FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVII, Issue 67, 20 March 1937, Page 3 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES.

TALE OF THE HAT.

VIVACIOUS EVENING STYLES

(By A PARIS EXPERT.)

The flat hat, that was the acme of smartness when vacationists deserted Paris last summer, is as extinct as the dodo bird to-day. It may be the approaching English Coronation that has brought high crowns into the limelight, or it may be sheer whimsy and contrary-mindedness on the part of the milliners. In any case, no hat that appears on the horizon will be worthy of the name unless it sports an interesting crown, a high one, or one that gives illusion of height. Though the rakish-brimmed hat still rei-ns supreme as the outstanding sports fashion, and maintains its air of simplicity, its crown is always cleverly worked and manipulated into intricate folds or tucks. Some crowns are high all round, but the majority of the sports models have some height at the back, Bloping down to a lower point in front, or vice versa. Swashbuckling feathers are stuck jauntily at the sides of the crown or through the top. Capelines, of course, are to be put away, but there will be some trimmed tvpes, and some more visored hats. Casquettes, that may owe their inspiration from the present political trend are seen in numbers. Some of them only have short visor brims that cover the eves, while there are dressier types wKn w'ide, rectangular brims, and with the hack and sides brimless. There are some small hats with brims that are very narrow and these are cut off entirely on one side. Trimming is placed on that side, and it may consist of a bunch of grapes, a few flowers and even a small fur head or tail, like that of an erminejust to add conMslon, or devastation, possibly. The New Evening Fashions. Paris brings to the new evening fashions a vivacious and delightful note, with ankle-length frocks which are exquisite and feminine, many of them being made of black lace. A group of low-cut evening frocks seen with cascading foamv ruffles and petals down the backs of the skirts, are interesting fashion items, some in striking contrast of white on black, and these frocks make the most delightful of formal gowns for the new season.

There are many evening frocks made of lace or of sheer materials like chiffon, and in colours that are a dream of beauty, Sometimes the pattern of a lace frock is re-embroidered in a contrasting colour; for instance, a white lace evening gown, the pattern outlined in red and blue, puts a red, white and blue sash on it. There are also many dramatic evening gowns of stiff and glorious materials, and there are literally thousands of printed evening frocks in lush tropical colours. Long silk evening cloaks, pert and picturesque evening jackets, and capes in all lengths are part of the picture. There is no big agitation about skirt lengths or widths this new season. You'll see wide pleated skirts, skirte that flare oat at the back as in a breeze,

and you'll see a lot of skirts that are pared to the silhouette we used to call the "pencil" silhouette. You'll see skirts that have a foam and flare around the hems, and that are narrow above that point. You'll see skirts that are given lengths on the sliding scale, as the occasion needs. More evening skirts will be instep length, and even a bit shorter. And, it is whispered, that below-the-knees skirts are coming in again, and some will be very short in front for evening with a trailing peacock train at the back. Materials are returning to sleek surfaces and many old-timers like flat crepe, ottoman and georgette, are coming back. Prints, and there are many which are spectacular and new, with automobilo varnish, used to make some vivid patterns on plain silks. Animals, from wild horses to exotic fish, vie with the traditional flower and leaf patterns of the past. Music notes make a new printed silk. The farmyard supplies many interesting details, such as cocks, hens, ducks and geese and chickens printed in high lights, on dark or black surfaces. Small Things. The small tilings, the accessories and details that make the fashions move along at an ever-increasing tempo, are as riotous in colour and as charming in shape as a garden full, and running over with all kinds of flowers. Handbags have got far, far away from their utilitarian ancestor, the pocket book, which was useful, though hardly decorative. To-day the handbag is useful, but hides the fact in a braver show of colour, fine materials and fanciful shapes. Clever French makers of this necessary note in the smart costume, display the imagination of the artists without forgetting the utilitarian purpose of the handbag. They come this season in varied shapes; they are oval, round, spade-shaped, long and octagonal. They aie made of the finest leathers and suedes, and in such luscious colours as Chinese vermilion reds, Persian greens, sapphire blue, pink, bright lemon-yel-low, and the other shades that the costume styles effect. Many of them have hand-worked surfaces, quilted and treated with French knots, and one could do a chapter on the ingenious methods they have of being kept shut.

Gloves, too, have broken out in glorious colours and newest kids. One of the smartest details for wear with street clothes is the elipon glove in such colours as red, violet, sulphur-yellow, rich blue, and green. Some simple tailored "loves wear stiff light-coloured collars, like a man's shirt.' A Fashion Craze.

This season there's a craze for bibs and Eton collars, for wide girdles and for scarves. Red velvet or silk seem to be the leading fashion note at the moment, often trimming simple black crepe frocks. Shirred necklines are also popular with bloused bodices and enormously full jackets that look exactly as if they were capes. The new sleeves are out for admiration and plenty of it. We still see the mutton," "postillion" and "parachute" sleeve. Then there are the puff sleeves, the above-the-elbow, below-the-elbow, at the wrist, or a little way above. Pleats and gathers sometimes make them swell abruptly and sometimes, when they keep flat above, following and exaggerating a little the peak of the shoulder, they take on immense fullness b"low. Indeed, there' 6 nothing sleeves don't do to-day.