AN EXCURSION TO LAKE WAKATIPU.

Press, Volume XLVIL, Issue 7732, 11 December 1890, Page 6

AN EXCURSION TO LAKE WAKATIPU.

Ifc was during the time.of rthe late Dunedin Exhibition that five of us, then in Dunedin, decided to forms party and go to Lake Wakatipu, by an excursion wain. Theflrst thing to do was col find out if there was any possibility of getting a bed at Queenstown when we got.there, so one of the party telegraphed to two at the hotels mentioned in the guide boot, and got a reply from one that they were very full, but would try to put us up. ine other one replied that there was no room to put us in. This was encouraging, but as we had decided to co and -Chance the beds we bought our railway tickets. As several others in the hotel were going on the same trip, all the guide books were in great requisition that evening, and before turning in we knew not only the names of the hotels at Queenstown, Glenorchy, and Kinloch, but even the heights of Ben Lomond and Mount Earnshaw. Next morning the first sound I heard was the steady downpour of a hard rain. The train was to start at 7.30. Nowhere was a nice how d'ye do ; hard rain, with every prospect of continuing, and the train to leave in an hour and a-nalf for the wilds of goodness knows where. I only knew it was some out of the world place where it.was more than doubtful if one would find a bed; however, we were going for pleasure, so there must be no shirking at the start.

Things look a little more cheerful as we have our breakfast and discuss the glorious prospect ahead, because from the breakfast room we cannot hear the rain. At thS train tHere are very few people to be seen, so we pick a carriage divided into compartments, and taking possession, of one that gives us plenty of room, we waited for the start. Time is up, but as the pleasure-seekers are still coming in twos and threes we wait for another ten minutes, and then off we go. Rain, rain, rain; ie seems to get harder the farther we go ; which naturally leads to accounts of floods of past seasons as we go through the Taieri. About nine o'clock the rain ceases for a time and the sun comes out just as the train stops at a side station. We want to have a good look round and therefore get out, and as everyone else does the same it is surprising what a lot have come in spite of the rain. Just a few over 240, and a lot of them ladies. Everyone seems to be meeting people they never expected to see, and as they certainly never expected to see. them there, there are great handshakings and hopes that the rain is over, when "Take your seats, please" puts us all back again, and on we go. At about IL3O the train waits twenty minutes at a station to allow time for lunch. The weather is now showery, and just at this time it is good enough not to shower on us and our dinner. Tea, soup, meat, vegetables and everything is ready, and they are greatly appreciated, especially some very good sandwiches. AH aboard, and we're away again. Our next long stay is at Gore. This is a junction township, and promises to be a centre of some importance in time, when the large plains all round are settled. It may fairly be compared with Ashburton. though round the latter place the plains are already settled more than at Gore. My ideas of Gore had always been very vague and of a "one horse show," but it is quite a "full team."

Here we branch off and go through the (I think Waimea) plains till the ground gradually becomes .undulating, and we shoot through a few cuttings, always looking anxiously ouj; to see what the clouds look like, and very black they are too sometimes just asa shower is coming on us. The hills seem to leave a sore of twisted valley between them, through .which the train goes, until at 4.30 we come suddenly in full view of Lake Wakatipu, with the great town of Kingston on its shore, with a high mountain just behind. The township seems to consist of an hotel and a couple of cottages, but what is of more interest to us are the two steamers lying alongside the jetties. One of the steamers has steam up and an awning over part of the-vessel, so therein a-general stampede to try and get a dry. seat on her. Did you ever watch an excursion crowd all rushing for the best places when the space for going along is limited ? ■ It is most interesting; some seem to rush on wildly for a time and then stop suddenly, and look around as though they bad lost someone, then an anxious look comes ■on their faces, and glancing first one way and then the other they areevidently reckoning that if they go on* the lost one is bound to miss: the, boat, and if they go back they will lose* their places they have hurried on for, yet what good are the places if she is not there and aothey stand, till with a sigh of relief theiy see her coming and start on again : others seem to hurry on trying; to get in front of everybody else and at the same time pretend they are in no hurry and would, not inconvenience anyone for worlds; it is very funny, that is if you have already secured your place. Well, the captain was in no hurry, so he iust waited till everybody was settled. The steamer was a nice size and very clean, bat of course when so many people were on bpard there was not much room to spare, and as every now and then we got very cold, and heavy shower* of sleet and rain; every one tried to keep under the awning that had been put. up, and the ladies eat on forms placed across the deck. Some took refuge in the cabin, but it was so hot and close there that in a short time they were glad to come up again. As we start gently along the Lake the passengers all discuss the beauties of the mountains, .and there are frequent exclamations of "Oh, how lorely," when ever the steamer gets opposite a bit of scrub nestling in a gully, or a small waterfall, until wef get opposite some rugged rocks, which we are informed is the " Devil's Staircase," on account of an unfortunate accident which happened at the spot in the early days, when Mr Bees was driving cattle round the lake, and one going over the rocks into the lake a lot of others followed. This account is now told by a number of those on board, to whoever 'will listen to it, and by listening to several one hears various accounts, some stating that the number was thirty, and others had various numbers, ranging as high as 300. It is a nasty place for driving cattle, as if one goes over the ledge it would be travelling on it could not help slipping into the water, and the bank is too steep to get up again. The hills tower above as on both sides, aad the tops are capped with snow,; but owing to the cold, the majority of us are not in the humour to appreciate its wildnes*, though as the sun. peeps oat for a few minutes, and cau3e3 a perfect rainbow to show between us and the side of the lake, everyone is struck with its beauty, as, rising out of the water, it forms the half-circle and descends to the water again, and as the steamer moves so it follows along. Presently we hear that ' a meal is going on down below, and some come up with accounts of having had some splendid " lake trout," so we try to get down for some, but the crush below is too much, and we leave our trout for a future occasion. .

At 7 o'clock we come in sight of Queenstown, nestling under the hills at the first tarn in the lake, and by 7 30 a.m. we are getting alongside the jetty. Now we again see the old thing, of everyone standing with hand-bags, &c, all ready to rush on shore; and as beds are scarce, it is to be a race in earnest. As the gangway is pushed out, one man makes a rash up it, and has the satisfaction of seeing his hat fall into the water, having been caught by a rope, and knocked off his head: as he stops to try and recover it he blocks the way, much to the annoyance of those behind him. The bows now being palled in, we step ashore. A large crowd is on the wharf to see us arrive, and I hear from a friend who is now living there, that there are already 150 visitors in the town. There is no time'to stop talking, so we hurry on to an hotel, where, being the first to arrive, we all secure beds, and have a good tea. •' ■ ■'" ■■'■' ■■■■" '.'"