What Has Paris Given Us This Season?

Auckland Star, Volume LXX, Issue 99, 29 April 1939, Page 5 (Supplement)

What Has Paris Given Us This Season?

Fashion Notes

rit only here in Parii, where styles are actually created, that the accepting, discarding and "sorting" of new ideas can take place, for "creating" the great national French genius is one thing, but the dressmaker watches over her clients as a lion over its cubs—their reactions and impresrions are of the greatest importance to her. Hie buyer in his tnrn thinks of his own clients, he knows what he can sell and to whom. Paris is their Mecca, •nd to Paris they come, season in, and lesson out,. What has Paris given this season? First of all, a great diver•ity, one night say a "baroque variety." Not so long ago, one style-setting designer called for "more variety," and complained that the monotony of the past few seasons had "beggared" the outward appearance of the Parisienne. This season there is a profusion of overything. Several sources of Inspiration express a varietv of influences borrowed from French history. Art, modern life and topical events are all found reflected in the silhouette, influencing the general trend, style and trimmings. However, the word "variety" should by no means be confused with "carnaval. On the contrary, influence* have been treated with such restraint that in many cases study and experience is necessary to recotrninn a new shade as typical of •econd empire, a folded Watteau pleat, *hepherde«s hat or as one belonging to the !>>uie XV. period, or to appreciate the full meaning of upholstery quilting, and all it forecasts. From all the jumbles of "flights from reality into an imaginary world," or escape from everyday routine to surrealism from the Spanish drama, which is reflected in matador styles and goyaesque skirtlines—out of all this is born Madame 1»39. Fashions Here Ami There Short skirts are still very short, and mav expect them to be very indeed "before the season is over. ine waistline territory continues to be the region of dramatic surprises, playing a star part. Alabaster throats get the air. in the afternoon dresses, but most of the practical dresses rids high along the Adam's appisw

*y~ . r A Paris Expert

Veils are shown on afternoon hats. Some are of spotted net and hang behind the head. Others are circular and set on the bias, falling longer on one side. Yet another type of veil falls from underneath the liat, and cover* the face with a chenille-spotted or tullefrilled edge. One or two hats which turn up in sweeping lines acroas the face, have appliqued ccllophane flowers as trimming, while eomc have small shallow crown® and brims of differing widths, which droop very slightly but regularly all round. Use Of Gloves There are some women who think that the matter of gloves is an exceedingly trivial affair. Nevertheless, there are many instances in which there is an absolutely right and wrong point of view of this glove question. The style of material from which gloves are made is * matter of fashion. Materials and designs change with the season, particularly for informal wear. Gauntlets might be popular one year, and short-cuffed gloves another. In general, gloves are worn on the street and when travelling. At a formal tea women guests wear gloves and hats, and for a formal reception the same rules are followed. At less formal afternoon tea« the gloves and hats are worn, but the gloves may be removed after arrival. Women need not wear gloves when jruests at a Ynusical, although they should carry them. At a formal luncheon or formal dinner gloves are not removed until after the guests have been seated at table. Then the gloves should be removed entirely. Long gloves never should be tucked under at the wrist leaving the gauntlet of the glove on the arm with the hand exposed. Brides may or may not wear gloves. In Paris they often wear long-sleeved gowns and no gloves. When the wedding dress is short-sleeved long gloves are worn. The bride wears sometimes the glove on the right hand, and carries the other. The problem of gloves is optional with the bridesmaids. Here again the question of sleeves helps them to decide. The idea is that at a church ceremony it is more discreet that arms be covered, if not by the sleeves of the dress, then by gloves.

The new wrap* are versatile. The shortest bolero yet seen ends at, or just below, the bust, and this bolero has a lot of little sisters. There are & lot of moderately short boxy jackets, minus collars, or collared in an insignificant way, and there are long, loose coat* with Watteau flares sprouting from between the shoulder blades. Triple capelets around the shoulders of coats make street drama in coats. Redingote cowts in sparkling printed, striped and other patterned material* are slipped over one-colour dresses. Long and medium romantic capes are important new wraps. Short jackets that look very different from those of last year, because they are soft and drapy, some in gay, light colours that are enchanting over dark dresses. You will have a lot of leeway in choosing your new wraps, so go to it, and use personal taste. Feathers, Flowert, Veils We still are enthusiastic about the hats seen in Paris this season. Their «ray, breath-taking, new silhouettes, their practical, inimitable flare for beinjr creations that do harm to no face, and probably add immeasurably to the loveliness of any acknowledged beauty, keep them the most irresistible merchandise on the market. The colour combinations alone are worth all the best exclamatory adjectives. As for distinctive colour combinations, you can't equal the new effective black and copper combine, the hat usually black, or mostly black, the contrast or trim, of rich coppery brown. And what a perfect find for copper tops, all those red-headed girls who probably established a record of some sort when first the black and brown hats stole the fashion headlines. ' The new idea is the fashion of matching hats and gloves. Nowadays the milliners not only design superlatively chic gloves, but also pretty little scarves and waistcoats, likewise to match exactly the excitingly different hat. All on# needs is the simplest black or dark m the background for these new sombinss.

Q- LOVES witi * jewelled finger-ring and g]ov€3 which may be wQrn on either hand are one of the latest eccentricities. being used —a knot of flowers in ■©▼eral shades at the waistline.