DIVIDING DAHLIAS.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVI, Issue 266, 9 November 1935, Page 6 (Supplement)

DIVIDING DAHLIAS.

AN EASY METHOD,

The gardener who only requires one or two plants of a variety can get all the stock lie requires by division. The value of cuttings over division is probably cliicfiy due to the fact that cuttings take longer to coma into bloom and do not flower much, until after tne New Year, whilst tubers can be flowered nuite early in December. The dahlia is an autumn flower and whether it shall bloom in December or later is a matter for the cultivator. However, if the stool is to be broken up, one tuber and one shoot is sufficient to make a plant; even the lower half of the tuber can be cut away without any detriment. II the shoot is lon},' it can bo cut back to the lower pair of leaves. Lower buds will break away and this will also put back the flowering period. Plant so that the junction of shoot and tuber is hist below the ground level. The divisions can be potted up if so desired, but about Auckland this is not necessary, although it is so in colder districts where there is more chance ot late frosts. Place the central stake in position before planting and then plant at the side of the stake.

HINTS ON EXHIBITING.

There are many cultivators who can raise most creditable produce, but who are unable, through lack of skill in exhibiting, to make a good show of their material. Such failures could be avoided in large measure by a little forethought and attention to detail. In the case of cut flowers, the blooms should be prepared the day before the exhibition, and should be placed m water, in a cool place, for a few hours before packing. The flowers should be 'packed firmly, so as to prevent them from rubbing against one another. In selecting flowers for cutting, those which arc half opened should be taken rather than such as are fully developed. Cut roses are usually taken to an exhibition with their stems in water, but this is not essential, except, perhaps, in very hot weather, when they arc apt to open too fast if shut up in boxes. The experienced grower cuts young roses only, and on the morning of the day before the exhibition. Morning-cut roses have the early dew on them, and this stands them in good stead. Indeed, it is not advisable to cut any flower for show purposes late in the day; they do not keep nearly so fresh as those cut soon after sunrise. Many of these remarks apply also in the ease of vegetables. There is scope for far more effective arrangement of vegetables than is usually seen. Here, again, quality and freshness should be sought for rather than mere size. Beans especially are frequently much too large; cauliflowers, also, and nearly every kind of i root vegetable, are often chosen for this characteristic'. Any vegetables which are marked or marred in any way should be rejected, and colour should bo made a point of in every case. Root vegetables should be cleaned before the show with a brush, not a stiff scrubbing brush which will leave marks behind. Vegetables should be packed with quite as much care as fruits, especially cauliflowers, cucumbers and vegetable marrows. To come to the subject of cut flowers, the remark must be made that overcrowding is far too common. One often sees an exhibit of cut flowers i which is a perfect jumble of ill-nssorted colours; this is especially the case in a mixed collection of herbaceous and other plants. It would seem that exhibitors cannot resist the temptation of showing enormous quantities of blooms when mnking up groups; but, apart from any other consideration, it should be borne in mind that overcrowding in vases is a frequent cause of early fading. Wherever possible, the foliage of the flowers themselves should bo used. Rambler roses, for instance, look very well in long sprays with the addition of a few slender growth. The practice of "dressing" the flowers should never be resorted to. In arranging cut flowers in vases two. or three rows deep, the vases must bo carefully graded so that the backrow is not hidden. Sotno cut flowers (liltic, for instance) have a good deal of foliage attached to the wood. Some of this should be removed, otherwise the flowers will soon fade. The foliage may be used, but separately; that is, not attached to the blossom.

ADA AtTRANTIACA.

This showy South African species is among the most beautiful of spring flowering orchids when well grown, and if the necessary care and effort are employed to grow the plants into fine, healthy specimens. Cool house treatment is reeommendeS for this orchid! It likes a fair amount pi light, but should bo shaded from bright . sunshine from now onwards until late autumn. Any plant that has passed out of flower and is in need of new rooting materials may now be given attention, as new roots will soon bo pushing through from the last-made growths. A compost consisting of two-fifths of Osmunda fibre, twofifths of Sphagnum moss and one-fifth of loam fibre forms a good rootin"medium, with plenty of crushed crock's and charcoal added to keep the whole porous. Crock the pots well, for when in active growth A. aurantiaca likes plenty of water, but will not thrive in sour material/

VIOI«ETS.

Now is the time to make up new beds of violets. The best plants to put in are the young rooted offsets that will be found around the old plants. These if cut off can be lifted with some roots, and will soon come away. The old plants can be lifted and divided, but the result is not so good.