Practical Gardening

Auckland Star, Volume LXIV, Issue 261, 4 November 1933, Page 6 (Supplement)

Practical Gardening

RAISING AND GROWING PRIMULAS.

WINTER FLOWERING UNDER GLASS.

In many establishments the work of raising and growing primulas is regarded as a very important matter. The plants are useful for the embellishment of the greenhouse and conservatory. The flowering period is a fairly long one, and it is a fact that the plants may be successfully grown in a comparatively low temperature in winter time. In the summer it is generally recognised by cultivators who understand their requirements that the coolest position for them is best. As these plants do well in a low temperature, they need a long season of growth to form large specimens. Usually, two sowings should be made, one in October to provide early flowering plants in the autumn, and one in November —the main one —to provide plants for mid-winter and spring blooming. Sow in pans for preference, and not in boxes, as the compost remains in a more even state of moisture in the former than 'in the latter, and this is conducive to good germination. Fibrous loam, which has been cut at least four months, leaf-soil, well decayed, and sharp sand and old mortar rubble in equal proportions, will form a very suitable compost in which

to raise seedlings. Cover the seeds, which should be dropped evenly half an inch apart, lightly. When not buried enough with soil, the seedlings lift out and receive a check; when nicely covered, they retain their grip of the soil. Germination is nearly always very irregular, and, as, a consequence, the most advanced seedlings should be lifted as not to disturb those perhaps just breaking through the soil. Transplant the seedlings into other pans when they have made the first rough leaf. Let them stand about ljin apart. Later, or when the foliage begins to touch, they must be given their first shift into small pots. Primula seedlings arc rather ugly, or curious-looking objects, while in a very small slate. As they age and advance in growth, they become very nicely balanced in form and attractive to the eye. At each shift the plant should be put down deep enough to sit firmly on the soil and not left so that it wobbles about. In the event of this having been done, a topdressing of fine soil should be given so as to hold the plant firm. The most suitable summer quarters are cold frames facing south. A bed of ashes Sin deep should be put clown and watered and made firm while wet, for the plants to stand on. Shading is necessary if grown in a sunny position.

THE ONION.

In many gardens the onion bed is already planted, and the onions are well on the way. There are some, however, who, owing to pressure of other work or unavoidable circumstances; have not heen able to plant up a patch of onions and are probably wondering how to overcome the difficulty and ensure a supply of this important vegetable for the coming season. The alternative is to sow seed,, and although large-size bulbs may not be grown from seed sown about the present time, yet a very o-ood crop of good, useful size would be obtained. Small onions usually keep better than large ones, and as they can be grown more thickly on the ground, the actual weight of crop would not ho so much smaller. The ground for onions should be made very firm, a good rolling being the best method of consolidation. After rolling, the surface should be raked, to smooth it, and if any lumps are present they should be broken, either by another rolling or by treading. The drills should then be made about 12in apart, but he careful to keep them very shallow, just n scratch is all that is required. The seed should then be sown very thinly, for this spring-sown crop will mature where sown, and although some thinning will have to be done, | the less there is to pull out the better. After sowing give a dressing of superphosphate at the rate of 3oz to the square yard, and if available a good dressing of wood ashes. After having sown the seed and manure, rake the surface over to coyer the seed, and make a fine surface. With light soil and good weather, another rolling previous to raking will Ao bo harm. As soon as the seedlings appear tlrrough the soil the hard crust should be broken by gently hoeing between the drills. This will check weed growth, and as soon as the seedlings are large enough to- handle, thinning should take place. It may not be desirable to thin to the required distance at fir'sty merely thinning where the plants too thick, and making a second thinning when it is seen which plants are taking the. lead. Severe thinning for medium-sized; or keeping bulbs is not necessary, and ari average distance between the plants should be 4in to (fin.

ULAC.

The lilac is, alas, over, and bushes that have flowered need some attention. As far as possible, all dead flowers should be cut off now, and long shoots may be shortened a little. Lilacs begin to form their flowering shoots now, so that any pruning or cutting back that is to be* clone should take place at once. If the dead flowers arc left oii and the .bushes allowed to form seed, they will lie using up strength that should be devoted to forming next year's flowering shoots.

PLANTING FLOWER BEDS

At the present season of the year the work of forming and planting flower beds and borders occupies a good deal of attention in the majority ot" gardens, and although the initial details consist of properly hardening off the plants and preparing *the soil so that it is light and friable and in the host possible condition, the design and arrangement to be adopted iti filling the various beds should be considered and decided upon in good time, and not left until the actual planting out period arrives. Too many colours in one bed are, not desirable, and in cases where anything of a formal or regular shape or design is attempted, it is essential that accuracy ehould be observed, as nothing looks worse than ill-shaped squares, circles and other geometrical figures.

,*DiAWrHUSi

ROSE CUTTINGS AND LAYERS,

Those who took the trouble to insert cuttings of roses last autumn will now find that they are partly rooted and commencing to grow. As Boon as the roots aro fairly well developed the cuttings may be planted in their permanent quarters, where most of them will bloom during the forthcoming season. Select a dull day for lifting them, and lift so as to avoid breaking the roots as much as possible. After planting, and having made the Boil firm, give them a good watering. Some good blooms can often be obtained from these maiden plants. The Wichurian roses and many of the climbers can be layered now, and will be rooted and ready for transplanting in the autumn.

POTTING PLANTS.

HELPFUL HINTS.

Some plants are potted and some are simply put in a pot. Probably there is little but practice that will help anyone to do the work correctly, but at the same time there are a few helpful hints that car. tie given. Having prepared the pots by putting in the drainage, cover the crocks with a little coarse leafsoil, turf, or moss. Now put in a little compost, but do not pack it, and taking the plant to be potted place it on the compost. Sufficient should be put in so that the plant when stood on it is the correct level for finishing. Now put in more round the ball of the plant and press with the thumb, working round the ball of soil and adding soil as required. If there is not room for the lingers or thumb, use a thin stick. Whatever is used, there must be no cavities between the ball of soil and the pot. Continue until the soil is nearly level with the old ball. Now scatter soil on the surface so as to fill to within half an inch of the top. With the fingers of the two hands grasping the pot firmly and the two thumbs close to the stem or crown of the plant and pressing firmly on the old ball, lift the pot and give it a sharp tap, squarely on the base, on the bench. This will force the old and new soil tightly into the pot and should leave quito'a clear, flat, level surface threequarters of an inch below the rim of the pot. Do not fill the pot so full that watering is almost impossible. Do not put the plant down so low that there is a basin-like cavity with the plant in the centre, as it will often be the cause of the plant decaying from water lying in the centre. By grasping the pot with the fingers and using the thumbs as guides it is quite easy to keep the plant in the centre. Correctly potted, the plant should be in the centre, the soil slightly higher in the centre, and ample space left for watering.

B-EPTH TO SOW VEGETABLE SEEDS.

The illustration shows -the depth at which Konie of the principal vegetable seeds should he sown. A indicates lettuce and onion; B can-ot; C cabbage, canli-

flower, Brussels sprouts, savoy, broccoli, radish, turnip, parsley; D spinach and beet; E asparagus; F peas; G French beans or dwarf beans; II scarlet runners; I broad beans.

PLANTING CABBAGE.

Most people who liave room in the garden will within the next week or so be planting cabbage and cauliflowers. There arc different methods of planting, and the cabbage will grow under adverse conditions. The crop that is planted now will in all probability have hot, dry weather to contend with, and if a little difference in planting will help them to get over that period without difficulty, then it is preferable to the ordinary one.

The best method is to draw a drill three or four inches deep with a hoe, and to plant in this drill. Later on, when the plants have grown and require earthing up, to give more soil for the stems to root into, and also to keep the heads steady, the advantages of the method of planting in a drill is obvious, for it allows a little water to be put just where it will do most good; it also allows the application of manure similarly, and later on, when the plants have made good headway, the soil can be drawn right up to the leaves, keeping the plants perfectly rigid, and adding fresh soil for them to root into, while this loose soil acts as a mulching to conserve the moisture.

DECORATIVE RUNNER BEANS.

The popular runner bean is not only one of the most productive of all our autumn vegetables, but the fact that there are other uses to which a row may be put entitles it to more than ordinary consideration. For one thing, it will provide one of the cheapest, yet most ornamental screens that could be wished for. Every variety is ornamental, but where a specially bright decorative effect is desired it is .important to sow seeds of several varieties, or of one variety bearing flowers of more than one colour. Such a one is the old Painted Lady, which bears a tremendous crop of red and white blossoms that rarely fail to set well and develop into fair-sized pods. Ke Pine Ultra can be recommended as a very continuous llowerer. It is not only ornamental) but very useful. The old white Dutch, or Case Knife, looks well mixed with Best of All. or the old scarlet runner, both of which come into tlower early and continue to bloom until destroyed by frost.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN POTS

AN IDEAL COMPOST. One of the most important items connected with growing chrysanthemums in pots is the preparation of the soil used in the final potting. Everything in the future is ruled by the condition of the roots, and a perfectly balanced compost is therefore absolutely necessary if success is to be obtained. It is quite possible that after the best materials available are got together the mixture by no means fulfils the anticipations of the grower. When preparing a compost, two things must be borne in mind —first, that the plants have to live in it for five months, and so it must contain a good store of foodstuffs; second, the young plants will not require this immediately, so it must be given In some form not readily available. A perfect compost is made up of turfy loam, leafmoukl, manure, wood ashes, old mortar, sand, and artificial manure. The best loam is that of a heavy, retentive nature, yet riot exactly clayey, a poor sandy soil lacks solidity. Turfy loam is obtained by cutting the turf from an old pasture and stacking it long enough for the grass sod to decay, but not long enough for the root fibres to rot. In cutting the turf, take the top four inches of soil. It is ready for use as .soon as it can be easily pulled to pieces, this being the best way to prepare it for potting; in any case do not put it through a sieve, as this means taking out a lot of the dead fibre, which is one of the most valuable parts. The leafmoukl should bo in a flakey condition, not absolutely decomposed. Wood ashes, from the refuse fire, should-be kept dry and not allowed to get wet and form a plaster-like mass. Old mortar rubbish should be smashed to pieces about the size of peas. This should be lime mortar, not cement. Bonedust should also be added, but any further artificial manures are best left till later on when feeding becomes necessary. Having collected the various materials, make the mixture as follows: Loam 8 parts, leafmould 4 parts, ashes 1 part, old, mortar 1 part, sand 1 part, bonedust lib to the bushel of compost. The whole should be thoroughly mixed and turned over four times, with at least a 24-hour interval between each turning. Cover the compost or protect from rain and if left for a day or so it will be found to have gently heated in the same way as a. hotbed. There are exceptions, and in many eases the actual components will not be obtainable, but that should not stop anyone from trying, and good sub- ! stitutes can be obtained.

ROSE SHOW.

The annual rose show of the Auckland Horticultural Society is to take place in the Town Hall on November 9 and 10. The weather conditions so far have been all that can be desired, for although a little colder and the flowers a little later than usual, there is every promise that for once tlie show has caught the popular ros2 at its best. Those "who contemplate showing should disbud severely. Disbudded flowers are fuller, do not open prematurely, and last longer. Watering has not been necessaiy, and if the beds were well treated during the late winter and spring, there has not been necessity for much liquid feeding. For later shows this will need attention. New classes, especially one for a miniature rock garden, 4ft by 3ft, are quite a new break, and should find a number of new enthusiasts. Plants can be in pots or otherwise. A trophy prize for six vases of cut flowers and another for six roses sboukl give the small grower every chance. The average garden is quite large enough to grow sufficient plants to produce good quality stuff to carry off these trophies providing the "will to win" is there. The "decorated mantelpiece" in class 01 is altered to "decorated sideboard," sft by 2ft, apparently a good, wide sideboard, seeing that the decorated tables are 4ft by 3ft. The exhibitor should note that the flowers in this class should face one way only, as a sideboard must be against a wall. A light but not too flimsy arrangement, with the blooms not so high that it is necessary to stand on a chair or stretch one's neck to get a good view of the tallest ones, and facing towards the front, are hints worth noting. The show will certainly be worthy of a visit by everybody, whether gardeners or not. It is a civic duty to support the show, and to guarantee its success should be the aim of everyone.

Fino varieties of these should be marked when in bloom for the purposes of saving seed or increasing the plants by division as soon as they pass out of bloom. The work of raising young plants from choice varieties is not only interesting but gives rise to new and improved forms and colours that greatly enrich the collection: