown; the lightest tint represents the hodice, whilst the deepest reaches to the edges of the three-cornered train; bell skirt and jacket. Through the square opening of the bodice & chemisette is visible; it has a ruche In white batiste; so have the long sleeves, which are divided into puffings, with bands of guipure. This trimming appears in different widths and patterns round the bodice and bands of the short upper' sleeves, and also along the revere, basque, and sailor collar of the loose jacket fronts, which ex- ] tend at the sides as a square part of the train, conspicuous for its central kerchief point; the largest flounce is noticed over i the hem of the skirt. Through two slashes of the bodice are displayed white puffing*, which meet in a point at the waist, where they are outlined with a narrow ribbon fastened at the side into a bow. TAILOR MADE GOWNS. Fashions come and fashions go, but there is a certain amount of steadfastness in those which appertain to the tailor made gowns which are simple, and yet, wherever they were worn, would look fashionable and suitable. One of these intended fora tall figure, wae of shot blue and brown cloth, the skirt cut on the cross at the back, full and perfectly plain, the jacket quite long, single-breasted, fastened with four buttons or left open according to taste, but displaying a leather waistcoat of a brown tone like the shot in the material. There was a velvet collar at the back as well ac in another jacket of bide beaver cloth, shorter and double-breasted, made with velvet cuffs on a new principle, for they turned up and curved, allowing the buttons to be seen. It is difficult to find a cloth material sufficiently warm fer really cold weather, but the treble Meltoua solve the difficulty. One of these in grey for a three-quarter coat, opening with large lapels, double-breasted, and showing the Newmarket cat, which means that the basque is joined on at the hips, was cut away slightly in front, and wae exceedingly smart. So much depends on the waistcoats; they are making them In pretty canary-coloured linen, in blue and yellow check cloths, in white doeskin with, coin buttons, and in brown doeskin. Theae show well with the covert coating jackets, having lap seams cut with straight basques and velvet collars, sometimes in triple covert coating. Dark green doth is a potent rival to brown, and sometimes the two are blended; but green as a rule, is generally trimmed either with black satlu or jet, a profusion of carricule, or Astrakan. Occasionally a little gold braid or gold galon mingles with these; and if, by any chance, we are to have a severe winter, we shall appreciate the comfort of the fur Tests which are introduced in many mantles between the Interstices of wide lapels. Some of tho jackets, that in England are now made with long basques, cross the fiptire and fasten with only one button at the aide. A great novelty- for tdis cla&e ot garment ia watered woollen, which forms no admirable a contrast to the velvet front. Another novelty, which nany women will appreciate, is a return to the old blue-black shade that found such favour with our grandmothers, and aNothe tea-green of the same period. Both are durable and excellent. CAPE TRIMMINGS. We are done to death with cape trimmings, and it Is really difficult to tell where the craze ia likely to end. Sometimes two or three surmount the falling feleeves, sometime* there, are as many as four lapels ending with capes on the front of coats, dresses, and jacket; the majority are edged with piping, for piping has come back to as With the old-faebioned hoods, which had a great element of. beauty and usefulness. It Is curious in Paris now te see men and women alike walking abou the streets in wet weather in short dark blue or black waterproof capes, with a pointed hood, which they slip over the head, and thU useful adaptation has, withoo t doubt, given rise to the simulated hood trimming* which appear on many gowns and mantles. TBAVELWNG GEAR. A brown tw«ed gown, foe example, with

faint red linen upon It, Iβ eminently eon, I fortable wear. The skirt is made nUk." £k and aliffhtly full, and the coat him a velv,l W collar and revere with a fawn wahtcoat I Fawn colour holds Uh own. mut a c«uh mere of this tint wae made as a plain skl»* A baviop: brown reive* buttons and <W w loops carried down tho left side. Tito c o vt opened to show a wuUtcoat of blue and white spots, with the same cord, Joods and buttons introduced on cuch slue*• ' the coat and cuilfs nnd the velvet collar Looae-fronted double-breastod jackets In grey and blueHarrin tweed were intended to be worn with quita plain skirt* aod buttoning pockets at one slilo, serviceable travelling dressts, which com blue all the requisites of our modern civilisation. A brown ami fawn cashmere gown, for example, lml rows of Htitchlntr !on the skirt, and an open coat, with abUi« ' and white checked walsicout. A small fawn check tweed had been made in th» same styl* , , aud many heather mixturesindeed, tho public prove by their orders that tweeds are in grunt demand, and these dresses seem to please even one, commending themselves on the score of their cut and fit. ' Antony useful and suitable drcsset which any lady would consider a delightful a d< junct to her country kit, am. first of all a blue drill skirt with an optn jacket, having a white flannel front, tho cuffs aad revere of the coat trimmed wlih ouo row of white braid. A oat, nimle of course with lap seams, had sleeves aud & ero»sway dart on each side of the front making "it fit admirably to th« flffure. The silk lining displayed noid and silver state ' and there was r skirt to go with it, which was unlined except at the foor, though th« f reverse side was exceedingly pretty. I green-faced cloth double-breusted coat bad i loose fronts aud a tight back, the ba*que being full, the turn-down collar strapped with velvet. Thi* had a great aspect of smartness, and no had a long cloak for driving, made quite loose back and front, of thick brown and rod cloth, tho high collar edged with fur', tho vest aud shoulder piece of ailk, with thick cord at the edge. A tweed skift aud doable. breasted coat were made quite plain, the skirt unlived. ~~ A useful travelling cloak, with a loose fitting back, aud two email shoulder cape* in check, lined half way down with silk. | bo mc ot the other models bave detachable oapes, while Highland cnD39, which over? woman should posses*, have straps and hoods, useful accompaniments to bliooting skirts bound with leather. I could not devote my attention to useful garments for hard wear aud eport without recognising the merits ot rainproof homespun costumes. They are prepared by a new and permanent electrical process. These are uiadu with the skirt bound with gabardine or leather; long Inverness capes, aad some novel heather homcoune ia a brown and blue tone. Their capes in reversible vicuna hnve become a necessity in country lif>> now. They have straps eros-ing thn sliouldere and waist, high collars, nnd small additional capes shaped to the shoulder. I greatly admired their eniart cloee-ilillng coats, which tire double-breasted, with turn-over collars, lapels, and Urge sleeves. They are made in natural wool. Women who are not so particular as to the Intent fashion can set themselves up in cheap capes of good make at reasonable prlcw. These are of a good length, and have pleated pointed capes. A travelling dress just sent homo by Felix was of cafe au-luit Amuzone cloth, made fiat and plain in front, and large pleats at the back: jacket bodice, with long basques added (not cut in with tho lenKtb), opening over a jabot of ecru luce; large sleeves, plain towards the wrist ; large cloak of waterproof satin raervellleux, fitting in at the buck.