OUR PEWTER CRAFT. INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING A TRAY.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVI, Issue 76, 30 March 1935, Page 4 (Supplement)

OUR PEWTER CRAFT. INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING A TRAY.

ARTICLE v. This week we pass on to articles wrought in the metal alone, and not a combination of wood and pewter. Trays are perhaps the easiest to commence with, as they are fairly shallow and do not require so much "raising" as bowls, cups, vases, etc. Fig. 1 shows a few suitable forms. The first one is circular, and consequently is struck with the compass. First the size is settled upon, according to the purpose for which it is needed. It mdy be just a decorative plaque to adorn the wall, or a tray for ashes, cards, or other purposes. Having settled the size and struck ° ! the circle needed, upon paper, weproceed to estimate the width of the border. This depends partly upon the ultimate purpose for which it is required, and partly upon the taste of the designer. At any rate, it should be nicely balanced. In most satisfactory designs there is a dominant proportion, to which all others are subordinated. Here the centre or useful portion predominates.

Having settled the proportions,' we proceed to design tlie decoration. Here there are four repeats of a central flora! form flanked by two conventional leaves. The circle was divided by drawing two diameters crossing at right angles in the centre, and the design planned with one repeat in each quarter section of the border. Having drawn the design, we transfer it to the pewter by means of carbon paper. The metal must, of course, be thicker than that with which we have previously worked, as on this occasion it must be selfsupporting, there being no basis of wood or metal to strengthen it. When the pattern is transferred, it should be impressed upon the metal by means of a steel point, so that should the carbon get rubbed off during subsequent operations, the lines will still remain for our guidance.

The next step is known as "tracing," and this requires a little practice. The tracer is a steel tool shaped somewhat like a small chisel, but blunt instead of sharp-edged, and slightly wider at one end-of its edge than at the other. There is also a very slight rounding of the angle at the broader end. The taper which results is to allow the tool to. move forward with freedom, while the rounding is to facilitate its manipulation when turning curves or

angles. The tool is held in the left hand; first two fingers grip the tool, while the third rests partly upon the pewter and partly against the tool, serving a double purpose in guiding and steadying it in its course. The right hand holds a repousse hammer with which a series of rapid, uniform taps are administered to the head of the tool, driving it forward slowly aiul evenly upon its course. The tool is tilted backwards at a very slight angle, so that eacli blow of the hammer tends to drive it forward as well as tojmpress it into the pewter. The slight taper on the edge further assists. At sharp angles or curves the tool is tilted a little more in order that It may move easily round the bend. It is much wiser to practise upon a spare piece of pewter than to commence upon an important work without previous practice. During the tracing- process the metal should rest upon a sheet of linoleum, or other firm though

slightly yielding surface. A soft wood without pronounced grain is useful for this purpose, but a marked grain should be avoided, as it gives a very uneven line. When the pattern has been traced, it is necessary to sink the centre part of the tray, as indicated by the section of Fig. 1. For this purpose we shall need a mallet, a raising

hammer, a sandbag, and some suitable shaped stakes'. The sandbag, Fig. 2, is a flat circular bag formed of two discs of leather stitched together at the edges and tightly packed with sand. .This offers a smooth surface with the proper

amount of resistance, far more suitable tlian wood. Tlie metal is placed upon the leather and repeatedly struck with the hammer or roundended mallet (inside the border line). In order to secure an even depression, the blows should fall side by side in a uniform sequence upon a series of concentric circles. These circles should be struck with compass or dividers upon the metal before commencing to hammer. They will serve as <»uide lines during the raising process and snouiiT be strictly adhered to when distributing the blows. Care exercised at this stage will save much trouble during later ones, for once the shape loses its symmetry it is a very difficult matter to restore it. , The hammering stretches the metal and so forms the recessed hollow needed for the tray. The part, which js kept flat, is, of course, left untouched, as no stretching is needed. (Next week further instructions will be given for the finishing of your tray.)