FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LXV, Issue 147, 23 June 1934, Page 3 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES.

RETURN OF THE HOBBLE. NEW COLOUR COMBINATION. (By A PARIS EXPERT.) The early collections which were shown in the beginning of February in France certainly gave an indication of the general lines of gowns for the spring. But you will find that the Parisienne never makes a choice or orders her spring gowns before the end of March or the beginning of April. Her choice is generally made from the second collections of spring models; and I think that the big dressmaking houses will agree with me that the latter gowns which arc shown are more practical and simple, adaptations of the earlier models that we have seen, and in every way brought nearer to perfection.

The well-dressed Parisienne knows this, and is never tempted into buying a lot of clothes earlier in the season. New models will appear a little later 011 again for special events, such as the Grand Steeplechase at Autcuil, the Drugs at Auteuil, and the Grand Prix at Loiigcliamps. And then, again, for tho Plage at Biarritz and other smart watering places, and lastly, for the Lido, where the season lasts until the end of September. The Hobble Skirt Is Back. Tho hobble skirt is back. The day and evening models seen at the latest fashion showings have all tho hallmarks of the authentic pre-war article, including a deep slit at one side to enable the woman who wears it to walk with safety. The straight silhouette which results is certainly a change from the eternal moulded line, but whether women will put up with this onslaught 011 their freedom will depend on the mood they arc in when they see the new frocks. The general silhouette will not be very much altered, though. There will be a little bulk somewhere, but not necessarily 011 the shoulders. The whole arm will be of exaggerated proportions. Then the trim waist will be rather less exiguous, and the hips smaller, and per-

haps rather accentuated by slight draperies. Capes and gandauras will be uiuch to the fore.

Shoulders are no longer padded to look grotesque. Puffs, slashings, lapels, tucks and so on, are dropped to just below the shoulder, so that wliilo the aim is still to look as slim as possible at the hipline. This is achieved by more subtle means than in the firsh flush of the wide shoulder movement.

Matching Hat and Scarf Sets,

Women will remember the introduction last season of the set of small, perky hat and Ascot scarf to match. Very ,smart indeed, but ah, so expensive. This season Providence has seen fit to bring them out in less costly versions. They are to be had in the finest and shirest of wool; they are to be seen in velvet, in satin and in linen. The smartest have a small, crown hugging skull-cap, topped by a dashing bow, with a longish, square-ended scarf. In colours they run to sapphire blue, Chinese vermilion and bottle or jade green. Ties Parisiennes are crazy about, and they are wearing them with sports tilings a good deal. There will be no more men mannequins, not even the waxed gentle-

man that one sees in tbo windows on the boulevards. Why should not women adopt these scarves and ties for themselves? Styles have almost reached the point where you slap your uncle on the shoulder, and it turns out to be your aunt.

Many women spend hours before their mirrors, much to their husbands' annoyance, carefully arranging curls over their foreheads or upon their cheeks, dainty little shell-like curls which just peep out from beneath their hats. The latest tiling in hats which I have just seen will be welcomed by those men who have known what it is to be late their wives' curls.

The new type of liat is trimmed with a curl of lacquered hair, securely fastened under the brim and adjusted to rest upon tbo wearer's brow when the hat is in place, with exactly the same softening effect on the face that real hair would give. Those women who favour the Spanish type of curl on the chceks can equally well have curls arranged on each side of their hate, thus saving many moments otherwise spent twisting their hair into position every time they don their hats.

Startling Blondes. The stranger coming to Paris is first impressed with the startling blondes one meets on the boulevards and else-

where. The highly platmumed hair, its piercing silvery shade, flattering to youth and youth's complexion—is seen everywhere. Other shades, though, are prominent, but a blonde preponderance remains because this blonde shade seems to please more than any other. Hair is being cut collar length, and this facilitates the wearing of the hat of the moment. Tho truth is, that you see all kinds of cut and coiffure here, short and longish hair, half-curled heads, riotously curled heads, elaborate hair dressings and simple coiffures. The trend, plainly, is in keeping with a new demand for something original, different, unusual, yet belonging primarily to th° individual personality. So readers, if you wish to follow the smartest hair presentations as seen in Paris, do as they aim to do, create or have created for you, a style that is distinctly your own, and most flattering to your particular face and personality. Novelties. The favourite colour combination this season is yellow, green and black. Green crepe dresses go under black coats or vice versa, and the soft green velvet blouse adds the final touch to a swell black suit with a longish formal jacket.

Short-sleeved, cut down dresses, often in black crepe, are a favourite formula for the end of the day. And in the evening, embryonic trains and clinging skirts give us that siren line we all crave for. Women who really know how to dress are now ordering a corselet for nearly every costume, just as they would a slip.

The evening frocks that are made of dull silk and have long paii'il drapery are in the forefront of style. Tliey are so restful after the hectic ruffles of last season, and, incidentally, they indieate the way styles, are heading for in future seasons. The slinky, siren dresses of dark velvet or satin, with instep length skirts and transparent back bodices and sleeves, are the rage for "not-quite" eyening frocks in Paris.