How To Grow Asparagus.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVIII, Issue 234, 2 October 1937, Page 6 (Supplement)

How To Grow Asparagus.

A Crop for the Amateur Gardener.

Asparagus culture far some reaeon has become surrounded with a lot of traditional difficulties. Actually a.-tpuragua is as easy to grow a« any of tlio common garden plants, but if you wish to get good fat "grass," something to talk about, then you must manure and cultivate it. Coining between the end of the winter greens nnd the beginning of the spring ones, it fills a gap in the supply of green vegetables and im very welcome on that

account. Once planted, an asparagus bed is moro permanent than any other vegetable plantation, lasting, with reasonable treatment, for 20 yean or .Tiore, so care in its original preparation is amply justified. For the same reason it is desirable that a position should be set apart for it so that it may not be interfered with in the ordinary routine of cultivation. The site should be open and sunny. The soil is not a matter of vital importance, though a rich, sandy loam is preferable, as for any other garden crops. Any rich soil will serve, but if it is on the heavy side a good quantity of sand should be incorporated when making the bed. The beds are best made about sft wide so that they may be attended to without tresding on them. The length depends on the amount of space devoted to it and the size of the garden, but two beds 10ft long will supply all that is ordinarily required in the average household. It is not very important whether the beds ran east and west or north and south, but, generally ia the ease of narrow beds, they are earlier if east and west.

To make beds <m this plan select a piece of ground about 16ft by 12ft and trench in deeply all over, working in the sand and a liberal quantity of wcllI rotted manure. This may be done at I any time up to the middle of October. When the ground has settled somewhat, mark out the position of the beds, leaving a 2ft pathway all round and down the middle. Remove the soil from the path to a depth of 6in and throw it on to the bode; this will give the beds a slight elevation and better drainage. After being rouphly smoothed they should be left to settle until about the end of October or beginning of November, which is the best planting time. Asparagus plant* should be one or two years old when purchased and an important point is to get them in as soon as possible after lifting. If they are to remain out of the ground for soma time they ahould be packed well with wet moss or similar material to prevent them from drying. The plants ahould be put in 12in from each other and the rows 18in apart, which will give three rows, the enter rows being at a distance of 12in from the edge, so that rather more space is left in the middle of the bed. About BO plants will be required for the two beds. The roots must be carefully spread out and not doubled or crumpled in, and the crowns should be about 2in below the surface. Planting ahould be as uniform a* possible so that

there is less likelihood of any being damaged during cutting. After planting the soil should be made firm. During the summer growth should be encouraged by frequent hoeing and removal of weeds, for the better the foliage the more vigorous do the plants become and the better the crops. If the "grass" grows tall and shows signs of falling over it should be supported by a stake placed at each corner of tlie bed and string* passed round. As soon as the foliapje turne yellow it should be cut down close to the ground. The beds should be made clean and all weeds and rubbish carefully scraped off the surface and replaced by fresh, rich compost.

It is advisable not to attempt cutting until two years after the bed has been made, and only very light cuttings should be permitted in the second year. While the grass will naturally be cut as long as possible, care should be taken not to cut bo low as to injure the crowns. In any case, even with established beds, it is wise to cut early and discontinue early, the middle of December being quite as late as should be permitted. It is & good rule never to cut asparague after green peas become available.

Annual treatment of bed* ia yery simple and consists of giving a good topdreseing of manure, in autumn. If stable manure is available nothing can be better; seaweed is also good. Most people will have to rely upon artificial fertilisers and a compost heap. The following mixture ia good: Superphos, phate 2 parts, sulphate of ammonia 2 parts, sulphate of potash 1 part. This should be mixed with some good fresh loam or stacked turf, using about &

pound to a kerosene tih of soil and allowing sufficient to cover the bed to a depth of 4in. In December, directly cutting has finished, give a dressing of sulphate of ammonia, allowing about loz to each square yard of bed. A dressing of salt shoaild be given about January. This is often not considered necessary, but the fact that asparagus is an inhabitant of the coastline just above high tide mark shows it to be a salt-loving plant, and in any case salt can be applied in sufficient quantities to destroy seedling weeds, but without injuring the asparagus.

When cutting, cut everything, whether small or large. To allow the thin "grass" to develop will stop the plants sending up further "sticks." Never allow seeds to fall and germinate, or in a few years you will find your permanent plants smothered under a mass of useless seedlings which will give only thin sticks.

Seed can be nsed instead of plants and in this case the bed should be prepared and two or three seeds sown where a pJant is to stand, the seedlings when growing being thinned to one.

Another method is to sow the seed in drills and afterwards transplant into the beds and this 13 probably the most satisfactory way. If you raise your own plants from seed, pick out for planting the strongest and most vigorous and get aft even a sample for planting as is possible. Seed should be sown about October and will be ready for planting either the following spring or can be transplanted and planted the .next spring.