CHRISTCHURCH IMPRESSIONS OF WESTLAND.

Press, Volume IX, Issue 1095, 12 May 1866, Page 2

CHRISTCHURCH IMPRESSIONS OF WESTLAND.

We are glad to furnish our readers with the following account, by Mr William Wilson, of a trip to Ilokitika and Oreymouth. It will be seen that, in many particulars, more information is supplied by our fellow townsman, relating to the western portion of the province, than has hitherto been published, either by travellers or by correspondents residing in Westland. „ TO mE EDITOR OF THB PRESS. Christchurch, M«y o, lSbb. Sib,— Having on the occasion of the recent sales of town" land at Hokitika and Greymouth, availed myself of Cobb's coach to pay a visit to Westland, I dare say your readers uiav biglad of such observations as I was able to make during my short trip on the appearance, condition, and resources of that portion of our province, and on the character and disposition of its present inhabitants. I started in the aforesaid conveyance from Christchurch, at three o'clock a.m. on Tuesday morning, March 27. I need hardly dwell on any long description of the first part of our journey, which of course was performed in the dark. Most of your readers are aware that for about nine miles the great western road runs through a fertile and well-peopled tract of country, dotted with nice villas, substantial farm houses, roadside inn 3, barns, cottages, ricks, &c—much of it well fenced (chiefly by gorse hedges), and the bleakness of the level plains being relieved, both as to monotony of appearance and as to shelter for animal and vegetable life, by plantations of English and Australian trees, more or less advanced. The present Hokitika road, leaving the S.W. corner of Christchurch between the Hospital and the Presbyterian manse, is identical with the South road for nearly four miles, when it diverges to the westward, leaving Riccarton church, school, and parsonage on the left. A little mor thane a mile further on, the Eacecourse and grand stand are also on the left. The first stage, which we reached at seven am., was Watson's Halfway House, twenty miles from Christchurch, where a very substantial and excellent breakfast was served to us, far beyond what might be expected at a country inn so far from population ; for at daylight, an hour , before reaching it, we had found ourselvs on the open plain, consisting of sheep runs, without any improvements, reaching right and left as far as I could see, except occasionally gettiing a gliinpee of the Waimakariri river on the right. At Watson's we picked up Mr W. Guise Brittan, the chief commissioner of waste lands ; Mr C. Davie, chief assistant surveyor, and receiver of land revenue (temporarily) for the district of Westland, which constituted him also pro tern, a member of the WasteLandsßoard; Mr Reade, clerk to the Board ; and Mr W. G. Brittan, jun., eldest son of the Commissioner. These gentlemen had travelled in a private carriage to Watson's the previous day, and made our number of passengers up to eleven or twelve ; which nearly filled the coach, one of exceptionably small size. I may state the usual coach carries about seventeen passengers. From Watson's, to the foot of Porter pass, about thirty-three miles, Iβ still over open plain ; but more improvements are noticeable in this portion of tlie " run" country than in that nearer town. At White's hotel, about three miles from Watson's, mail bags are left for a rural post-office district; immediately beyond which improvements of a very extensive and substantial nature begin to be seen. One of the most prominent of these is a paddock of 3000 acres, enclosed by ditch and bank, planted with gorse and. topped by single wire. This is well-grassed with native grasses, and large numbers of sheep were visible. This is on the Racecourse Hill run, formerly Mr Creyke'e, then Mr F. E. Stewart's, now Mr R. Rhodes'. The run is named from a small isolated mound, perhaps 100 feet high, at the foot of which is the Home station. About a mile {further on, to the left, the lower spurs on the Malvern Hills impinge upon the plain, and the near scenery becomes more picturesque. At the foot of these hills, about a mile from the road, a range of corrugated iron buildings was pointed out to mc as Mr. Jebson'e Colliery Works. Just there, two drays, laden with coal, met us on their way to Christchurch. The coal now costs £1 per ton at the pity, and £3 per ton in town. A railroad, or even trauroad, would very much cheapen these prices, as the increased consumption in town would enable the mineral to be supplied more cheaply at the pit also. It is well known that eeams of coal of various qualities, building stone, limestone, manganese, chrome, copper ore, plumbago, and serpentine (from which magnesium is manufactured), have been discovered in the Malvern hills in greater or lees quantities. These facts, and the abundance of accessible timber, chiefly tawai, or black birch of different varieties, in the upper Malvern hills, and of beautiful sites for country residences in this neighbourhood, point to the district as one likely, before many years, to be of great importance. On the right, opposite Jebson's colliery, an isolated hill, called Little Racecourse hill, stande close to the top of the cliff, which, I am told, there forms the side of the lower gorge of the Waimakariri river. The plain here, on the same high elevation on either side, appears to be without a break, and it is only by being told of it that you can tell where the river runs. On the northern side are seen two more isolated hills, View hill and Burnt hill, and the forest-covered ranges of the hills above Oxford, —officially known as Harewood forest. In the middle, but a little to the right as you travel, is seen the gorge of the Waimakariri, where the river emerges from the mountains, and more to the left the high peaks and subordinate spurs of Mount Torlesse. Three or four miles beyond Jebson's, the valley of the Hawkins, a small branch of the Selwyn opens up to the loft, and discloses the house and wool-shed of the Birchwood run, formerly Mr. Watts Russell's. Paseing round the foot of the next spur of the Malvern hills, Lieut. Deane'e etation and homestead are on the left. Soon afterwards is an accommodation-douse, at which the horses are changed. A short distance further on, the gully of the Kowai, a tributary of the Waimakariri, is crossed by side cuttings up and down the cliffs, about 100 feet high on either side. Having crossed, Mr. Curries station is seen to the right. The hills, or rather mountains, for they fully deserve the larger description, now begin to hem us in; and, at ten miles from the last etation, we dined on good fare, at moderate prices, and again changed horses at Riddle's inn, at the foot of Porter pass. This was between twelve and one o'clock. We now began the ascent of the pae3, which has a steeper gradient and gre»ter altitude than any other part of the whole road from Christchnrch to Hokitika. The top of the pass is 3234 feet above the level of the sea, but only 1143 feet from the foot to the summit of the pass. The ascent is two and a-half miles in length ; one mile of it gentle incline, and the rest steep ascent. The difficulties of the gradient are much modified by the excellent quality of the metal, a fine brittle, yellowish stone, which is spread on the road in its natural state, so as to resemble garden walks. Men are expected to walk up, but women, children, and invalids can ride safely all the way. Snow lies on the pass during severe weather in winter, and even occasionally at other seasons for a day or two at a time, but there was none when I passed, and communication has never yet been obstructed.

Immediately after passing the summit, and 420 feet lower, a small sheet of water, named Lake Lyndon, lies close to the left of the road. It is frequently frozen over, and might afford facilities for the establishment of skating and curling clubs among our numerous rising institutions, for the encouragement of the athletic exercises of our youthful population. The country is now of a varied and picturesque character: here undulating downs, there steep mountains ; but generally a tract so considerably elevated that the greatest neighboring heights seem comparatively moderate. On the summit of one of these elevated downs, to the right, is a remarkable formation of white limestone, lying in horizontal, vertical, and other positions, presenting, as one of our passengers remarked, the appearance of an old ruined city. From Lake Lyndon to Cobb's stables,

near Mr Eny'e station, the road hns, in the distance of about ten miles, first ascended a few feet, then descended 379, ami re-ascended 304, so that the stables are 2548 feet above the level of the sea. The horses are again changed here, thirteen miles from Riddle's inn, at the ea?t foot of the piss. Descending now 3SO feet in five miles, we reached Broken river, a tributary torrent of the Waimakariri, but easy to ford, except under very extraordinary circumstances. Near the ford, a promising scam of mil crops out ; and I understand the land comprising it has been reserved as an endowment for the recently proposed public schools of a superior kind. Hence, to Craigieburn saddle, there is an ascent of 675 feet in two or three miles, and then, after descending 622 feet, a spacious stone building is reached, which was intended for an inn, but is now used as a manager's residence, or some other private purpose in connection with Mr. Hawdon's station of that name. In the course of this descent the scenery isexeedingly beautiful, especially from the abundance of timber ; and three seams of coal crop out at the side of the road ; one of which had been excavated, and a considerable quantity used for smithy purposes. In a hollow, a little further on, lay, to the right Lake Pearson, a small but narrow sheet of water, across which a very cold wind blew from the mountains beyond it. Two or three miles further on, which is over a remarkably straight and well formed piece of road, and passing Mr. Hawdon'e home station on the left, andthesmall Lake Grassmere on the right, we arrived at a very comfortable inn, recently built, close to the Case, a email tributary of the Waimakariri, where we changed horses. The Case is easily forded ; and in the next four miles we crossed the watershed, between the Cass and the Waimakariri, sometimes called Goldney's saddle passed along a piece of cutting in a cliff overhanging the river, and then came to a largish tributary of the Waimakariri. We forded easily ; but the driver told mc it is sometimes dangerously flooded. The altitude of this spot is about 1860 feet. Hence, by a gradual rise of three or four miles and a half, crossing a few dry river beds, we arrived at about seven p.m. at Jones's inn, on the south bank of the Waimakariri, opposite the Bealey township. Here we passed the night. We found excellent accommodation, and every possible attention. It was remarkable to find here a man-cook, who was proud of his accomplishments in ornamental cookery, and who displayed for our admiration some imitation camelias, made out of cut turnips and leaves of the " Native orange," so good as to deceive one of our party, greatly to the delight of the " artiste." The next morning we crossed the Waimakariri in a dray, where the bed is about a mile wide, containing about five different streams, in all of which the water was quite shallow, and arrived in the township. The coach from Hokitika had arrived here the night before, and put up at the Bealey store and inn, the passengers passing the night there. Among them were Mr. Dobson, the Eailway Engineer, and Mr. Shearman, the Chief Commissioner of Police, on their return to Christchurch. This is considered the half-way stage of the journey, being about ninety miles from Christchurch, and seventyfive from Hokitika. There is here a police camp, and one or two email houses. The cite is very picturesque ; river, forest, and mountain —(sometimes snow-capped)—combining to complete the beauty of the view in every direction. The altitude is 2155 feet.

Starting in the coach at cix o'clock on Wednesday morning, we ascended the Bealey valley; and in the course of about six miles forded the river sixteen times. I noticed on the road a shanty or two, where grog appeared to be sold to casual travellers. At the end of this distance there is a substantial bridge across the gorge of the Bealey, and we were now at the foot of Arthur Pass, 379 feet above the Bealey town. Then there is a steep ascent of about 100 yarde, and an easy gradient afterwards brings you to the summit, which is 3038 feet above the level of the sea, or nearly 200 feet lower than the summit of Porter Pass, and only 883 feet higher than Bealey township. The scenery between the township and the top of the pass is exceedingly beautiful. Precipitous mountains rise on either side, clothed to their summits with luxuriant forest; broken here and there, in beautiful contrast, by white lines of cascades, which fall from the height of many hundred feet, so that the water fritters away into a lace-like mist before reaching the bottom. These waterfalls are perpetual, and probably fed by the glaciers known to exist still higher up in the Alpine range. After crossing the bridge, the ascent is through ' a moorlike country, bare of timber close to* the road, but plenty within sight, giving a pleasing diversity to the views in all directions. The actual pass is narrow, and lies between lofty and partially wooded ranges on either side, thus preventing any extensive view. From this spot, streams, originating in a dark-colored morass, How in different directions either north or south, thus indicating very clearly that the watershed between East and West Canterbury has been reached. This spot is also one which would well repay the botanist, either professional or amateur, for the trouble of a visit; the specimens of vegetable life being many of them quite new, and also remarkable for beauty of foliage and blossom. Amongst these I readily discoveredE.anunculusNivalis(Bometimes called Lyelli) distinguished for its circular concave leaves, at least nine inches in diameter, supported in the centre by a strong stalk resembling in form that of the English meadow buttercup, and for its large handsome blossom of snowy whiteness. This is probably the most beautiful specimen of New Zealand herbaceous flowering plants yet discovered. I also observed the well known Veronica, or Koromiko, in great profusion and numerous variety. There is also a Gentian, with pure white flower. There are many other shrubs and herbaceous plants of a very ornamental and interesting appearance, which I was unable thoroughly to examine on account of the rapidity of the journey.

The varieties of Veronica which I have i mentioned are, chiefly —Weldii, Cupressoidis, Haastu, Epacridea, Tetrachea, Lavandiana, and Bidwillii. Among other plants in this locality may be noticed Ourisia Macrocephala, Fagus Cunninghamii, Purpuracea, and Antarctica ; Carpocletes serrate, Astelia nervosa, Celmisia coriacia, Spectabilis, Petiolata and Longifolia, Dracophyllum traversii, Olearia greyii ; three species of Orchids, Climatis hexasepala, and the yellow flowering Senecia Lyellii. But most beautiful of all, and in great profusion, clothing the sides of the hills with their bright scarlet blossoms, are the Metrosideros lucidum, and other varieties of the Rata, or Native myrtle. The ferns are in great variety and beauty on the west side of the range, especially Septopteris superba, one of the rarest and handsomest of the New Zealand dwarf ferae.

At a certain angle in the zig-zag road, the driver calls the attention of his passengers to the remarkably bold and beautiful scenery. Mountains of great height, clothed with the most luxuriant forest, rise on either side, and are commandingly seen from this particular point of the road ; and the torrent itself foams noisily amongst the huge boulders which form the moraine, and continues its course through gorge and valley with great impetuosity. This part of the road displays great boldness and ingenuity in the engineering talent of its constructors, the rocks and vegetation positively overhanging the roadway in many places. These remarks apply to several, although more noticeably to two particular spots. After passing the la3t of these formidable cuttings, we arrive at a more open part of the valley, and stop to breakfast at a very comfortable accommodation-house, the first stage from the Bealey, built by Mr. Wright, and kept by Mr Ray. After a rest of half-an-hour or so, proceeding about a mile, we had to cross the Otira, here divided into two branches, and rushing along with considerable force. The bottom is rough, and some difficulty is at times experienced in crossing these fords. Now the road improves, being pretty level, and following the bunks, but with a few cuttings through soft rock. As we approach the junction of the Otira with the Teramakau, a fine view of the latter valley and surrounding mountains is gained. Near this confluence is the Junction hotel, kept by Messrs Alexander, and the second stago from

the Benley. Thence we proceeded by an easy descent, partly through bush or scrub, and partly over open land, over much ground that has formerly be«-n river bod, but now clothed with vegetation, the principal plant being th« well-known " ako-nko," which was in fui! blossom, nnd yielding n fragrant perfume. Eight miles take you to the Taipo river, near it» confluence with the Teremakau. Here wo dined ; and leaving our coach, were ferried over tho rivor, which is hero impracticable for vohielo or horses, r.nd dangerous from its extreme rapidity. When the river is not I flooded, however, cattle nnd horses can cross about haif-a-mile higher up. The original bed of the river is hero nenrly dry, and a substantial bridge is beinsj built across it; the intention being to divert the river from its new channel into the old one n;;ain so soon as the bridge shall be completed. The dangers of this much dreaded obstacle to the journey will then be comparatively at an end.

From this point the road continues to follow the valley of the Teramakau for about ten miles through wooded country, with an occasional glimpse of the river. Then leaving the valley to the right, the journey is proceeded with over a nearly level country, with occasional ups and downs of comparative insignificaneo, until the Kawhaka, a tributary of tho Arahura, is reached. Much of this road, through epongy swampy tracts, is formed by branches of trees, on which the metal is laid, thus presenting a very fair roai for the time, being through what was one of the most difficult parts of the journey. At the Kawhaka we changed horses for the last time, the house being called McClintock's hotel ; around which there is a considerable stretch of level land, with beautiful mountain and forest scenery in the distance. Nine miles through a heavily timbered country, by a well made road, bring* us to tho Arahura, a river at this point of considerable width, and the crossing of which is attended with some difficulty, in consequence of the boulders which cover its bed. Once across, it is seven miles to the mouth of the Arahura, along a very well formed road, at an easy incline, tlnvmgh land thinly covered with what is called "the tree tutu." Thia land is chiefly Native reserve, and would be very easily cleared for the purposes of agriculture.

From the mouth of the Arahura tho road proceeds along the beach, and yon are obliged to select the time of nearly low water, so as to secure solid sand and shingle on which to trevel. There is always a heavy surf on this coast, and it frequently breaks over the horses' backs, and wets the feet of the driver and hie companion on the box. The boundary of high water mark is a line of soft sand and drift-wood, immediately backed by scrub and forest vegetation. One small river, in the course of the six miles from Arahura to Hokitika, is easily forded. Half-a-mile before entering the town, on the left of the road, are seen the extensive stockyardi of Wilson, Burnell, and Co., and those of Jones and McG-lashan, in which a very large amount of business is transacted in the sale of sheop and cattle. A little inland, on a terrace above these yards, is the public cemetery, in a most picturesque situation, eurrounded by forest. About a quarter of a mile beyond this we turned off the beach into the northern end of Revel street. This main thoroughfare is nearly straight, and about a mile and a half long from its commencement to the bank of the Hokitika river. It is of irregular width— from forty to fifty feet —and densely occupied by buildings on either side, Especially towards its southern end, where not a foot of ground remains unbuilt upon. The allotments,, as a general riile, have thirty-three feet frontage by sixty-six feet deep. Thebuildingsaresomeof timber, but mostly corrugated iron, and of a somewhat flimsy character ; but they present a rather imposing appearance from their showy and lofty fronts, profusely painted and gilded, especially the numerous hotels, 1 with their highly decorated bars, frequented, particularly in the evening, by large numbers of miners and others; On the average every fifth house is a public-house, where music, dancing, and other attractions aro held out to the customers, i

On the left, about midway along the street, J stands a very spacious new theatre, possessing 1 probably the largest stage of any in New Zealand, and ample accommodation in boxes, pit and gallery. Mr.Bartlett, the worthy proprietor, is much esteemed ; at his recent benefit the receipts amounted to £174. I could not help being strnck with the prominence of a long row of butchers in the front of the dress circle, evidently quite aware of the important standing they hold in Hokitika society. The proprietor twas kind enough to show mc all through the establishment, and I found all the arrangements excellent. The entrances both up and ctown stairs are through bars thronged with customers, and. served, as in other hotel establishments, by handsome barmaids dressed in the first style of fashion, and wearing much jewellery. Mr. Bartlett appears likely to find his undertaking a remunerative one, and de servedly so.

At theTiver bank, Revell street joins on to Gibson quay. This eecond main thoroughfare extends in a curve to the westward about three-quarter of a mile along thn bank. It is two chains wide, but subject, especially near its junction with Bevell street, to be washed away by floods. Wharf works, however, are in progress to avert this danger ; bat it is doubtful how far any amount of expenditure can prevent the river from ultimately cutting a atraighter channel than it now flows in, across the southern part of Wharf, Revell, and Beach streets, and some of the adjacent sections, into the sea, a little more thanhalf-a-mile north of the present entrance.

The other streets (besides Revell) running nearly N. and S. (magnetic)— i.e., northward from the river—are named Beach, Tancred, Sewell, Fitzherbert, Bealey, Hall, Brittain, Sale, Rolleston, Davle, Jollie, Hoffman, Livingston, and Dalton. Those running nearly E. and W.—that is, from the coast inland—are named Camp, Hamilton, Weld, Stafford, Hampden, Park, Tudor, and Spencer. Round the east and north sidea of the town a reserve has been laid out as a town belt, three chains wide.

Ample reserves have been made for open squares and other public purposes. Three squares are named Whitcomb, Ho wit, and Cass. The fourth is the botanical gardens' reserve. There are three diagonal streets, running in a general N.W. and S.E. direction, namely—Ross etreer, from the cemetery and gaol reserves, outside the N.W. corner of the town, throughout Howit square to the cricket ground reserve at the S.E. corner; Haast street, from Be veil street at the W. end of Spencer street, through Whitcomb square, to the botanical gardens reserve; and FitzGerald street, from Revell street at the west end of Hampden street to Fitzherbert street, near the Government and other reserves. These diagonal streets are about 100 feet wide.

The other reserves are for the following purposes, viz., for sheep and cattle and slaughterhouse, outside the N.W. end of town, and at S.E., and also for places of worship, clergymen and schoolmasters' residences and schools, of the Church of England, Presbyterian, Wee-, leyan, Congregational, and Roman Catholic denominations ; for municipal purposes ; for a mechanics , institute; and for a market. Large reeenres have berti made for " government purposes" generally, only a portion of which are yet occupied. Thia brings us to continue our description of the town as actually existing at the time of our visit. (To be continued.)