Topics for Women

Auckland Star, Volume LXV, Issue 45, 22 February 1934, Page 13

Topics for Women

HOLLYWOOD IN PERSON. CREATING A MODEL. Adrian, the famous film fashion designer, says that his work isn't only a matter of inspiration, but includes lots of planning and hard work. The prevailing idea that fashions come into existence "full blown" and complete in every intricate detail is rather amusing, but far from true, as any designer knows, says Adrian. It isn't quite as easy as a*ll that. In creating fashions for the screen, I first find out the locale of the picture to be filmed. If it is a costume picture, the historical background of each costume must be accurate, and the modernisation of the idea made. If modern clothes are used, one must know where each costume will be worn, and the type of personality the star will portray. With this background in mind, one visualises the star in such settings. In modern fashions I get entirely away from current trends, for screen fashions must be designed so that they will bo many months in advance of the style, as the public won't see them for some three or four months after the picture is made.

First of all, I make pencil sketches of the costume idea. Perhaps only a silhouette —a body line upon which the frock will be developed. Then the details of neckline, sleeve treatment and trimming are drawn in, and the costume adapted as a whole. Careful Planning. I work this pencil sketch out in water colours in the exact tones in which tlio costume will be made, with colour contrast and all details as they will be in the finished costume. I often attach pieces of the fabrics, to be used so that the texture and colour of the materials may bo visualised easily. The star then sees the sketches of her wardrobe for the coming production and together we discuss each costume and make any minor changes decided upon. Now comes an important step in developing the fashion idea, so that we are certain it is correct for the player. Each frock designed is made upon muslin, with each detail carefully carried out, and the garment perfectly fitted to the star, who then comes to my studio wearing it. My studio is decorated in light tones of green, citron and white, so that the ' background will not overshadow tlie costume. Even the windows are shuttered , in white, with white glazed chintz curtains, so the colourings will be neutral. A spotlight is placed high above one door to floodlight tlie figure as the star moves before the full-length mirrors that line one entire wall of the room. This lighting gives the effect of light and shadow as it will appear on the costume 011 the screen. The player walks, turns and poses in the muslin frock so that we may study the costume lines from every angle. Adjustment of Line. Every line is fitted perfectly and adjusted to suit the wearer's body. Final alterations as to sleeve, neckline' or skirt are now made. Then, and only then, is the original design actually cut and made in the fabric and colourings that will appear on tlie screen. I am a stickler for really fine work and finishing in the creation of these designs. Hence we have a staff of experts in cutting and tailoring at the studio. Wo have exclusive fur workers, needlewomen of all kinds, and handembroiderers who do special bits in finishing these costumes for the screen. When the frock is finished it is ready for its final tryout, and the star wears' it with all the accessories selected and the final judgment is passed, which includes every detail of jewellery and also the coiffure that goes best with the costume. I believe that this meticulous detail is necessary to create fashions worthy to be shown to the millions who view them on the screen. ROUND TABLE CLUB. The Round Table Club gave a luncheon party yesterday in the reception hall of Miine and Chovce in honour of Mrs. M. M. Smith and Miss Elvira Slack, who are passengers on the Franconia. The president, Miss R. Tanner, extended to the two ladies a welcome to New Zealand, and also welcomed Miss Jean Stevenson, national general secretary of the Young Women's Christian Association, who arrived from Hamilton yesterday, and Miss E. Griffin, national general secretary of the association in Australia, who is spending a holiday in Auckland. Miss Slack gave a brief account of the places seen on the present cruise. - She said that from her friend Miss Jean Stevenson, she had heard a lot about New Zealand and was looking forward to seeing the Dominion's sights. Mrs. Smith, who had attended the School of International Studies at Geneva, also gave an address.

INDIAN WOMEN. IMPORTANCE OF EDUCATION. Two women wearing graceful saris attracted attention in Melbourne's streets recently. They ■were Mrs. M. L. Rallia Ram and her daughter, Miss Raj Mohini Rallia Ram. The mother was the first Punjabi woman to attend a university and to gain a degree, and her daughter is a recent graduate of the same university. They were on a pleasure trip to Australia, a voyage undertaken with the object of avoiding the cold winter in their Indian home! They live in the country, in the hills, at Gurdaspur, some 74 miles from Lahore, in the Punjab, and there Miss Ram plans when she returns to India to commence a kindergarten for the tiniest children of her town. She has obtained her bachelor of arts degree, and also has spent a year learning to be a teacher, paying as much attention as was possible to the study of kindergarten principles. She is hoping to go to England next year to do further study, and to visit the Montessori schools on the Continent. Her one regret about her visit

to Australia is that she did not know about the kindergarten training colleges, otherwise she might have made plans to spend some further time in the country. It was in the 'nineties that Mrs. Bam commenced her university course at Allahabad University, of which the Lucknow University, which her daughter attended, was then part. She owes her opportunity to her father, who was a keen advocate of higher education for women, lie, a member of an old Hindu family, became <*i convert to Christianity, and as a Christian lost his rights to his family's ancestral property. Because he could not leave his children wealth, lie determined that each one should have the best education possible to commence life. Indian girls, Miss Bam declares, are particularly keen on education, and an increasing number are attending the universities. Indeed, the Isabella Tliobun (so named after an American woman missionary) College for Women, to which she belonged, is quite the largest department of the Lucknow University. A feeling is developing that no girl's education can possibly be regarded a«3 complete unless she has taken her university degree. This despite the fact that there are at present but two careers open to Indian girls in India—teaching and medicine. Some few, but Very few non-Christian, girle take up nursing. Nor is marriage allowed to interfere with education —many a girl takes her degree after marriage, and some do not commence their university course until then. Indian men are anxious that their wives should bo educated women, and encourage the girls to attend the universities. All the lectures at the Lucknow University are given in English. Eng-, lisli is tho only possible language for such lectures, Miss Bam considers, in an India of so many languages, and she knows of but three universities where lectures are given in the vernacular. The language difficulty lias also, she said, rather handicapped' the development of wireless in India, while the Western music of the majority of stations only appeals to very few people.

ROYAL CHOICE. A COTTAGE PREFERRED. Love in a cottage is fashionable again nowadays, and even princesses in real life prefer it, for Prince Paul and Princess Olga of Yugoslavia are leaving their vast apartments in the royal palace in Belgrade to move into a little bungalow on the open heights of Dedigne, outside the capital. Princess Olga has found life in the big palace, shadowed by tall chestnut trees but unprotected from the street noises of the city, too formal and too little like "home" for her domestic inclinations. After much planning and exploration to find a suitable site, she is now having the little house of her heart built, with rooms about onetenth the size of those she now occupies. When Alexander, her nine-year-old son, comes back to Belgrade after the present term in his school in England, he will come to a wee house and play in a small garden with his brother, Prince Nicholas, instead of the vast grounds of the palace.