Gardening In Hot Weather

Auckland Star, Volume LXXIV, Issue 11, 14 January 1943, Page 3

Gardening In Hot Weather

'JVHE spell of warm weather has ! played havoc with gardens and gardeners' resolves, but there is ' much that can be done to HOW TO prevent early maturing WATER of crops and the failure of young seedlings. Scattering a few buckets full of water over the surface every evening is worse than useless. In fact, it often causes harm through the roots being induced to come to the surface, where they are later damaged by strong sun or by cultivation. To keep growing crops in good conditions it is essential that the soil between the rows should be kept free. This means hoeing or light forking, both ideal weight-reducing pastimes in the hot sun, but best practised in the cool of the evening or before breakfast. If the surface is then covered with a few inches of rotted weeds, compost, lawn or soft hedge clippings, moisture will be retained through all but the hottest spell. Once a week the garden should be given a thorough soaking with the hose. Runner beans are susceptible to dry weather owing to their great expanse of foliage. This foliage should be hosed with clear water every fine evening and the roots also generously moistened and mulched. Similarly, passion fruit vines will develop troubles unless their roots are kept moist. They should not be flooded, however, as "wet feet" will also set up undesirable conditions. If wood ashes are applied near the roots the health of the vines will benefit considerably. When planting seedlings in dry weather soak the area 24 hours before planting out and again immediately afterwards. Seeds may be planted in dry weather, but germination may be slow and the seedlings will require to be carefully nursed. * * * * are among the most useful vegetables for present planting. They may be set out in trenches, as for celery, or, more CROPS FOR simply, in holes 9in WINTER deep, leaving only the tips showing and the holes uncovered. Nine inches should be allowed between the plants and the soil should be rich and firm. Round varieties of beetroot may still be sown, selecting, if possible, a piece of ground that was well manured for a previous crop. It is always advisable to have a few late root crops, as estimates of what will be used are often astray. Under this head come short-horn carrot, white stone turnips and garden swedes. This class of vegetable may be left in the ground for a long period during the cool weather without deteriorating. Small sowings of lettuce, radish, silver beet and parsley can also be made. * * * * I T , is often wise to have a seed bed, as there are occasions when the demand for seedlings exceeds the supply and imGROAV OWN ported plants take a SEEDLINGS time to become acclimatised to new conditions. Sowings under this heading will include cabbage, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and savoy. Others, not so popular but equally valuable for winter use, are kohl rabi, broccoli and Scots kale (borecole). All these may now be sown, and if plants are available from previous sowings they may now be planted out into good rich soil. It is not even too late to plant seed potatoes, but they must be well sprouted and kept regularly watered and hoed. * * * * r JPHE approximate time, in weeks, it will take crops to mature, is as follows:—Cress, 4 weeks; radish, 6; spinach, 10; peas, MATURING lettuce, 12; French DATES beans, 14; kohl rabi, spring onions, 16; beet, 18; cabbage, carrots, 20; borecole, 22; brussels sprouts, 24; broccoli, 26. One of the advantages of broccoli is that it is actually improved by the frost. The plants thrive in a rich deep loam soil, inclined to be clayey. It should be firm and not freshly dug. For planting, select the sturdiest plants and put them in their permanent positions as soon as possible, giving the maximum growing season. The rows should be 2ft to 3ft apart and the plants 18in apart. To secure the best results with cabbages, seedlings should be transplanted when two pairs of leaves show up. They should be grown without a check and need Dlenty of irianure, also lime. Where stable manure is not available, use 2oz of superphosphate to the square yard and give frequent applications of sulphate of ammonia, loz to the gallon of water. The round drumhead varieties are best for sowing now. In very cold districts savoys are recommended as being the hardiest. * * * * GEEDS of stocks, ranunculus, anemones and aquilegia may be sown now. Open-handed and full sun methods generally mean FLOWER trouble in planting seeds GARDEN of Iceland poppies, pansies and violas. These will need some nursing over the hot weather. Seed boxes are best, with full shade until germination. Poppy seed is fine and should be mixed with sand. Make stocks hardy from the start. As a seed bed use a light, sandy medium with a measure of hunuis to hold the moisture. Tie up dahlias, which are growing strongly, also chrysanthemums, to prevent damage. Remove weak growths from dahlias and mulch the beds to retain moisture. Keep a place in the garden for autumn-flowering zinnias and asters, 'ioth of which can be planted now.