SPRING BEDDING PLANTS.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVI, Issue 22, 26 January 1935, Page 6 (Supplement)

SPRING BEDDING PLANTS.

NECESSARY WORK. In the rush which is usually occasioned iiy bedding-out at tliis season, the propagation of spring (lowering subjects is rather apt to be neglected until it is too late to do justice to the matter, but actually a great deal may be done in quite a short time, and the holding-ill) for an hour or two of the summer-bed-ding operations will be more than compensated. Those who possess plants of the improved polyanthus and primroses should divide the clumps. The best plan is to split them up into pieces with a couple or three crowns, the whole ot the stock being arranged in a partly shaded position in a reserve plot. If possible, in addition to a liberal quantity ol' manure being incorporated during the process ol' digging, the plants should be mulched with the same material. Then, provided they receive attention in the matter of watering in times of drought, a splendid lot of plants will be available for autumn planting in beds and borders. Where, however, water is not in unlimited quantities, I find the best results are obtained by not lifting and dividing until the end of February, this applies most particularly to the Auckland district, where there is a continuous growth once the ground is moistened by autumn rains.

Both Alj'ssum citrinum and A. saxatile give us a great wealth of (lowers in spring. The best way to propagate these is by cuttings. Flenty of suitable growths can be found, all that is necessary being to tear them away gently, and to insert in boxes, which should be placed under handlights or in a frame. Immediately they have rooted, transfer them to nursery quarters. The same applies to arabis and aubretias.

The up-to-date large double daisies have almost completely ousted the oldfashioned sorts, being especially fine as earpetera to beds containing late-flower-ing tulips and wallflowers. But daisies deteriorate rapidly if left undisturbed. In order to maintain a vigorous stock, they should' be treated in the same way as polyanthus. Plenty of strong growths can be found around the outside of forget-me-nots. These, if inserted firmly in nursery rows, will soon revolve themselves into independent plants. All tlie above can lie produced quite easily from seeds. These if sown now will give nice plants that will flower well this coming spring. The seeds arc best sown in the open ground, and the beds shaded till seedlings are up. Early transplanting into nursery beds will give good plants for bedding out in autumn. MADONNA 1.1 LY.

The Madonna lily, or. to give it its correct name, Lilium eandidmn, is one of the plants always connected with "oldfashion" gardens. It does best if left alone and not transplanted more than necessary, in fact it seems to do best when the clump has got so thick that the bulbs are pushing one another out of the ground. Now is the time to lift

and replant if necessary, and the bullxs must not be planted deeply. It is usually said to plant two inches deep, but so long as the base of the bulb is in the soil it does not matter about the bulb. 1 f planted too deeply the damp I soil amongst the bulb scales seems to encourage disease. Well drained soil is necessary, and if there is any doubt, or the position is inclined to be wet plant 011 a slight mound, drawing some soil up to and around the bulb. A little leaf mould or rotted cow manure can be added to the soil, but as a rule it is better to leave out any strong manure as it may do more harm than good. POWDERY MILDEW OF THE CUCUMBER. No disease is so well known amongst pumpkins, cucumbers and allied plants as this. It first appears giving a whitish appearance to the leaf, eventually the leaves dry up and die off. Every year from January onwards there is a lot of inquiries in regard to this disease. As soon as the disease appears, usually in the form of spots, preventive measures should be taken. Do not be misled into thinking that the plants will out-grow it, because they will not, and unless you take measures to control the disease it will practically consume the plants. There are several good fungicides with which most people arc familiar. If it were possible to guarantee that every spore were wetted at the first spraying one could say that the first spraying was a cure, but as this is almost impossible no matter luw well the spraying is done, it is advisable to give a second spraying about a week later. If spraying is left til] foliage is in a very bad state, the worst of the leaves should be cut off and burnt. The spray is quite safe and may be applied during sunshine, but it is best to apply it during the afternoon as it does not dry so rapidly and has more time to be effective.

TRIMMING BROOMS AND HEATHS.

Brooms which have made an appreciable amount of growth should bi trimmed over after flowering in order to prevent legginess. The same applies to spring flowering heaths, such as Erica mediterranea, E. darleyensis and E. australis. In the case of Weigelas (or more properly Diervillas) little pruning is necessary, except for the thinning ot the shoots where they are too thick, but if the plants are growing too big they may lie cut back at this season. Rhododendrons likewise require 110 pruning lint pick off the old flower heads before tliey go to seed.

IN THE GREENHOUSE. f

No doubt a good many readers are now busy with their various seedling plants, with prioking-out, potting-up, or even potting-on the most forward specimens. The pricking oil of the seedlings of primulas, nieerarias, etc., is done best in shallow boxes. It does not answer to give the young plants too great a bulk of ■soil at (lie start—just enough to afford a good hold for the new roots to be made; then as soon as the soil is well permeated by the roots, the plants can go into their first pots. The boxes, or deep pans, arc a better method of getting seedlings along, because they keep the soil sufficiently and uniformly moist, whereas, in tiny pots it so easily dries out. Anyone who can give the required attention may find it an advantage to pot up the seedlings straight away. In any case, do not fail to give the little plants a larger pot as soon as needed. A point worthy of note is the fact that most of the seedlings like a moist atmosphere in preference to a wot soil. This moist atmosphere can be secured by overhead syringing, whether in frame or greenhouse. Overhead syringing or dewing is greatly appreciated by most plants, young or adult. In the case of the youngsters, the light spray falling upon the plants is far more beneficial than a heavy wetting. The spraying must be accompanied by plenty of air, but the plants should always be shaded from strong sunshine. A few items of work which can be done this week are the potting up of a few Nicotiana a (tin is in 4in or sin pots for flowering in autumn and winter; the sowing of seeds of schizanthus and mignonette for the same purpose; the sowing of a .few seeds of Statice Suwarowii in pots filled with a light, sandy soil. Shade from direct sunshine. GENTLEMFN, THE KING. (It was proposed lately at a meeting of the British Carnation Society that during 1935. Jubilee Year, all loyal subjects should wear carnations, which are the King's favourite flowers.) Now, all ye loyal citizens Who truly love our King, Would I'm sure, to show your love In every thing. Especially this year when, as You all are bound to know, His silver jubilee occurs, When we our joy must show. And it would be a grand idea If all of us who care About our King, carnations should On all occasions wear. To show that we, as loyal folks, Are glad to testify Our firm allegiance to our King To every passer-by. —Tobv.

CHRYSANTHEMUM HINTS.

With iffi extreme heat, this month is proving' to bo very trying for pot-grown chrysanthemums. The high temperature very often causes the production of buds that are too early to leave for the shows, while if removed and second crowns awaited, these latter often come too hit g to be of any use for showing. Early in the month reduce all the plants to three main stems, selecting such storms as are of nearly equal length. These should steadily increase in strength and vigour, but will not do so well unless they keep their foliage. Remember that the soil will dry. daily, and possibly require both morning and evening watering. A good nicotine insecticide is best, and may be depended upon to settle every kind of fly, green, black and brown, also red spider. Tobacco powder may also be used. Weakly-grown, unhealthy plants are best not given liquid manure, but instead add some fresh soil, work it in with a label, and make all very firm, finishing with a rammer. Healthy plants should be "fed" ;according to their character and the rate at which the soil demands it. Vary the feeding as much as jiossible. Do not keep on with just one kind of liquid or fertiliser. Weak soot-water, guano, and cow and sheep manure in weak solution are all available, and to frequently change from one to the other of these is much better than keeping 011 with one kind. Never, however, give liquid manure if the soil is quite dry. At the end of the month topdress with good, rich soil, containing about lib of artificial manure to the bushel. A good handful per plant should not be exceeded. Spread the dressing in a thin layer over the surface, and for a week give only pure water. Towards the end of January the first crown bilds begin to form, and the inexperienced grower may safely begin to "take" any that appear, the bud being left 011 the plant and the surrounding shoots and those produced below gradually removed at intervals, leaving the last shoot until the bud is well up 011 an inch or two of stem. With the advent of February, budtaking should be in full swing, when, in addition to the topdressing already advised, a little more feeding will be desirable. Take all buds as they appear after February 14. VALUE OF SOOT. Good soot owes its value to the presence of about 2 to 4 per cent of nitrogen, and is highly beneficial to onions, leeks, carrots, and other roots, as well as all the cabbage tribe. About six or seven pounds may be used to the rod. lt» should be stored in a dry place for a month on more before use, to lose any bad property it may contain. Care should be taken not to allow much of it to fall upon leaves, otherwise they may get burned.