Practical Gardening

Auckland Star, Volume LXVII, Issue 151, 27 June 1936, Page 6 (Supplement)

Practical Gardening

..■OIAIXAhus^

CUTS IN PRUNING.

A NON-FINANCIAL SUBJECT. "Cuts" are and have been for some time a very popular topic, but the "cuts" referred to here are not in any way connected with finance, but refer to the method by which a branch is severed from a tree. There are right and wrong, or perhaps it would be better to say good and bad, methods of cutting off branches when pruning. When a branch is cut away the sooner the wound heals and the smaller the scar left, the better, and probably investigation would show that the effects of this careless cutting has more to do with our orchard troubles than is at present thought of. To show what is required the cut should not be too slanting and too far from a bud as at Fig. 1. This means a long wound and a dead snag. A .sharp knife or instrument should be used so that 110 "rags" are left as at Fig. 2. A too straight or flat cut, as at Fig. 3, is inclined to retain moisture, although such a cut may be advisable under some circumstances where an unwanted branch is

growing close to another branch. Do not make the cut slanting towards the bud as at Fig. 4, as this leaves the longest portion opposite to the bud and does not callous or heal quickly; not only that, but the resultant shoot will grow out almost at a wide angle. The double cut as at Fig. 5 is the result of blunt or badly used tools and should never be necessary; if the branch is too large for the secateurs, then use the saw. * When you have to twist the secateurs and perhaps take a fresh hold with them, you are damaging the instrument and spoiling the operation. The best cut is shown at Fig. 0: this is sideways to the bud, starting just above the base of the bud ancl finishing just, above the tip of the bud. Such a cut will quickly heal and soon disappear and the shoot from the branch will continue in the same direction as the previous shoot. The secateurs are the most popular instrument for pruning, but the pruning knife is still necessary, and it should be a good, workmanlike tool. The haft should be large enough for the hand to get a firm non-slip hold and the "set" should bo such that the "draw" gives an upward slanting cut without any special effort on the part of the hand. * ACANTHUS. This is a noble family of plants, some of the species being found in most gardens, where they are grown for the sake of their massive, glossy green and picturesquely cut foliage. A. spinosus and A. moliis are natives of the South of Europe, and a tuft of the first-named species accidentally growing around a vase is said to have given Callimachus the idea of decorating the capitals of pillars with carved stone ornaments representing its foliage, hence its use in Corinthian architecture. Most of the species are propagated by seeds, or by dividing strong established clumps. Sow i the seeds in a pan of moist earth and place them in a cool pit or frame to germinate. Root-cuttings succeed tolerably well in heat or cool. Among herb —ous and border plants worth «*rowiii'» for the indoor decoration of apartments we may direct attention to the hvl 'd forms of Acanthus, such as A. candelabrum, A. liybridus and A. longifolius. These have elegantly cut foliage of a fresh green colour and form excellent substitutes for the more tender ferns and palms. There are several other hybrid k which have been raised in French gardens, and retain their foliage much later than A. mollis and A. spinosus, from which they have in part been raised. A. latifolius is one of the freshest and most stately of these varieties, and is a seedling from A. mollis. STORE CEEERIAC. Celeriac scores over its near relation celery in that it can be lifted and stored in safety, whereas the celery, which has to be left where it is growing, is liable to suffer from excessive damp and from alternating spells of cold and mild weather. The roots can be lifted now. Pull off the leaves and store the roots in a clamp or in a shed or ccllar in a similar manner to beetroot, etc. Stored like this the celeriac will remain good all the winter. As a -nrecaution against frost it is unnecessary Vto store celeriac, but it is often convenient to be able to lift a crop and prepare the ground for another crop.

PRUNING YOUNG PEACH TREES The first pruning given a young tree should be severe and practically all the branches should be cut back to about six inches from the main stem. This should result in two strong shoots being produced from each and summer pruning or disbudding should ensure that this is so. These in their turn should be cut back quite half way and any central branches cut back three parts. There may be a few flowers and fruit produced 011 these branches, but if not the following seasfln these should be cut back sufficiently hard to encourage lower buds to break. The peach and nectarine fruit on young wood and the aim should be to cut out old fruiting wood and to encourage healthy young wood to be produced below this fruiting wood, so that each year when the old wood is cut away the. young wood is low down the branches. Too often does the pruning consist in simply tipping this old wood, with the result that in a few years Ave have a tree with bare branches and all the fruit borne 011 the top of the tree subject to threshing by wind. ACANTHACEAE. This is a group of herbaceous plants or shrubs, chiefly natives of warm countries, and represented in our gardens by specics of thunbergia, ruellia, goldfussia, strobilanthes, acanthus, aphelandra, thrysacanthus, cvrtanthera, sericograpliis, justicia, eranthemum, libonia and others scarcely less beautiful. Nearly all the hard wooded species are easily propagated by inserting cuttings of the partially hardened young growth in heat, and owing to the creSt and branchless character of their growth, many species of justicia, aphelandra, thyrsac-, an thus, graptophyllum, etc., arc best struck afresh every autumn or spring, otherwise (lie plants pet leggy and unmanageable. Aphelandra aurantiaea, and its brilliant scarlet form, A. roezlii, are best propagated bv seeds or sown on a pan of light, sandy soil as soon as ripe, and placed 011 a genial heat. Seeds are freely produced by many species, and in order to facilitate their production artificial fertilisation is to be recommended. The Grecian and South European form of acanthus are remarkable for their glossy f.nd handsome foliage, and propagated either by seeds, root cuttings, or division. The pollen grains of some acantliads are very beautifully tubcrculate and look more like burnished nuggets of fine gold than seed under a high magnifier. GOOSEBERRY PRUNING. Young gooseberry bushes when received from the nursery consist of three or four main branches arising from the main stem or leg. When planted these branches should be cut back to about four buds, so that each branch will produce two laterals, giving six to eight laterals, which will form the framework of the bush. These laterals should be evenly distributed and evenly balanced to ensure a symmetrical bush. With older bushes laterals should be cut back to the two lower buds^leaving the main branches with fruit spurs at regular intervals. Such pruning will give a bush that is open, and the fruit can be picked more easily than when the laterals are left and a thicket of twiggy branches is the result. This system of pruning to form spurs may give the impression of a loss of crop,'but actually by weight it will give a heavier crop and does not impoverish the oushes through overcropping.

FROST-LIFTED BULBS MUST BE FIRMED. Ono of the results of a liard frost is that plants and. bulbs are lifted from the soil, in some instances to such an extent that tlieir roots are almost bared. Unless steps are taken without delay to put matters right these plants may become a dead loss. The trouble is particularly common among wallflowers and other spring bedding plants. Go round after frost and carefully press back into place every plant that has been lifted. This may also happen with newlyplanted bulbs, and the .bulbs that are forced up in this way cannot be pressed back. To attempt to do so would, mean

the tearing of many roots, and the bulbs would be seriously handicapped. The only tiling you can do is to lift the bulbs completely and replant them. This, however, does not often happen, except in light soils and with very heavy frosts. Cuttings rooting in the open garden are even greater sufferers from this frost lifting. Because they are small, the disturbance among the cuttings is not always noticed, and then there are many losses as a result. Recently planted herbaceous plants, roses and shrubs, are all liable to be lifted, and they should be examined after frost so that any necessary relirming may be done. Strange as it may seem, plants that arc disturbed in this manner actually dry out. The frost, of course, solidifies the moisture in the soil, and. causing an expansion, raises the soil around the roots and loaves them suspended or surrounded with free air, and as frosty nights arc usually followed by sunny days the result is drying out. TO CORRESPONDENTS. .T.P. (TT.mraki Plains) asl<s: (1) Would consolidated peat over heavy clay subsoil, fairly well drained, lie suitable for rose growing? f2) Would wood aslios and well rolled cow manure he beneficial? (3) Would you name some roses that do not object to open country, pent, and fairly severe frosts? (41 The names of some small, hardy, flowering and berried shrubs that can stand frost and like peat? (5) When to plant gladiolus eormels. (f») Could you give address of the secretary of the Gladiolus Society?—(l) Koscs can he grown on good firm peat soil, but it is the soil most unsuitable for them. The plants are not long lived, and do not get the firm wood so necessary for flowers. Of course there are different "peat" soils and where drainage, cultivation, cropping and grazing arc in progress the conditions become quite altered. (2) Yes. (3) All roses need open country, .and will stand all the frost you will get. The peat question is answered above. (4) The heaths, or ericas, rhododendrons and azaleas, kalmias, daboccia, pernettya, pieris, vaccinmn, eassiopc, polygala, magnolias. (. r >) July, August. (0) Mr. G. K. Gilliam,-New Lynn, Auckland, 5.W.4. R.H.W. (Balmoral) writes: (1) I have a lawn that has become overgrown and I have decided to dig it up and cultivate it. 1 have taken the grass and weeds away and have now commenced to dig up the old soil. The soil is light and there are plenty of small rocks. After raking over, will it matter if I leave the small rock in the soil? (2) Will it make any difference to the growth of the vegetables? (3) Will a dressing of lime on the soil be of any use while in a rough state? (4) Are the following suitable for light soil : Potatoes, peas, beans, onions, rhubarb, cabbage?—(l) No. (2) Xo. (3) I do not think that lime would be of great, benefit. A good complete manure; there are several proprietary mixtures offered which would be suitable to you. The grass and weeds should have been buried, not cart"d off. However, when they are partially decayed, you should dig them in, and also any other green refuse you can get, such as fallen leaves, etc. Also, if ground is not to be used for a few weeks, sow oats and dig them in when in- full leaf. (4) All are suitable. R.S. (Auckland) asks, re -gnavas: Trees were sprayed with Bordeaux when fruit was young ; note fruit and bark damaged. The scaling of the bark is not due to disease, but is natural. The fruit are rusty, and I think you would get a more successful control by using lime sulphur, X —l2o. Spray should bo applied as soon as recent crop is gathered, again when fruit lias just formed, and again three weeks later. All fallen leaves and fruit should lie collected and burnt and any branches within eighteen inches of the soil should lie cut off. lIF/DGK (Papntoetoo) asks which would lie the best time to sow seeds of Acacia Verftc'llnta. The position is warm," though exposed to the wind?— August or September.

divide pinks. Plants or edgings of pinks can be lifted and replanted. Put down the plants so that the leafy tops of the shoots are just out of the eoil. The clumps can be pulled to pieces and planted as practically every shoot will root if planted firmly.