FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVII, Issue 271, 14 November 1936, Page 3 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES.

WHITE HAT VOGUE. STRAIGHTER AND SHORTER SKIRTS. (By A PARIS EXPERT.) Both in Paris and from overseas, hats are being ordered, particularly in white, followed by navy and brown, and to a lesser extent, in pastel shades, such as pink and blue. There is a continued interest in paper Panamas, and shiny straws with a mother o' pearl effect. Interest in Bengal, fancy Japanese straws, and Baku fancies continues. Veils are still an important item of summer hats, particularly the rather stiff type that stand away from the face. The hats for holiday wear are simple. Trimmings consist of a belt or a necklace, twisted about the crown. A white felt hat seen, and much admired at the races the other day, was trimmed with one of the newest cord belts, complete with metal clasp, passed twice round and fastened. 'Another hat seen on the same occasion, had sought inspiration from a man's outfitter's and had taken an ordinary silk tie, which was knotted about the crown. Men possessing a collection of ties may have to guard them carefully to prevent them being purloined for trimming hats by enthusiastic home milliners. Some interesting sports hats are being made with heart-shaped crowns higher in back than in front, with" a brim broken in the centre front and held in place by a small gros-grain bow. Another sports hat in dark blue felt has a diamond shaped piece in the top of the crown surrounded by two purple quills laid flat, and a "battered" brim which can be adjusted to suit the face. Many of the newest hats are crownless,* the hair being arranged in a suitable manner to fill up the space left open. The newest of the newest are the glass hats, and in such lovely colours as pink, blue green, yellow and last, but not least, black. * The brims are of glass and the crowns of twisted silver straw. These brilliant hats are for very smart occasions. The Edwardian Era. The Edwardian era, which was launched in the early spring, still goes strong. The 1930 version is essentially modern, if faintly reminiscent of the previous Edwardian reign. In Paris, they are showing trim tailored suits with' slender jacket s and long narrow rivers, mannish blouses and small collars and straighter and shorter skirts, still cut on the bias, but with all unnecessary fullness eliminated. These are seen in pastel tweeds with subtlv harmonising colour contrasts together with silk suits with hip-length jackets, pleated in the back, and wide sleeves. They are worn with straight, simple frocks" with high necks. There are also dark silks with pale patterns for the day. The colour combinations are interesting: slate and sulphur yellow, plum and pink, cyclamen, mau\ c and sweet pea tones. Sometimes for evening wear Paris sponsors a slit skirt for a change, but often this is rounded off in a sloping line, so that the feet are just visible. There is much spangle embroidery, narrow bows, light posies in organdie and chiffon, with embroideries, roses in spangles and field daisies. All are important accessories. > Noticeable Details. There are many noticeable details to be observed, such as dress-tops tied at the belt in front, skirt tops raised in front to a point above the normal waist, and most effective blousing of front and backs, which tend to regulate unruly figures. The bolero-line is a method ot figure slenderising, there are masque ideas n-alore, and many cape backs, loose Chinese sleeves and pockets that make no pretence of lying flat. Bracelets and bag clasps now harmonise. neither is engraved or ornamented. but the rich colour of the metal is considered enough of an attraction. Multi-coloured artificial flowers are being used this year 011 day dresses and coats on shoulders and yokes and sleeves. Lots of summer wool is to be seen ulieie dresses are concerned, and a new jacket which might be called a bolero, is something quite unique. It curves away from the front, and is graduated to a somewhat longer line at the back, where 1 flare makes of it almost a cape ment —wholly original. Many of the season's models are girdled 111 shades, as when American beauty red is placed with gloves of that shade against black. Much tulip yellow in suede n-loves and sashes provides a colour note. ° Many of the evening. models have a Chinese coat after the mandarm idea. Feathered earrings and clips aie a novelty; the clip is a curved branch of flat feathers, the earrings to match die little feather disks. They come in colours appropriate to evening. Giving most effectively the impression of a "-lossy, wet umbrella, glistening black varnished silk has been used in the smallest model that ever covered hat and shoulders.

Concerning Corsets and Lingerie. Many are the dressmakers who are making a strenuous effort to persuade their clients to wear batiste or coutil corsets, in place of t-he all-elastic corset or <nrdle. Some of these clever women are" convinced that constant use of Girdles made entirely of elastic eventually breaks the roundness of the lnps, and that a more natural line may be obtained by a carefully cut cloth in which are only two narrow strips -of easily replaced elastic on the sides 4dded advantages are that the con til holds its form lonjrer than the elastic and is more washable.

Besides the simple models hooked at side or back, there are more elaborate styles which obviate the need of wearing several jjannents. Thus, the upper brassiere part is of lace and the lower part is a satin pantie-skirt, an "all-in-one." There are some very, attractive nightgowns to be seen in Paris just now. These are cut on couture lines in washinr, 6 atin, with fine pin-tucks, or in self-m-Inted fabrics, and there are novelties in coloured prints which give variety to this intriguing section of a womans wardrobe.