Ladies Columu.

Bruce Herald, Volume XI, Issue 1013, 28 May 1878, Page 6

Ladies Columu.

♦- THE ICADJJCE BOYALE BLOTTSE. This can be made for a day or an evening dress by changing the colour and the material. Tor instance, it is made 'for the day in cashmere, berge, or blue marine, or slate gray ; for the evening it can also be in very fine cashmere, in ivory, torquoise, or royal rose. Bufc ifc ia keafc in crepon and in orierital Bilk. A. soft and supple stuff alone suits the blouse Madame Boyale. It ib fastened* on the shoulders)' and the sleeves must be of a different colour and material ; a little sloped out round the throat, and reeven in at the waist, .but only in front. There is a charming portrait of the daughter of Louis XVI., dressed in a costume of this kind. It is a mixture of Greek grace and the coquetry of the eighteenth" century. The"body worn' uridef'HhV' 4 blouse ought to r 'be ! in silk, and'of a different^ striking colour, like blue admiral with silver cashmere ; sometimes the bettom of the blouae' is embroidered like the peplinus of antiquity. —-'"Whitehall" Review/ ' ' LADIES' EYKNINO- DRESS. A lady's drfss prqper should at least include the shoulders. As it is, dreb°makefs are driveu to tbe most awkwarlJly - ingenious conlrivances to make the dresa ""keep up." there being no ledges or cor. ners to give support, the whole being m*de to reet on the waist. Does then^ good taste require £be abolition of the " loir drißß "? On tbe contrary, anyone

who wishes to display a beautiful nock can do so with infinitely more effept. j The "cut down " body, as we believe mil- j liners call it, is an approach Jbo, the true system, as it displays the . neck without dividing it by a line i . fiom tue body. But there can be no doubt that the horizontal line, which indicates r what is called a "low neck," as being at right angles with 1 the line of the body , is opposed ltd harmony and grace. Of. course it .may . be Bajd. that, the aim is to display the i neck as muck as ppsßibfe at a~bali of evening: party • b'u^tKis : *ctfti begone w! with; for effect^ arid with the due effect of full dress, by following the r original principles;, pf c g?od • Bense. , The^ diagram of the outline of J^n^a^Mow dress*' would take t£e dnßp^'oFliy.wrt'piF'^rMiiagle of wfaich th«*edge of tbe dress forma the? base, thPse of ttie- the sides, the chin being the apex. The true diagram should be that of a lozenge, the two lines ascending to the chin, and two others descending from the shoulders towards the waist. Even on the present system, how unpleasant to see the two corner knobs, or shoulders; protruding ; and then their mechanical working ; is frustrated by the bolt or strap which passes across them. And, as it^were, fixes them to the body. It is obvious that where anything is working in a socket, as the arm is, f it ~sHould be covered only, so as to hav6 Tree play, y Such a a diagram as we have described will be found to answer all the aesthetic ends Which the' present mode of displaying the neck attempts. "What we mean is, that an equal amount of " neck superficies " might be exhibited without the shoulders being protruded. .— * Percy Fitzgerald.' MAHTLES. ' :. . . /Worth has introduced, says a writer in tlie "'Queeti;' a x new; mantle^ which is more graceful than the. pelissej and may 'p%babrjr Replace it. 'lii'fo^n^it is a combination of the , talniarand'; mantelet. It iß^eltahaped .to^fc Habk; 1 aiid^ discloses tne rfigure^ which 1 'the mantle' usually ftconcealf, and its large^ev^s-;are'*limiflated.. It it made of embossed velvel£*with a quantity' of f aches'-'bf lace and coloured jetf fringes in ; Itidian : s'qashmere^embroidered%ith ' bronze ; grey ;ahd 'silver ' for, and trimmed^ and red"plush v ; this style- of ;J plush- is .quite a novelty, and very stylish; when 'mounted as c a' kilting. trimnSed with lu'sfred-beaybr^iip^ea^ witE- /white hairs, and' large mantelets of '- the' same" material as the dreßs; as ; well as -casaqueS,' are all foflhi/mabte. ' ' "■■■>■ ■:« n r .*— *w ' COSTUMES. The most splendid materials and brilliaW's^les 7 of tnmmiii^s are "displayed in y winter's -fasfcyns? ; t^a^atnd;:|Uver embroidery and e beads of ; "all colours are iMsned " XIV. costumes are in gr^t trr fayour, >v and fashion gofes as 'far £ b'apk ,'d9 tUf/reiga bf ;i SF^o'uis ! r to •* copy" tiihics witt^iSbtoftfergcl fleurlde-jlys jtha .pn6W" IC Td Vi Wi Jnobnlight hafe Weii^adcled f aiirpra," sunset^ raiiibow, g^id' Same^cSloured ; jßeadsj giv-[vdg-;;%o ic bbt : ft;fltay l il;im'e v afid^eVenißtg'' toUfettes # brigKtj'fairylike" appearance.'' li£tdies ! of quiet economical fastest not 'teuipted/ \}f f suqb! '^^t^an^^^TDameiits. The'ydb^not: folloW pacing 0 whim aiM freakW fesHon, '^d le^ye^such" \ fahtaltic' devices t'b^thb^ eabK fresli inventionpf ijhe. iSJckle goddess. If ' We see dresses of most elaborate, make and,, magnificjent . tissue^ we ' also see others ele/ant "arid tasteful liy their ; very' simplicitiy. Thus 'nothing can be more ladylike than a daintily-fitting .costume of iiavy blue Indian ca|jb mere, witn a jacket 'bodice and rounded^"^asqfue^] The "skirt is^uite ;"p : laiti^ :"wisi a, narrow fluting comiiig beyond, and Xthe^pleat'ie. d^taiblief, ' " l>ut-. toned at the sj^de/and witli a" small pocket, falls at the back' into J semi-|rain. ' The outlines of the tabUer^nd, train/ as well as" the basques of We bodice, are" .edged 'with' two stic^liipgs jjtlie iigtfc coat-sjiaped sleeVes drehutioneid' at -the £0- With a cleep collar and" cuffs -of embroidered linen or cambric 'this i dress^ "_"'_^ill "form, a cKarmikg home toilette, wool an'df silk^ Ddurrette, sprinkled all' over with tiiy dots of bright cofour b yer a sealcoloured ground, is also very tastefu],' and rather more i effective. The'^bodice is formed of cross-pleats, and is open in a squa re "over the bosom, showing a plastron of seal-cblou-red faille r finely pleated .length wise. The deep basque is simply' piped with faille ; tKe skirt Is trimnietP with two scarves, forming drjaperies, edged" with flutuags of : Seai.cb'lbuHd"'failie. ; ; !i .' D'n one "6id^|>oth draperies are buttoned , .down, oii ' the ; are lqsjt; ii^t& Jrimmmg^f the : jbtaio; { Wbicli ;' cpiisis^cift "quilling^; ;and -of the' BealfCploutred ; f^iUe. ■ A 'plfealfed l failleppoefeie^ ia^piabe^very a^the'back,' w b'buMette. ' ! THe s^irtris' r ■ cW^uT ttV bottom in' r deep'; Bcallop's'^ piped' with faille/ showing a^fliitiflg rt^f faille between! The cr ' tight' "sleeves ral*e ' finished^ with a^ •faille Vf fiutitig^ :^nd "a^b'buillon'^ forming a; ! reveree-at^the o(; 3Me^'with r w r ; quilling; of faille^-' Engiiahlivomiin^s'DomesTSc^l^g 1 aztne^' ' "'■ vv:;"-' "/ : "'''' }'/: ■•''■*■■<>■>■ .-t.^--. ■•"••■;■> ■ ■-.