Your Problems

Auckland Star, Volume LXXI, Issue 237, 5 October 1940, Page 7 (Supplement)

Your Problems

A.K. (Feildlng) writes:—We have some macrocarpas that are {ramming and seem to be dying off. Could you give me any advice? This occurs sometimes with macrocarpas. but the losses are not as a rule heavy. You can do nothing but remove any that die and burn them. ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ E.T. (Nelson) says:—Would you please let me know what to do for my native cabbage tree? It is about 15 years old and was perfectly healthy until last season, when the leaves began to turn yellow. The bark is cracking and seems to be infested with wood-lice. I should say that it is beginning to decay at the centre. It will probably break out again ircm the base. ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ PRIMULA (Rotorua) writes:—(l) I have a bed of primula and one ot ranunculus which 1 seemed quite healthy until they started to eomc Into flower. They now have a wilt (the stems wither and bend over) and some have died right out. Is there anything I 1 can do? (2) What causes the soli to become I green and crusted In spite of frequent cultivation? The flower beds mentioned a bore are both In a sunny position. ! (1) It Is due to a rust disease. Bpraylnc with , lime sulphur solution would have controlled It. 1 hut at the present stage there Is nothing you eaa do. (2) The cause of the soil becoming green Is the growth of a low form of plsnt life. It Is a r sign of dampness, and. although the bed may be ' in a sunny position, the drainage is not as good ■ as it should be. ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ " AMATEUR GARDENER (Mt. RosktTt) writes:— I Would you kindly give me the correct nanfts of the three plants I have sent? We appreel- > ate the gardening page very much. It Is a > big help to people that are not trained In gardening. (1) Arum ltallcum: (3) Sedum mldderdofflanum; (3) Boussingaultla baselloldes. ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ TOCSIN (Orakel) writes:—Pear Louis Bonne de Jersey, six years old. sloping" site, should have excellent root drainage, making good growth last year, left It practically untopped last winter, sprayed fairly consistently with lime sulphur at seasonable strengths. At 1 the end of the summer foliage at tip appeared to be Infected, but not sufficient apparently > to warrant concern at that stage. On going to prune this winter the enclosed condition appears extensively through leaders and well ; down into the tree, but more widespread at tips. Disease must have made great advances . at autumn leaf-fall. Is it fire blight V ' what? Can It be cut out? Note sound g<VM , wood above dried-out diseased section In specimen. It Is without doubt fire blight, and you have but one cure, and that is to cut out and burn the tree. Louis Bonne de Jersey seems to be very susceptible to flre blight. ; ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ : SAILOR (Heme Bay) asks:—(l) Planted three L dozen daffodils and only three flowered. What was wrong? (2) I have a grape vine that was pruned two years ago. Before that » it bore small fruit, but pruning shows no result. Is there anything I can do? » (1) DplTodils often miss blooming the first ' season after planting, especially if planted late. I (2) The grape vine may be a small fruiting kind: if so, nothing will make it carry large fruit. It should be pruned every year by having all laterals > cut back to within two buds of the main branches. This is done during the winter. ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ) 8.1.L. (Wanganui) says:—(l) I should like you . to tell me why coal ash Is detrimental to plant growth? (2) Please repeat the formula 1 for turning the compost heap into first-class ■ manure. (3) What Is the value ot sawdust 1 in the garden? f (1) Coal ashes are not detrimental to plant 1 growth If they are weathered, but they affect the mechanical condition of the soil, and in the case of root crops, such as potatoes, parsnips. > etc.. the sharp edges of the cinders scratch and . scar the skin of the tubers and the result is a L scabby root which often decays. (3) The system ; is to add to each layer of vegetable matter a sprinkling of superphosphate and sulphate of r ammonia, using twice or three times as much super as ammonia. The proportions should be: — A layer of vegetable refuse six Inches thick when Armed by treading, four ounces super and two ounces ammonia to each square yard. (3) The value of sawdust is not great. It can be used Ito lighten heavy soils, and even in some cases can be used as a mulch, but until it is more or less decayed It is of little or no value. + ♦ ♦ + SMALL MAN (Northcote) asks:—(l) If It Is possible to make a lawn without a roller? (3) . What Is the best way to prevent sparrows | and other small birds eating seeds? (3) When is tlie best time and method to plant . ft wattle hedge? (1) Yes: firming by treading before sowing and < afterwards allowing to consolidate. It is not so i easy to get a good. firm, true surface without a roller, but plenty of lawns are made without the T use of a roller. (2) Any method by which the birds can be frightened off; black cotton stretched ' across a few inches above the soil, pieces of glass. 1 hung on strings so that they Jingle, pieces of white rag. are all methods used. There Is no i perfect way. It is said that birds dislike anything J of a blue colour. (3) Put the seed into a vessel and cover with boiling water: throw a bag over 1 the top to keep the steam in: let it soak for 24 l hours. The soil should be prepared before the , seed is soaked. Dig ground well and add a little 1 bonedust. Sow the seed in drills about two Inches deep. Once the seed Is soaked it must be sown without drying again.