HOW TO MAKE A COLD FRAME

Auckland Star, Volume LXXII, Issue 167, 17 July 1941, Page 19

HOW TO MAKE A COLD FRAME

REFERENCE has frequently been made in these columns to a cold frame, but how many readers know what a cold frame is, how it is made and to what uses it can be put? It has often been stated that a cold frame is an asset, perhaps a necessity, in every well-appointed garden. Yet it-is-doubtful whether-one garden in 50 in Auckland bo&sta one. While not asserting that a cold frame is indispensable, It can be stated that its cost is soon recovered by raising bedding and vegetable plants and striking cuttings. It will, in a small garden, take the place of a glasshouse. A cold frame obtains its heat by conserving the sun's rays unless, of course, It is placed on a hot bed, but this is rarely necessary in the Auckland district.

A frame is a low, rectangular structure with wooden sides; the glazed top, or "lights," can be lifted up, propped up, or opened partially. These "lights," as often as not, consist of old window sashes. Conserving Warmth Even in July the temperature of a garden frame rises sufficiently to ensure the germination of seeds. The •warmth is conserved by covering the lfghts with mats or sacks at night. A frame enables a gardener to raise an early crop of salads, or seedlings of tender plants, several weeks before this would be possible in the open ground. The frame should be placed where it will obtain the maximum sunshine, and protection from cold winds. An excellent position is near a wall or fence facing north.

Never place a frame under trees, for dead wood or fruit may drop and break the glass, to say nothing of the dirt which accumulates from rain drips. Those acquiring a frame for the first time may conclude that it is sufficient to level a piece of ground and set the frame on it. This may be

done, but the life of the frame will be shortened, for decay will be rapid unless the woodwork is treated with an anti-rot preservative.

Even though the interior of the frame has been rendered rot-proof and the outside painted with three coats of a good lead paint, it is advisable to rest the frame on a few courses of bricks. Better still, embed them in concrete.

This will make sure that pests shall not enter from outside. It is little use raising choice, tender seedlings if, during the night, slugs, mice or other vermin can find their way in by burrowing under the sides. Surprising damage can be done by one fat slug once it gets loose in a frame.

Care With Drainage Raising the frame in this way also gives additional depth, which enables at least 6in of drainage material— small stones, clinker, or broken brick —to be placed in the bottom, before covering with well-sifted, rich compost.

Having got this far the next consideration is the soil to use. It may be necessary to spend a little money in the purchase of manure, sand and turfy loam; but as this compost will last over a period of years, it will be money well spent.

■ At least a foot of this compost will be required at the deeper end of the frame, graduating to 6in at the bottom. The compost may consist of four parts loam, two parts welldecayed manure and one part sand, passed through a quarter-inch sieve.

This is raked at a slight slope from back to front, when it will be ready for the sowing of seeds. It is wise to sterilise the compost with a solution of strong ammonia (known as .880 strength), loz to a gallon of water. About three gallons of the mixed solution will be required for a frame measuring 6ft ny 4ft in order that the whole of the compost may be saturated. Open the frame the following day for a few hours to dry out the compost. If preferred seedlings may be raised in boxes or pans placed on the compost until they are large enough to prick off direct into the bed of soil in the frame. Those who prefer to prick

off the seedlings into boxes may dispense with the compost filling, and substitute old sifted ashes. Ventilation Important Ventilation is necessary to the healthy growth of seedlings for if the frame is allowed to become hot and close, the plant will become drawn and weak. In winter little ventilation will be required, but as the sun gains strength, the "lights" will have to be raised higher. Heat should be conserved for the night by closing down about one hour before sunset.